[OMEGA412]

Hi there everyone, my n54 is currently pulling timing across all cylinders on wot, car has index 12s, recent Walnut blast, new spark plugs, elder coils, and some other recent maintenance. AFRs are good fuel trims are normal and the only thing I can think is excess oil being pushed into the intake. This would make sense My car burns quite a bit of oil about a quart every 2000 miles. So I'm looking for a PCV system upgrade. I'm going to plug the head ports as well as installing oil catch cans. While I've been reading up on the forms, I saw some people mention an upgraded PCV system that allows for more vacuum in the crank case. Does anyone know where I can obtain this some people said VTT but I didn't see anything on their site. thank you.

[BRG_N54]

Here is the one I used on both cars.

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

Here is the one I used on both cars.

That's the one I run too

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

My understanding is that the basis and oil separation of our PCV system is integrated in the valve cover, so buying a new valve cover may just fix your issues (because gummed up and all, like if it's original). You can also separate the PCV valve itself like mentioned above, but if your valve flaps I don't know if that would be the source of it or help anything. I don't think catch cans are needed at all and are more of a band aid or a fix to reduce the interval you will have to walnut blast. For example I had a weird smoking issue on my previous car (totaled now) that happened sometimes at idle and IIRC, new valve cover seemed to have fixed that.

[GSB]

I use the RB Turbo External PCV kit, and I will never go back! Sadly, the oil separators built into the valve cover do a pretty poor job of separating oil, especially as the engine gets older. I did a walnut-shell blasting and replaced my valve cover a couple years ago, and 20k later, the valves were CAKED in oil again. My "upgraded" PCV valve became overwhelmed and restrictive, so the PCV oil ended up going through the turbo, intercooler, diverter valves, throttle body and manifold instead. I found PUDDLES of oil throughout the intake system, and smoking from the tailpipes. AGAIN. That was the last straw for me. The RB External PCV kit and an oil catch can system have solved that problem once and for all.

https://www.rbturbo.com/products/acc...ternal-pcv-kit

I built my own oil catch can setup that works way better than the recommended Mishimoto cans, for much cheaper.

Furthermore, to help with oil varnish and potential gumming-up of piston rings, I occasionally throw the manufacturer-recommended amount of "GumOut" into the oil. It does make a significant difference. I soaked my 15-year-old OE VANOS valves in GumOut too, and restored perfect functionality.

[iqraceworks]

Have you done a compression and leak down test? If your motor is burning a quart of oil every 2K miles.....the problem isn't with your PCV system. I have a 100% stock PCV setup, and I bet I don't lose less than a found ounces over 3K miles....if that.

[OMEGA412]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Have you done a compression and leak down test? If your motor is burning a quart of oil every 2K miles.....the problem isn't with your PCV system. I have a 100% stock PCV setup, and I bet I don't lose less than a found ounces over 3K miles....if that.

Haven't done a leak down, but compression was 170 across all six cylinders. I have the oem valve cover still with 95k miles. So I'm thinking the oil separators just aren't working. Mainly because there's oil in my bank 2 turbo inlet. Looking at it earlier I did notice I have some oil leaking from somewhere on my passenger side, so that probably contributed to the amount of oil I'm loosing, but the oil in my bank 2 turbo and chargepipe is what concerning me most as I'm getting those timing pulls across all 6 cylinders at wot and high rpm, there usual -3° . I'm thinking that enough oil is getting into my intake to lower my octane down. Already In California which doesn't help.

[GSB]

Originally Posted by OMEGA412

...I'm thinking the oil separators just aren't working. Mainly because there's oil in my bank 2 turbo inlet. Looking at it earlier I did notice I have some oil leaking from somewhere on my passenger side, so that probably contributed to the amount of oil I'm loosing, but the oil in my bank 2 turbo and chargepipe is what concerning me most as I'm getting those timing pulls across all 6 cylinders at wot and high rpm, there usual -3° . I'm thinking that enough oil is getting into my intake to lower my octane down. Already In California which doesn't help.

