[s5s]

Hi all,

I experienced some issues with my e90. The most obvious issue is that when warm (after driving for 20 min or so) the car finds it harder to start - the engine revs around 100-200 for 1-2s and sounds like a bag of hammers but if I keep holding the power button for an extra 1-2s it eventually jumps to 500-600 RPM and starts and runs OK. When cold, as soon as I press the power button, revs jump to 1000, then drop to ~500 and stay there for 2-3s (the car is a bit shaky) then jump to ~600 and the shaking stops and the engine sounds smoother.

Yesterday, I'd been driving for 40min and I rev-ed it past 6k (I was in 3rd, doing maybe 60mph) and large half-full engine light came on. I couldn't stop so kept driving for 3-4 miles then small check engine light came on. When I stopped at a traffic light, the car would die - it wouldn't idle. It would start right back up though. After another 3-4 miles of driving, I parked, popped the bonnet (hood) and the engine sounded like a bag of hammers and was shaky. It felt to me like at least one cylinder was not working which would cause the engine to lose balance and this will explain the shaking. I checked the OBD codes - engine misfire in cylinder 3. Anyway, after I parked, I switched the car off for maybe 1 min. I started it back up - check engine light was gone, engine ran smoothly, reved it to 8K nothing happened. On my drive back, after 5-10 min of driving, in 2nd gear, I reved it to 7-8k and it was fine. I took the motorway - drove for ~ 1h without any issues. I didn't rev it past 4-5k on the motorway because it was dark and busy and I didn't deem it safe if I have sudden loss of power and a need to stop.

I'm not too bothered about this - it's a car. I'd like to fix this because it can potentially cause a crash if I have loss of power at the wrong moment. I'd like to learn in the process and share my experience here for others - this site has helped me quite a bit!

I am trying to iron out the issues starting from the most obvious - the NOx sensor. It's most obvious because I've got fault codes for this one. Below are all the codes using an ODB + bimmer link.

• 2EAE: 0x2EAE message from nitric oxide sensor 1 is missing
• 2A2C: 0x2A2C mixture control 2
• 30DC: 0x30DC nitrogen oxide sensor, heating
• 29E1: 0x29E1 mixture control 2
• 2A2B: 0x2A2B mixture control

I read here that the mixture control could be due to the E10 fuel I put in. I'm putting only premium fuel from now on.

I'm looking to buy a new NOx sensor but I'm a bit unsure about the following:

1. How many NOx sensors does the e90 330i have? AFAIK, there's only one, after the catalytic converter. Is there another one before it?
2. How do I find the part number for this car? I'm really struggling with this one because if I search online for "BMW e90 NOx Sensor" I get different part numbers from different websites such as Autodoc.co.uk which check the part number given my registration.

I'm really not sure that the NOx sensor is causing this behaviour. However, it seems to happen only when the car is warm and I know the sensors are often not operational when the car is cold so it could be it. I have fault codes too so I might as well fix this going forward.

I'll also change the crankshaft position sensor because I read on here that this behaviour (change of performance when warm) could be caused by this sensor not working and it appears it doesn't throw error codes (which I find strange).

[Marlo]

N53 only have 1 nox sensor.
Part nr: 11787587129

You have to reset adaptations with ISTA after replacing the sensor.

Bimmerprofs have an alternative: noxem 129, but I've seen mixed reviews about it.

I don't recommend buying anything other than original sensor from BMW or noxem.

[s5s]

Originally Posted by Marlo325

N53 only have 1 nox sensor.
Part nr: 11787587129

You have to reset adaptations with ISTA after replacing the sensor.

Bimmerprofs have an alternative: noxem 129, but I've seen mixed reviews about it.

I don't recommend buying anything other than original sensor from BMW or noxem.

Thanks a lot for the reply. I'm not touching Chinese produce. It's the most ridiculous idea - buy a German car, put a no-name Chinese part on it.

Got a few questions:

1. What about part number 11787587130? I cannot understand if I need 11787587129 or 11787587130.
2. Can I reset the adaptations via beamer code or will I need an ISTA?
3. I read on a thread a vague comment about keeping the PCB (electronics board) but replacing the sensor that bolts on with a Bosch lambda sensor. Is this a thing worth doing?
4. Given the error codes, do you think it's worth pulling the sensor out and cleaning it?

