[xozxro]

Hey guys,

First post here. This issue is on a 2008 E92 328i, built in April.

In the last week I've been doing a lot of work on my car, but have now gotten to a point where I'm stumped and can't drive it out here in the winter conditions with the new parts as I can't get my driver side window up. I've done a ton of research and have a few questions to try and diagnose the issue. In the last week, I have disconnected and reconnected my batter a multitude of times, which I believe was also going bad prior to this. Have been charging it for the last night to make sure, and will get a new one shortly, but I read that reconnecting the battery over and over alone can fry your FRM. So looking for someone to look through all of the symptoms and tell me what they think / what I should do / test next. Don't want to order a ton of new parts and trial and error it if I don't have to.

The symptoms
Driver window will not go up with convenient closing (key), or window switch.
Window went down with the key and the switch while the problem was occurring, so the motor must be intact? Ended up all the way down and is now stuck there. However, while rolling it down in increments, it would not go up whenever I tried. Rolled it down completely to try and do the window reset procedure.
Passenger window works fine - with both driver and passenger switches, and comfort closing/opening.
A clicking comes from under the steering wheel, on the side where the FRM is located when trying to roll it up with convenient closing. All other convenient opening / closing functions work (passenger window, mirrors, sunroof).
Clicking coming from motor when pushing the window switch downwards (assuming this is normal but thought it would be worth mentioning, maybe it means the motor isn't dead?).
All other FRM functions seem to be working fine, and it is not showing any other signs of failure.
No clicking or signs of any movement within the motor when trying to roll it up, so I believe the problem is the 'signal' is simply not getting to the motor, considering the fact that it went down and it makes a clicking when trying to make it go down more.

I've tried
Checking the fuse
Making sure the window is on the rails
Resetting the window and anti-trap systems

My questions
Could someone link me to a resource that goes over providing power to the motor directly? Or at least send the wiring diagram? Haven't found anything with some light research. I have the motor out so the connector is easily accessible and can be connected to with external wires. Ideally would just like to get it mostly up so the car is driveable comfortably until the problem is resolved. Also need to park it in the outside lot of an apartment complex and would not like anyone or the weather getting inside. I assume this will be the best course of action from here in trying to diagnose the problem.
The clicking coming from the FRM? Is there a relay or something that may need to be replaced? Can't seem to find anything on a clicking coming from the footwell module alongside this particular issue. If I can't diagnose/fix from this post, I will order a cable for my laptop to do a full diagnostic and test the FRM input and outputs.
Is there a way to disable the anti-trap system temporarily? Have tried resetting and didn't work. Could it cause this situation?

The whole situation is very frustrating as I need to get my window up before moving to the apartment complex. Any help is greatly appreciated, and please let me know if there's anything I missed information-wise, or if you have any questions. I'll be around trying to figure this out until it's fixed. Thanks all.

[West Texas]

I’m having a similar challenge with my 2009 128i coupe. My left window will go up but won’t go down. I’ve replaced the motor with no luck. I will have my scan tool available later today and will post if that reveals a fix.

My solution to making car drivable while I diagnose is to remove motor, being careful that cable spool doesn’t come out of regulator pull window up to 1/4” from closed (so it doesn’t contact roof while using door) then reinstalling motor but not window switch. I temporarily reconnect switch to adjust mirrors.

I will keep searching for switch pin out diagram. Any ideas are much appreciated.

[xozxro]

Originally Posted by West Texas

I’m having a similar challenge with my 2009 128i coupe. My left window will go up but won’t go down. I’ve replaced the motor with no luck. I will have my scan tool available later today and will post if that reveals a fix.

My solution to making car drivable while I diagnose is to remove motor, being careful that cable spool doesn’t come out of regulator pull window up to 1/4” from closed (so it doesn’t contact roof while using door) then reinstalling motor but not window switch. I temporarily reconnect switch to adjust mirrors.

I will keep searching for switch pin out diagram. Any ideas are much appreciated.

That's a good idea. Was trying to figure out how I could deal with the resistance on the window that's keeping it down, so I could pull it up. I have the motor out, what else do I need to remove to make it work?

Also, do you get the same clicking noise coming from around the footwell module?

Edit: Figured out what you were talking about, got my window up thanks to it. Think the best course of action from here is testing the motor and getting a cable to run diagnostics on the FRM.

[West Texas]

Originally Posted by xozxro

That's a good idea. Was trying to figure out how I could deal with the resistance on the window that's keeping it down, so I could pull it up. I have the motor out, what else do I need to remove to make it work?

Also, do you get the same clicking noise coming from around the footwell module?

Edit: Figured out what you were talking about, got my window up thanks to it. Think the best course of action from here is testing the motor and getting a cable to run diagnostics on the FRM.

Glad my tip helped you get your window closed.

Yes, I get a click from the footwell when activating the switch. There is a small light on the headlight switch that responds to the window switch also. I get some odd behavior after disconnect/reconnect battery while trying to reset limits but still no luck on normal operation.

I have no window error codes either (so I assume the FRM is OK). I am going to reinstall the new to me junkyard window motor with battery disconnected and see if I can reset limits.

I suppose my next step is to buy a window switch.

I do have adaptive headlight error though. Could that be FRM? I need to spend more time searching.

[West Texas]

My son brought out his programming tools and planned to reset the FRM. What he learned was that the battery was operating at about 12v and even with a charger was not coming up. By using the charger and running the car, everything came back to life, adaptive headlights and windows. I should have suspected a bad battery from the weirdness going on. I thought I learned that lesson with my Volvos.

Next step, replace the battery. I will post results from replacing it ASAP.

[West Texas]

Installed new battery 2 days ago, windows worked for a short period then quit. Tested charging system and found bad voltage regulator. Will post results of new regulator.

[Falbe_C]

did you ever fix the problem?

[treishu]

the issue is with the frm 100%

i have exactly the same problem with one frm
with another frm the window is working perfectly