Yes, ANY restriction in your low-side PCV system (usually the PCV valve itself) will result in PCV oil going through the bank 2 turbo, intercooler, diverter valves, throttle body and manifold. It will also pressurize the rear main crankshaft seal, causing it to leak.

The oil leak on the passenger side may be even more urgent. The N54 valve cover gasket tends to start leaking on the hotter, exhaust side, and that oil runs down the BACK of the engine where you cannot see it, and it gets into the bank 2 turbo coolant hose, which softens and bursts. That was, by far, the worst job I've had to do on my car, because it is almost impossible to access the hose while the engine/turbo is in the car. Replace the valve cover gasket early, and use plenty of degreaser to eliminate any oil on that hose or inside the accordion-style heat-shield for that hose!!

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by OMEGA412

Haven't done a leak down, but compression was 170 across all six cylinders. I have the oem valve cover still with 95k miles. So I'm thinking the oil separators just aren't working. Mainly because there's oil in my bank 2 turbo inlet. Looking at it earlier I did notice I have some oil leaking from somewhere on my passenger side, so that probably contributed to the amount of oil I'm loosing, but the oil in my bank 2 turbo and chargepipe is what concerning me most as I'm getting those timing pulls across all 6 cylinders at wot and high rpm, there usual -3° . I'm thinking that enough oil is getting into my intake to lower my octane down. Already In California which doesn't help.

Have you tried replacing the flapper valve on the PCV system with a new OEM part?

[GSB]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Have you tried replacing the flapper valve on the PCV system with a new OEM part?

I tried replacing the flapper on my car and it did nothing to solve oil going through the turbo. The reason? If the PCV valve becomes restrictive or jams shut, the crankcase becomes pressurized, and the flapper opens. The only thing holding the flapper shut, is vacuum through the PCV valve.

Furthermore, the flapper has a breather hole to allow fresh air into the crankcase as the PCV valve pulls the oily air out. If the PCV isn't pulling that muck out, it's going straight through the flapper AND the breather hole.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by GSB

I tried replacing the flapper on my car and it did nothing to solve oil going through the turbo. The reason? If the PCV valve becomes restrictive or jams shut, the crankcase becomes pressurized, and the flapper opens. The only thing holding the flapper shut, is vacuum through the PCV valve.

Furthermore, the flapper has a breather hole to allow fresh air into the crankcase as the PCV valve pulls the oily air out. If the PCV isn't pulling that muck out, it's going straight through the flapper AND the breather hole.

But like what was your issue? You wanted to have zero oil at all going through intake? Because yeah the normal system even when working normally, will allow some oil to be burned and go through the rear intake, it's just how it is.


Also OP when you talk about cylinder timing, you are talking about timing corrections right or another stat?

[GSB]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

But like what was your issue? You wanted to have zero oil at all going through intake? Because yeah the normal system even when working normally, will allow some oil to be burned and go through the rear intake, it's just how it is.

My issue was PUDDLES of oil throughout the intake system, poor performance and smoking from the tailpipes (similar to the OP). A brand new OE PCV and valve cover solved that only for a short while until the PCV failed again. Now that I have a decent External PCV system, I have zero oil in the intake, zero smoke and zero performance issues.

[OMEGA412]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

But like what was your issue? You wanted to have zero oil at all going through intake? Because yeah the normal system even when working normally, will allow some oil to be burned and go through the rear intake, it's just how it is.


Also OP when you talk about cylinder timing, you are talking about timing corrections right or another stat?

Yeah i'm talking about cylinder timing corrections. Doesn't always happen. But some logs have -3 degree timing pulls across all 6 cylinders. The only thing I can really think causing this is too much pil getting in to my intake and lowering my octane slightly causing minor precombustion across the whole motor. Afrs are perfect and stft's are both between 0 and +/-0.3% so damn near perfect.