[autoAER]

Hi, I have an E93 328i that has been throwing a 2A94 code for a crankshaft sensor. I ordered a genuine Continental replacement, and reassembled everything. Now here is the weird part- whenever i try to clear the code, the car starts running badly and has long cranks whenever starting. Yesterday, I unplugged the battery and let it sit for a while, and after i reconnected everything, the car started running perfectly! Now, today, I was driving it, and the same exact crankshaft sensor code came up again (without any misfires or poor running!), and the transmission stayed in limp mode on the drive back home. The only code it currently shows is 2A94 Crankshaft sensor, signal and the DTC and ABS faults from the limp mode.

Does anyone have any idea what could possibly be wrong?? I attached pictures of the dash and what comes up on the iDrive screen:

Thanks so much in advance!

[tofu?]

autoAER

Hey, were you ever able to resolve this? I'm having the same exact issue and replacing the sensor didn't fix it.

[autoAER]

Originally Posted by tofu?

autoAER

Hey, were you ever able to resolve this? I'm having the same exact issue and replacing the sensor didn't fix it.

DM’d you!

[taringalio]

Im having the exact same issue, could you please tell me if you find the solution?

[bmwbob89]

Originally Posted by autoAER

DM’d you!

Please share your fix. That's what the forums are all about.

[autoAER]

Originally Posted by bmwbob89

Please share your fix. That's what the forums are all about.

Previous poster sent me a private message, but the problem is usually a defective sensor. When I replaced the sensor the first time, it threw the same codes, I tried everything until I thought maybe the new sensor is defective, so I contacted the seller and had it replaced it with another; the car started up perfectly with the replacement

[tofu?]

Just want to follow up on this, too.

Replaced the replacement sensor. Car has been working great for over a month now.

[autoAER]

Originally Posted by tofu?

Just want to follow up on this, too.

Replaced the replacement sensor. Car has been working great for over a month now.

Thanks for updating!

For everyone else a short TL;DR:

If your car has symptoms of “shuddering” on acceleration, rough shifting (automatic transmission cars), misfires at idle, loss of power, the series of dash lights as seen above, and throwing codes for crankshaft sensor, your problem is most likely the crankshaft position sensor that sits underneath the intake manifold.

If you replace this sensor, and the problems persist, then your problem is most likely a defective replacement sensor.

I’ve heard of multiple people who aren’t familiar with these cars getting scammed by mechanics who claim the fault is from the transmission and recommend replacing the transmission. Don’t fall for this!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by autoAER

... I contacted the seller and had it replaced it with another; the car started up perfectly with the replacement

Originally Posted by tofu?

Just want to follow up on this, too. Replaced the replacement sensor. Car has been working great for over a month now.

WHERE are you guys getting BOGUS Part$?? Maybe it's time to "OUT" the Sellers of Bogus Parts? Or at least give Forum Members a "Heads-up".

Were either of you able to replace the sensor WITHOUT removing the Intake Manifold? IF so, could you describe your Procedure? Accessed from BENEATH? Details?
George

[autoAER]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

WHERE are you guys getting BOGUS Part$?? Maybe it's time to "OUT" the Sellers of Bogus Parts? Or at least give Forum Members a "Heads-up".

Were either of you able to replace the sensor WITHOUT removing the Intake Manifold? IF so, could you describe your Procedure? Accessed from BENEATH? Details?
George

Hi there,

I purchased the continental sensor from Amazon the first time, supposedly guaranteed to be authentic, and it was sealed in a genuine continental box. The first one they sent me did not work correctly; the second one did. They were exactly the same price, looked identical, and had exactly the same part number.

I’m not sure you can remove the sensor without removing the intake manifold as it is located on the lower half of the engine block. I tried to remove it without taking off the manifold, but found it easier to just remove the manifold. I would assume that if your hands and arm are small enough, or if you’re handy with extensions, you might be able to reach it; however, due to the sensor and connector both being plastic, I would not recommend trying it due to the risk of breaking the plastic or worse breaking the plastic and then not being able to remove it.

The process is rather simple once the intake manifold is removed; the sensor just pulls out.