[Dave92N54]

Well, just changed my oil today. Definitely appears like the drain for my front turbo is leaking. Looks like it’s the gasket.

It looks like I might be able to move the rack out of the way and pop the bolts out and swap the gasket. Does anyone have any experience with this? Or do you think i’ll need to move the water pump to thermostat hose?

[TyroneShoelaces]

I recently rebuilt my turbos and have the front one weeping. Either the supply or drain but it's disappointing to have to figure out how to remedy. I was looking at moving the rack out of the way as well and hopefully being able to get this done.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by TerminatorStout

I am pretty sure you are going to WANT to take off the horseshoe hose at the minimum.

Are you sure its not coming from a different source?

edit to add more context:

as far as I know those don't really leak unless you have swapped turbos at some point

from many years of experience I used to try to do things the "fast" way. When you get paid by the job instead of an hourly rate, you try to get a lot of jobs done fast. (not really a great industry practice IMO). I often times would do something like this, and spend 20-30 minutes trying to wriggle my way in there and change the gasket, when I finally realized it took 3 minutes to take off the hose and then 5 minutes to change the gasket. I am not in anyway implying you are trying to do it the fast way, just saying take off whatever will make it easier, you will be glad you did.

I replaced my turbos about a year ago now, Nov. 2021 to be exact. I know the engine layout pretty well, so i’m almost positive it’s the turbo drain but I guess could be the feed I just find that unlikely with where the oil was collecting and flowing. I’ve already ordered a new drain gasket. I had been hoping it would be a valve cover but looking and feeling from up top was completely dry, and no oil was collected on the tray for the boost solenoids.

Looking up at it yesterday it definitely looks like removing that hose would be easier but i’d like to avoid dumping coolant (as it would be easier to not use the last of my on-hand coolant and bleed it afterwards if I can avoid it) if I can so I will probably try to do so without removing it first. I’m almost positive if I slide the rack forward like for a DP install I could fit a 1/4” ratchet and a torx bit up there and pop the bolts out for the drain, not like they’re overly tight and reinstall is as simple as clean, one bolt + gasket, second bolt, done.

Probably a stupid question on my part, but a little unsure. I know the turbos obviously drain once the car is off, but I don’t believe that they drain completely so i’ll likely lose some oil when removing the drain hose, correct? I have enough to top off, but my main question is, do I address this as soon as the gasket arrives? or do I wait 3000 mi for my next oil change? My biggest concern isn’t losing oil as I lost maybe 1 qt over 4400 miles, but rather the oil catching fire on the exhaust.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by TerminatorStout

It is definitely possible then.

There should be a minimal amount of oil that comes out.

It's going to be tough if you don't want to drain the coolant. I understand it's stupid expensive. Also if you do drain the coolant be careful with the radiator pet cock / drain. It can not seal again or break, and then new radiator. I would just pull a pipe and drain instead.

The only other thing I can think of would be to unbolt the water pump and try to move it forward but that is going to be a job in itself - removing fan, etc. and its very hard to get to pump bolts without pulling hoses anyway, so I don't know if that is viable.

A tip that I can give if people are having a problem leaking from this drain is to remove the hose completely (you will need to replace the gasket properly) and inspect hose or replace. The bottom connections is hard to wiggle out of the oil pain without removing the top one first, so top then bottom. I would suggest checking to see if the connection is like my drawing below.

Yeah, i’m very familiar with the water pump. I have done mine 4 times now..

All of my turbo feed/drain are new (well, as old as the turbos so a year old). I’m fairly confident as long as I can remove the bolts from the turbo I can remove the gasket and get a new one in place. I appreciate the tips though. Guess we’ll see how this goes haha. Gasket should be here today or tomorrow. Will have to get the car up probably friday night or sometime around then.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by TerminatorStout

edited the whole thing:

I completely forgot, this is with engine on stand for no oil loss. You are going to need to drain the oil, with the engine in the car.

