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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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2012 e92 n55 electrical issue
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12-30-2023, 01:23 AM | #1 |
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2012 e92 n55 electrical issue
Hi im having and issue with my car that I can’t seem to figure out. i got into my car in the morning to go to work and there was the red car on a lift symbol. once i started the car, the dash started lighting up not flickering but each symbol would turn on and off or change to a different color the speedometer and everything would go up and down (ill attach some pictures) and my infotainment system was also going haywire.(on/off, traction control,dbc, other sensors and error codes would come up,I have no clue as to what could have caused this the night before the car was perfectly fine and had no issues I really appreciate the help thank you!
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12-30-2023, 05:31 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2006 BMW 330i MT
Join Date: Dec 2021
Location: SoCal
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Garage List 2006 BMW 330i [8.45]
2009 BMW 328i Touri ... [8.00] 2013 BMW X5 35i [7.80] 2011 BMW 528i [8.70] 2006 Mazda3 [5.50] |
Probably battery, but could be alternator. Or anything in between the two.
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tjsingh231.50 |
01-24-2024, 10:54 AM | #3 |
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i went to advanced auto parts and hsd them check my battery/alternator
turns out its the battery thank you StradaRedlands but i noticed that my fan was also turning on and off the employee said that even tho its the battery it shouldnt be doing that, car runs completely fine no overheating everything seems to be fine other than my electronics could it be something worse or just another symptom of a weak battery |
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StradaRedlands6540.00 |
01-24-2024, 12:17 PM | #5 |
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Hoody007 i see, and in order to register it would i have to go to bmw for that? I recall seeing something that u arent able to register aftermarket batterys unless its from bmw or something along the lines of that
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01-24-2024, 01:06 PM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
So you are relying on "Random Advance Auto Employee" to diagnose your issue? How did he "test your battery"? What was its Voltage? Measured WHERE? Did he "Load Test" your battery? Have you ever had Starter NOT Crank when START button pressed? Did he test Alternator? How? What was voltage with engine running? Is Battery "Distended" or "bulging"? Is there battery acid in battery well? Do YOU have a cheap Multimeter? $7 HFT; $10 Amazon: https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-59434.html https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-As...zcF9tdGY&psc=1 If you want to $ave money, learn something, prevent "Throwing Part$", and get CORRECT Diagnosis of your issue, I would suggest the following BEFORE you spend money on anything else: 1) Get/ Borrow/ Steal a DMM (Digital Multimeter) for $10 or less; 2) Measure/REPORT Battery Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the Hood; 3) Examine the battery well for any liquid/ acid, and examine the battery for any bulging on sides; 4) Start Engine; measure/REPORT system voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals under hood with engine running; 5) Get Fault Codes read in ALL Modules, or at least the DSC (Dynamic Stability Control), KOMBI (Instrument Cluster), and DME (Engine Control Module), and REPORT ALL codes here. If you CAN, ALSO get "Freeze Frame Data" (snapshot of system conditions such as Voltage at moment fault code saved) read, and report any "System Voltage" or KL87/Terminal 87 Voltage value. Most Advance Auto, AutoZone, or other large parts retailers will read fault codes FREE. We need those codes, at LEAST for KOMBI, DSC & DME. "Over-Voltage", or System Voltage > 16.0V with engine running, scrambles bus communications. The KOMBI Module display receives ALL (except outside Temp) its data via Bus System, as opposed to "hard-wire". So when it has a "Light Show", the FIRST thing to check is for System Voltage with engine running. You need to do that ASAP, as Over-voltage can damage Electronic Modules and ruin your Battery. Your KOMBI/ Instrument Cluster is malfunctioning, with "Light Show" of random Warning Lights, & lack of Odometer & Trip Indicator readings in Lower Display, all at ~ 700 RPM. You also have "Electrical System" warning on CID. Those are BOTH consistent with "OVER-Voltage" where System Voltage is > 16.0V with engine running (usually caused by faulty Voltage Regulator in rear of Alternator). On most E9x vehicles the Voltage Regulator is a $40 part YOU can replace in an hour or two. I do NOT have specific info on N55. We can only observe your LO$ING Money, and NOT help, unless you provide information requested above. George |
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StradaRedlands6540.00 |
01-24-2024, 03:21 PM | #7 |
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WOW... terrible advice
First thing you need to do is communicate with the vehicle with the proper protocol... you can get a foxwell scanner for 150$ or you can get a autel scanner for 4grand.. doesnt matter to me... but you need to be able to talk to the car before you do anything.. Thats something your gonna have to just swallow... otherwise pay someone to talk to it.. and let them fix it |
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01-24-2024, 06:25 PM | #8 | |
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He can get fault codes read FREE at nearest Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc. He can get a DMM for $10 or less and determine the System Voltage with Engine Running/ Alternator Charging. He can even use "Hidden Menu 9.00" to display System Voltage as he Drives: https://www.carsaddiction.com/articl...er-hidden-menu He can get an Autel 319 for $28 (currently on sale at Amazon) to read Fault Codes, FF Data & Live Data in DME (ONLY): https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AutoLin...zcF9hdGY&psc=1 As far as "talking to the car", he really needs to "Listen": Retrieve the Data (Fault Codes and FF Data) that can be found in Fault Memory of the 3 modules I listed. Talking to your car will NEITHER Diagnose NOR Fix the issue. OP, please just respond to the FIVE (5) Steps/ Tests I suggested and we can go to the "Next Steps". George |
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