[witty]

Here are 3 logs:

https://datazap.me/u/tochez/93?log=0&data=3-20
https://datazap.me/u/tochez/3rd?log=0&data=3-20
https://datazap.me/u/tochez/new-3rd?log=0&data=3-20

For some reason, my boost holds, then falls flat as soon as I get above 5000-5500 RPM, although when I'm going faster (4th gear log) my boost dropped 3 psi. I don't have any vacuum leaks, and I've tightened everything. Although I haven't done a boost leak, I don't feel like it's a boost leak though. I don't know how to test boost leak correctly, if anyone knows it would be great.

Mods on the car

injen intake
vrsf catless downpipe
7inch intercooler
ams intercooler pipes

(not the car in the siggy)

[iqraceworks]

I think that's the nature of the beast with the small OEM turbos. I'm assuming your turbos are stock? Mine did the same thing before I went with RB TWO turbos.....now it pulls up past 7k and holds boost with no issues.

These motors just run out of steam with the OEM turbos at around 5500rpms...

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

Here are 3 logs:

https://datazap.me/u/tochez/93?log=0&data=3-20
https://datazap.me/u/tochez/3rd?log=0&data=3-20
https://datazap.me/u/tochez/new-3rd?log=0&data=3-20

For some reason, my boost holds, then falls flat as soon as I get above 5000-5500 RPM, although when I'm going faster (4th gear log) my boost dropped 3 psi. I don't have any vacuum leaks, and I've tightened everything. Although I haven't done a boost leak, I don't feel like it's a boost leak though. I don't know how to test boost leak correctly, if anyone knows it would be great.

Mods on the car

injen intake
vrsf catless downpipe
7inch intercooler
ams intercooler pipes

(not the car in the siggy)

You either have a boost leak or your waste gates are not sealing properly.
Your turbos can make up for the leak at low rpm's but they can't compete in the higher rpm's. You will see how high your waste gate duty cycle is during higher rpm's. They are working way to hard to meet target but still not reaching it.

Do a boost leak test.
I would also experiment with another map just to make sure.
I used v10 stage 2+ 93 for months but ended up going back to 7. My car runs way better on 7 vs 10.
9 is not bad too.

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

You either have a boost leak or your waste gates are not sealing properly.
Your turbos can make up for the leak at low rpm's but they can't compete in the higher rpm's. You will see how high your waste gate duty cycle is during higher rpm's. They are working way to hard to meet target but still not reaching it.

Do a boost leak test.
I would also experiment with another map just to make sure.
I used v10 stage 2+ 93 for months but ended up going back to 7. My car runs way better on 7 vs 10.
9 is not bad too.

just did a boost leak test at 20psi. nowhere was leaking when i sprayed soap water. my wastegates should be fine, i don't have any wastegate rattle or anything. I'm really stumped atm

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

just did a boost leak test at 20psi. nowhere was leaking when i sprayed soap water. my wastegates should be fine, i don't have any wastegate rattle or anything. I'm really stumped atm

Try another map to make sure it's not tune related. Try 7 or 9

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Try another map to make sure it's not tune related. Try 7 or 9

I saw air coming out of my tial, but is that enough for my psi to drop that much or my wdgc to be so high? I will try a different map version tmrw and see how it goes.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

I saw air coming out of my tial, but is that enough for my psi to drop that much or my wdgc to be so high? I will try a different map version tmrw and see how it goes.

Yes that would be the problem then. It should be sealed when doing a pull.
Do you have the correct spring and vacuum hose size to it?

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Yes that would be the problem then. It should be sealed when doing a pull.
Do you have the correct spring and vacuum hose size to it?

the tial is sealed, just the clamp around it I'm guessing isn't sealing correctly. I have a 11 psi spring and i have a 3.5mm vaccum line on it.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

the tial is sealed, just the clamp around it I'm guessing isn't sealing correctly. I have a 11 psi spring and i have a 3.5mm vaccum line on it.

Oh ok.
And fyi you can't use a 3.5 with a tail. It's not enough vacuum to operate it correctly. You also can't use it off the factory intake nipple.
BMS sells a kit that add the correct valve off the throttle bottle with the correct size hose.

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Oh ok.
And fyi you can't use a 3.5 with a tail. It's not enough vacuum to operate it correctly. You also can't use it off the factory intake nipple.
BMS sells a kit that add the correct valve off the throttle bottle with the correct size hose.

I see, I have to upsize the hose correct? I figure that's what I had to do (and get a new fitting for the TB.). I will try to do all these things and will update the thread about it.
Another question, for log number 1, 4th gear log, do you know why it was able to hit 15psi at the end compared to the 13-12.9 with 3rd gear.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

just did a boost leak test at 20psi. nowhere was leaking when i sprayed soap water. my wastegates should be fine, i don't have any wastegate rattle or anything. I'm really stumped atm

Have you tried Smoke Testing?

[witty]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

Have you tried Smoke Testing?

I've smoke test the vac lines, but not the car because tbh, I don't know how to smoke the boost leak. I have a smoke tester, but it doesnt output more then a couple psi.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

I see, I have to upsize the hose correct? I figure that's what I had to do (and get a new fitting for the TB.). I will try to do all these things and will update the thread about it.