I apologize, quickly replying while doing other things. IF you can manage to get the top line free (to where you can install gasket properly) without removing the bottom then you may have minimal loss as mentioned above.

The engine sits at too much of an angle while in the car if you DO remove bottom drain line. without draining the oil, it will literally POUR out of the bottom line/hole. It will even pour some after you drain the oil . again my apologies for the miss info there.

If I was you I would remove the Whole hose so that you can check that mating surface with a flat edge. Sometimes it helps to even bend the "ears" (part where holes are) up a little bit so they have to flex forward before bottoming out making the inner portion seal tighter.

If you are on a budget, make sure the drain bolt is very clean, and use a very clean drain pan and you can re-use your oil temporary. I don't recommend that, but it would be absolutely fine if you are on a budget and the oil is relatively new.

Nah, price isn’t an issue on changing the oil. Just unfortunate as I JUST changed it, like, less than 100miles on the current oil.

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by TerminatorStout

If I was you I would remove the Whole hose so that you can check that mating surface with a flat edge. Sometimes it helps to even bend the "ears" (part where holes are) up a little bit so they have to flex forward before bottoming out making the inner portion seal tighter.

I'm a little confused on this statement, the flange on these hoses is THICK I cannot imagine anyway to bend the ears up a little.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Dave92N54

I'm a little confused on this statement, the flange on these hoses is THICK I cannot imagine anyway to bend the ears up a little.

Thick and soft and easy to bent. Same with lines on oil cooler housing. People are overzealous, don’t use proper tools, bent them and and up with leaks. However, oil and coolant lines around turbos usually get damaged during dismount.

[Dave92N54]

Well, I figured i’d update you all.

It can in fact be done.

Here is what I did:
(Remember when referring to passenger/driver side this is a LHD vehicle, so if RHD it would be reversed, probably wouldn’t be able to do this with the steering column in the way anyway)

Unbolted the rack on both sides.
Unbolted the swaybar from the subframe and swung it down.
Slid rack forward like for a water pump install.
I then tried to reach a T30 up to each of the bolts on the drain line and cracked them loose, just to make sure I could before draining the oil.

In order to reach the bolt towards the passenger side, I just went straight up with a 1/4” ratchet, an extension, and a T30 on the end, with a swivel extension at the end of the extension.

To reach the bolt towards the block, I unplugged the water pump and slid the same 1/4” ratchet setup between the U of the horseshoe shaped coolant hose, and loosened that bolt.

Drained the oil. Reinstalled drain plug, installed new oil filter.

I then fully removed both bolts, and slid the gasket out of place. I then used a blue shop towel to clean the turbo surface and drain line, and then another shop towel soaked in brake clean.

I then reached up and placed the gasket in place, and slid the bolt towards the passenger side into place and threaded it about 2-3 threads.

Then I placed the bolt towards the block on the T30 bit and reached it into place, first making sure the gasket was oriented correctly and then I threaded that in until it was flush (not snug or tight at all).

I then tightened the opposite bolt and torqued. Then I went back to the bolt towards the block and did the same.

Reassembled everything and idled it on jackstands for awhile while checking for leaks. I didn’t see any, so put the car down and went to romp on it to give it some oil pressure.

Did a few pulls, drove around maybe 30-45 minutes. Came back, jacked it back up and took a peak. I didn’t see any oil like before, so for now i’m considering it good. I did continue to occasionally smell some oil through my vents but i’m currently treating that as old oil continuing to burn off. I will be getting back under the car in about a week to verify no leak again. If it’s continuing to leak I will likely be pulling the subframe and going at the feed line.

[Dave92N54]

Well all, seems to still be leaking.

I’m guessing it’s the feed, but near impossible to see.

Any recommendations for getting to the feed? I mean it’s just an o-ring, as long as I can pop the line out of the turbo and swap it i’m good. Don’t need much room.

I was thinking I might be able to get to it by removing the coolant reservoir and the outlets?


Looking at a diagram, i’ll have to pop the coolant feed out too in order to reach it. Still beats pulling the subframe and WP and everything else imo