[yue0707]

Hey all,

I had stopped a total front driveshaft failure and removed the driveshaft. I have replacement coming in mail. Removed it, was told you can ride RWD kind of for a temporary time if Driveshaft is removed. However, when riding around like a mile to 7/11 i noticed that the front output flange was clattering, It was kind of loose and would slide back and forth which I think is normal. But these are not normal circumstances XD.

I tried the fuses thing I haven't removed both the 30A DTC and 30A TC/Actuator. But I did remove F20 and the 30A TC/Actuator and uh, lots of weird stuff happened so I noped that and reverted. I have a Pre-LCI 07 so what's on forums for one model isn't what it is for me thats for sure.

Um if I remove that which looks easy to do with a prybar, what would happen? It would seem that would for sure at some point come out of its place and I wouldn't want that. First setup with AWD so I haven't much experience other than changing TC clutch fluid out. Don't know if there is a seal on the flange or what.


Thanks

[carguy138]

There is a small rounded spring on the end of the stub shaft just past the splines. It doesn't do much to retain the stub shaft in.

If you pull the stub shaft out it will drain the transfer case oil.

I'm in similar boat since I'd like to run the car 100% RWD (wavetrac diff on the way) but can't find much info on how to seal up the transfer case if the stub shaft is removed.

I have driven around without a driveshaft for the better part of a year with no issues but after further research, I don't think it would be safe to track the car without the stubshaft being secured.

FYI AWD everything works great, I just like it more as RWD. Personal preference.

EDIT. I do have Xdelete flashed.

[E92_William]

Idk why you'd remove the mounting flange for the front driveshaft at the tcase when converting your car to full rwd because that flange will not turn or at least not with any good force or speed at all due to the way the transfer case works internally when in rwd mode. I believe the best way to convert the car to rwd for cheap is to pull the fuse that sends power to the transfer case computer. On my car what this does is have the car with full dsc and abs while not having awd. You will have the round triangle warning light on the dash but shouldn't have a dsc or abs one at all. It will work like a factory rwd bmw.

However keep in mind I don't have a front driveshaft or axles in the front.

[carguy138]

Originally Posted by E92_William

Idk why you'd remove the mounting flange for the front driveshaft at the tcase when converting your car to full rwd because that flange will not turn or at least not with any good force or speed at all due to the way the transfer case works internally when in rwd mode. I believe the best way to convert the car to rwd for cheap is to pull the fuse that sends power to the transfer case computer. On my car what this does is have the car with full dsc and abs while not having awd. You will have the round triangle warning light on the dash but shouldn't have a dsc or abs one at all. It will work like a factory rwd bmw.

However keep in mind I don't have a front driveshaft or axles in the front.

The t-case stub shaft is friction fit to the t-case splines. Yes, there is a round wire spring clip on the stub shaft just past the splines that sits in a groove that partially expands to provide a minor amount of retention. All it takes is a large flat head screw driver to pry out the stub shaft.

like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/293732013102

Also considering how the t-case functions... Even with the clutch in the t-case fully open (it's a wet plate clutch similar to a motorcycle clutch basket) there is enough drag to spin the front wheels if the entire vehicle is off the ground. This means that with the driveshaft removed, the stub shaft will be spinning quite quickly.

The concern would be if you hit a curb or bump hard enough (like on a race track) that the stub shaft could pop out. Having a several pound chunk of metal (the stub shaft) flying out on track and subsequently draining all of the t-case oil would be no beuno.

Likely no, but possible-yes.

Believe me I want to make this work as I have no need for AWD. The whole stub shaft retaining thing sketches me out a bit.

Open to any and all ideas though!




EDIT: from xDelete's FAQ page

Can I remove the drive shafts from the car?

xDelete is meant to be used with an intact drive train, as xDelete opens the clutches inside the transfer case, so no torque is sent to the front wheels.

The VTG (transfercase controller) still communicates the with the other modules in the car and would throw error codes, when the drive shafts would be missing for example.

The VTG’s internal oil pump gets driven by the cardan-shaft from the differential to the VTG. Without it, this oil pump no longer pumps oil through the transfer case, which would make the VTG oil overheat and then coke coke, ruining the transfer case.