Need to use a 1/4 inch hose with those. Here is the easiest kit.
Not saying this will solve your boost issues but you should be using this either way.

https://burgertuning.com/collections...vacuum-adapter

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

I've smoke test the vac lines, but not the car because tbh, I don't know how to smoke the boost leak. I have a smoke tester, but it doesnt output more then a couple psi.

There should be quite a few how to videos on YouTube,

This is a useful detailed guide for Boost leak testing,

https://blog.protuningfreaks.com/201...k-testing-diy/

[witty]

Originally Posted by Saif2018

There should be quite a few how to videos on YouTube,

This is a useful detailed guide for Boost leak testing,

https://blog.protuningfreaks.com/201...k-testing-diy/

I see what the smoke thing is, but It doesn't apply enough pressure. I'm also not getting any 30ff code about boost leak. I did the normal boost leak test with the air compressor, and nowhere is leaking other than the bov that I am trying to fix at the moment, I'll try to do another boost leak once I get the new one. The only other place i am leaking air is the inlet but it makes sense since its not suppose to to be proof.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

I see what the smoke thing is, but It doesn't apply enough pressure. I'm also not getting any 30ff code about boost leak. I did the normal boost leak test with the air compressor, and nowhere is leaking other than the bov that I am trying to fix at the moment, I'll try to do another boost leak once I get the new one. The only other place i am leaking air is the inlet but it makes sense since its not suppose to to be proof.

30FF code only comes up when there is a large enough boost leak, small boost leaks don't really cause limp mode,

Stock turbos run out of steam by about 5500rpm, so don't expect much more than 16psi towards the top of rev range.

After sorting your bov out, If your sure you don't have any boost leaks, then your WG is probably leaking, not remaining closed throughout the pull (worst case)

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

I see what the smoke thing is, but It doesn't apply enough pressure. I'm also not getting any 30ff code about boost leak. I did the normal boost leak test with the air compressor, and nowhere is leaking other than the bov that I am trying to fix at the moment, I'll try to do another boost leak once I get the new one. The only other place i am leaking air is the inlet but it makes sense since its not suppose to to be proof.

I think just your bov is your issue and then you should be good.
Come to think of it, V7 (maybe 9 as well) both taper boost towards redline since the turbos run out of steam and this will help preserve the life of them also.
V10 keeps boost target Steady all the way till redline. So those logs are going to look like you're dropping boost compared to other maps. This map I found too aggressive for a daily and did not pair that well with my xhp settings.

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

I think just your bov is your issue and then you should be good.
Come to think of it, V7 (maybe 9 as well) both taper boost towards redline since the turbos run out of steam and this will help preserve the life of them also.
V10 keeps boost target Steady all the way till redline. So those logs are going to look like you're dropping boost compared to other maps. This map I found too aggressive for a daily and did not pair that well with my xhp settings.

This kinda does make sense, my turbos have been producing a lot of smoke since ive used v10 for a couple of months now. Who knows maybe turbos are dying again, prob witll do t19s like my other build

[witty]

UPDATE

AFTER new BOV,
Issue still occurs, after 5k rpm my wgdc shoots up to around 80

https://datazap.me/u/tochez/3-and-4t...1&data=3-20-28
(2 runs in there click on the change log icon, One 3rd and one 4th)

both 3rd and 4th gear both quit out basically around 5k rpm, which makes me think that its turbos, but Ive seen other people with oem turbos be able to keep their psi up after 5k rpm without inlets.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

UPDATE

AFTER new BOV,
Issue still occurs, after 5k rpm my wgdc shoots up to around 80

https://datazap.me/u/tochez/3-and-4t...8;data=3-20-28
(2 runs in there click on the change log icon, One 3rd and one 4th)

both 3rd and 4th gear both quit out basically around 5k rpm, which makes me think that its turbos, but Ive seen other people with oem turbos be able to keep their psi up after 5k rpm without inlets.

I think you need to switch maps. Go back to 9 or 7 that tapers before redline. Your car will be happier rather than working overtime to meet the parameters. It's normal for them to loose steam around 5k. Yours might look a little worse if they are getting tired. Try 7 or 9 and report back
3rd gear logs are best.

[witty]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

I think you need to switch maps. Go back to 9 or 7 that tapers before redline. Your car will be happier rather than working overtime to meet the parameters. It's normal for them to loose steam around 5k. Yours might look a little worse if they are getting tired. Try 7 or 9 and report back
3rd gear logs are best.

will do, ill go back to 9. Question though, Ive seen other people's logs with OEM turbos and they boost all the way till redline with around 65 wdgc. Does this mean that the turbos are failing? I'm jus confused about how others are able to reach 16 psi at redline, but I can barely meet 13 psi with really high wdgc (80%)

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by sliver 335

will do, ill go back to 9. Question though, Ive seen other people's logs with OEM turbos and they boost all the way till redline with around 65 wdgc. Does this mean that the turbos are failing? I'm jus confused about how others are able to reach 16 psi at redline, but I can barely meet 13 psi with really high wdgc (80%)

If they are smoking then yes they could be failing. You make boost lower down which to me says waste gates are ok.
Do you get any whining or a slight police siren noise from the turbos?
It's good to make sure this is not tune related but it does seem they are getting tired up high.