[Marlo]

1. It looks like 11787587129 is for n53 and 11787587130 is for n43.

2. I don't have any experience with beamer code, but I highly doubt it's able to reset only nox. I know BG protool can reset all engine adaptations, but it can't reset only nox. You need ISTA for that.

3. Personally I would replace the whole thing, never researched this option

4. Nox sensors are known for failing, I never heard about anyone having success with cleaning it. If you want to try, the torque when reusing nox sensor is 66 nm, new nox sensor torque is 52nm. Based on your symptoms and codes, I suspect you have injector issues. Nox failure is often related to leaking injectors/misfires.

[s5s]

You don't think its the NOx sensor? The message "0x2EAE message from nitric oxide sensor 1 is missing" suggests to me that the electronics are not sending a signal?

It could be leaky injectors - they also have a symptom of hard starting when the engine is warm. Can I replace just one injector, or do I need to replace all 6? Is it worth pouring a can of B44 or GDI injector cleaner before I replace them or are these additives useless?

[Marlo]

I'm sorry if it wasn't clear; I think it's both.

Also I think it's a great idea that youre going to stop using e10. I personally only used shell v power in my n53's. I've been driving n53's 7 years now, and they have all (I owned 3, only 1 atm) been running smoothly and been reliable to me with almost 0 issues. Only 1 injector right after I got my first one, and 1 nox sensor. A little luck maybe but I'm convinced they prefer premium fuel. My nox fault was also electric btw.

[s5s]

Do you know the part number for the injectors is for 2010 330i N53 engine? I found the number 13537589048 but I'm not very certain I am right. Is there an easy way to tell if I need index-11 or index-12?

I pulled the ignition coils today, need a tool for the plugs. Changed the oil. I'll was last changed in October around 3-5k miles ago. Oil was black but that is usual. It definitely had lubrication properties and wasn't watery.

Image:



https://ibb.co/MVrqjZF

[Marlo]

Your part nr is correct.
Only way to tell if it's index 11 or 12 AFAIK is to look at the actual injector.

[s5s]

Mine are all index 7. If I pull the injectors out for inspection, can I just put them back in (same cylinders)? Would the pulling out 😏 precipitate more work to get them back in (e.g. coding, replacing teflon seals). I know that for new injectors I'll need to code with ISTA and I also know that the seal of each of the old injectors moulds to the particular cylinder so I can't swap injectors around. I just don't know if pulling the current ones and putting them back in causes problems.

[Marlo]

You have to replace decouplers and sealing rings before reinstalling used injectors. No coding needed, just make sure to reinstall each injector in its original location.

[s5s]

Would I need to replace them if I just take the old ones out and put them back in?

[Marlo]

Yeah it doesn't matter if you remove them for 5 seconds or 5 hours, you have to do it anyway after removal.

[s5s]

@Marlo325, I replaced the nox sensor with a new genuine part. The previous owner had put in some Chinese fakery. I connected to the car via ista+ and coded in the new nox sensor and reset the adaptations. I don't know if it was the sensor working or the resetting of adaptations but the car became slower at low speeds (good). In other words, when I changed the NOX sensor, the car started riding differently which I believe is it going from always in performance mode to running in stratified mode which makes it a bit slower/less responsive which I like.

I replaced the NOx sensor + cleared adaptations 2 weeks ago, cleared the error via ISTA+ and via a OBD2 scanner. Today, the error is still there:

0x30DC nitrogen oxide sensor, heating

Not sure what to make of this.

The full list of errors is:

30DC: 0x30DC nitrogen oxide sensor, heating
29E1: 0x29E1 mixture control 2
29F4: 0x29F4 catalyst conversion
2A2C: 0x2A2C mixture control 2
2A2B: 0x2A2B mixture control

The mixture control could be oxygen sensors. Some people say to ignore them and I'm not bothered by this atm.

[fqlynx]

Is anything simple with the E90?

I'm now unsure what to do with my N43.

Replace with a RIDEX NOX sensor, spend more than double that for an original that may still result in the same errors, or go for NOXEM.

Does anyone have any experience with the RIDEX NOX sensor, I mean it's from Germany, apparently.

[aupshon]

Originally Posted by fqlynx

Is anything simple with the E90?

I'm now unsure what to do with my N43.

Replace with a RIDEX NOX sensor, spend more than double that for an original that may still result in the same errors, or go for NOXEM.

Does anyone have any experience with the RIDEX NOX sensor, I mean it's from Germany, apparently.

