[Simbl]

Got a 4 wheel alignment and that camber looks a bit rubbish to me.

I added a front brace and noticed there's loads of camber adjustment left of the top mounts.

Should I just max it out? Or get it re aligned.

It's a 330i e92 se not what is on the alignment report.

[stilesg57]

Just to make sure I'm reading this correctly: is that -1.4* L and -0.6* R initially in front, aligned to -0.5* L and -0.4* R?

If that's the case, I'd absolutely be pushing for more front camber out of plates if I had them. Personally I'd max out both the plates, then dial the one with more camber back until it matches the one less. But either way you should be closer to -2* than zero.

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by stilesg57

Just to make sure I'm reading this correctly: is that -1.4* L and -0.6* R initially in front, aligned to -0.5* L and -0.4* R?

If that's the case, I'd absolutely be pushing for more front camber out of plates if I had them. Personally I'd max out both the plates, then dial the one with more camber back until it matches the one less. But either way you should be closer to -2* than zero.

-1.4 to -0.6 is bmw tolerance on their machine.

Camber was unchanged so the figure in red is what it is. I think they won't adjust top mounts as the pins need removing.

I'm going to get m3 arms at some point to get more camber. But until then is there any harm in just roughing it by setting them to the max on the strut tops. Or will mess up my other alignment specs / tyre wear.

[stilesg57]

Ahhh gotcha, I thought you meant you had aftermarket camber plates but it sounds like you just mean the stock top hats where you have to pull/grind/drill the alignment pin to move them.

I would wait until you get the M3 arms then when you get it aligned for those pull the pins and go for as much camber as you can. Trying to eyeball it now will leave you with unpredictable alignment figures, likely hurt handling/steering precision, and almost certainly increase tire wear.

[72GMC]

The reason it looks like rubbish is because the official camber range is indeed rubbish.
They engineered the car to understeer: very little front camber, significant rear camber.

If you're tracking or autocrossing, you will need -2.5 to -3.5 front camber. It will also save the outside edges of your tires. But if you do mostly commuting & highway, that amount of camber will kill the inside edges.

[chris82]

If you simply max the camber without a proper alignment then the toe will go out of spec and you'll need another alignment.

[Simbl]

Thank you guys for your help. However…

I did the camber adjustment by pulling the pins and got it re aligned. Maxed out the right front didn't seem to get much camber so I opted for a little more symmetry for camber. I have now ordered the front M3 Arms and will get more camber added then.

I wasn't happy with the initial alignment and asked the mechanic to get it as best he could. At this point they had taken the car of the rack and had to put it on again.

Issue:
Front toe and camber changed significantly from it being adjusted the first time and the diagnosis reading the second time after I asked them to do it again.

The toe when from +0.05 to +0.16
The camber-0.55 to -1.08

Does this suggest the bushings are worn and need replacing because it appears the front left won't hold camber or toe.

I'm not having the exact same issue on the rear however the alignment should not be out after 2 months. So can I assume some rear bushings are needing replacement too?

I was going to get the compatible m3 rear arms and replace the toe arm too. Do I need new eccentric bolts?

The lower camber arm bushing needs to be pressed in which is a far bigger job so I was going to leave that for now.


Thoughts? Alignment photos attached

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by 72GMC

The reason it looks like rubbish is because the official camber range is indeed rubbish.
They engineered the car to understeer: very little front camber, significant rear camber.

If you're tracking or autocrossing, you will need -2.5 to -3.5 front camber. It will also save the outside edges of your tires. But if you do mostly commuting & highway, that amount of camber will kill the inside edges.

It's my DD so I was going to go for -1 to -1.3

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by chris82

If you simply max the camber without a proper alignment then the toe will go out of spec and you'll need another alignment.

It good you told me this because I wasn't going to get an alignment.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Simbl

It good you told me this because I wasn't going to get an alignment.

Well this here:

Issue:
Front toe and camber changed significantly from it being adjusted the first time and the diagnosis reading the second time after I asked them to do it again.

I'd assume that's because you pulled the pins?

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by chris82

Well this here:

Issue:
Front toe and camber changed significantly from it being adjusted the first time and the diagnosis reading the second time after I asked them to do it again.

I'd assume that's because you pulled the pins?

Hi Chris,

It's a bit confusing I've had 3 alignments now. I did explain that we'll.

-Initial alignment February (1st thread post)
-Pulled pins
-Aligned again 15th April (photo 1st Alignment)
-Car parked in car park
-Aligned again same day 15th April. 5 minutes later. (Photo 2nd Alignment) as I wasn't happy with the alignment.

Toe and camber change on the same day alignments.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Simbl

-Aligned again same day 15th April. 5 minutes later. (Photo 2nd Alignment) as I wasn't happy with the alignment.

Toe and camber change on the same day alignments.

You can get the car up and down the alignment rack ten times in one day, don’t do any adjustment, and will have ten different readings. It will depend on the quality of the machine, your car and of course the technician doing the setup. Anyhow, now of this means that the car won’t be aligned properly. This is why we have tolerances.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by feuer

You can get the car up and down the alignment rack ten times in one day, don’t do any adjustment, and will have ten different readings. It will depend on the quality of the machine, your car and of course the technician doing the setup. Anyhow, now of this means that the car won’t be aligned properly. This is why we have tolerances.

A lot comes down to the technician. Put it in the hands of someone who knows their stuff, they'll get you a good alignment with minimal info from you. If you have to tell someone how to align your car, you're at the wrong place imo.

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by chris82

A lot comes down to the technician. Put it in the hands of someone who knows their stuff, they'll get you a good alignment with minimal info from you. If you have to tell someone how to align your car, you're at the wrong place imo.

Understood, I'm going to try somewhere a little more high end next time.

I'm going to replace the eccentric bolt nuts for precaution anyway as I've seen some reports of them coming loose.