I am not sure about using other brands when it comes to expensive parts unless it is OE without the BMW logo.

A fail safe seems to be the NoxEm as that will keep stratified mode operational and limit codes without other risks but I am in a similar positions diagnosing my N53.

[aupshon]

Originally Posted by s5s

Hi all,

I experienced some issues with my e90. The most obvious issue is that when warm (after driving for 20 min or so) the car finds it harder to start - the engine revs around 100-200 for 1-2s and sounds like a bag of hammers but if I keep holding the power button for an extra 1-2s it eventually jumps to 500-600 RPM and starts and runs OK. When cold, as soon as I press the power button, revs jump to 1000, then drop to ~500 and stay there for 2-3s (the car is a bit shaky) then jump to ~600 and the shaking stops and the engine sounds smoother.

Yesterday, I'd been driving for 40min and I rev-ed it past 6k (I was in 3rd, doing maybe 60mph) and large half-full engine light came on. I couldn't stop so kept driving for 3-4 miles then small check engine light came on. When I stopped at a traffic light, the car would die - it wouldn't idle. It would start right back up though. After another 3-4 miles of driving, I parked, popped the bonnet (hood) and the engine sounded like a bag of hammers and was shaky. It felt to me like at least one cylinder was not working which would cause the engine to lose balance and this will explain the shaking. I checked the OBD codes - engine misfire in cylinder 3. Anyway, after I parked, I switched the car off for maybe 1 min. I started it back up - check engine light was gone, engine ran smoothly, reved it to 8K nothing happened. On my drive back, after 5-10 min of driving, in 2nd gear, I reved it to 7-8k and it was fine. I took the motorway - drove for ~ 1h without any issues. I didn't rev it past 4-5k on the motorway because it was dark and busy and I didn't deem it safe if I have sudden loss of power and a need to stop.

I'm not too bothered about this - it's a car. I'd like to fix this because it can potentially cause a crash if I have loss of power at the wrong moment. I'd like to learn in the process and share my experience here for others - this site has helped me quite a bit!

I am trying to iron out the issues starting from the most obvious - the NOx sensor. It's most obvious because I've got fault codes for this one. Below are all the codes using an ODB + bimmer link.

• 2EAE: 0x2EAE message from nitric oxide sensor 1 is missing
• 2A2C: 0x2A2C mixture control 2
• 30DC: 0x30DC nitrogen oxide sensor, heating
• 29E1: 0x29E1 mixture control 2
• 2A2B: 0x2A2B mixture control

I read here that the mixture control could be due to the E10 fuel I put in. I'm putting only premium fuel from now on.

I'm looking to buy a new NOx sensor but I'm a bit unsure about the following:

1. How many NOx sensors does the e90 330i have? AFAIK, there's only one, after the catalytic converter. Is there another one before it?
2. How do I find the part number for this car? I'm really struggling with this one because if I search online for "BMW e90 NOx Sensor" I get different part numbers from different websites such as Autodoc.co.uk which check the part number given my registration.

I'm really not sure that the NOx sensor is causing this behaviour. However, it seems to happen only when the car is warm and I know the sensors are often not operational when the car is cold so it could be it. I have fault codes too so I might as well fix this going forward.

I'll also change the crankshaft position sensor because I read on here that this behaviour (change of performance when warm) could be caused by this sensor not working and it appears it doesn't throw error codes (which I find strange).

I am doing a similar diagnosis. Take a look at bimmerprofs website they have a lot of free info.

Given you had a misfire code you could have a coil/plug/injector issue. Check that cylinder. I have a similar issue like you but do not ever get misfiire codes.

Long cranking can be a possibly symptom of HPFP, you can check on INPA if it maintains 200bar when revving flat up to 6k RPM. Bimmerprofs link to this.

I recently added an injector cleaner and got the mixture code so that could be a red herring for you, keep to using 99 octane/premium fuel.

Does your car hesitate randomly if you accelerate gently with constant throttle?

From what I've read the Nox sensor should not cause any issues with the performance of the car, you should get potentially bad gas mileage but that's about it.

Also if your injectors are bad you run the risk of ruining the sensor (not sure if Noxem behaves this way). So you risk replacing 400 quid sensor then to have to replace 150 quid each injectors and then the sensor again.

I am trying to find concrete info as my car has the same issues however it never performs, i just get the hard jolt and half check engine light with nox codes.