[Simbl]

I recently replaced rear coffin/lower camber outer ball joint, inner bush with super pro bushing and also changed the RTAB to spherical/ball joints.

I got my car aligned and they said they could not get the car into spec. But it doesn’t make sense to me.

It also worth noting that I have m3 front arms and the camber pin and maxed on the front top mounts.

On previous alignments I’ve had the front toe 0.07 with -1.5 degrees of camber. I not convinced they’re machine is reading camber correctly. There is a photo of the screen from the previous alignment.

Anyway +1.3 toe in the rear seems stupidly high. It should be 0.10.

Should I call the back and get it fixed.

[wrevilo]

That's strange. I just had new bushes to join the camber arm to the subframe and was able to achieve -1.31 degrees of camber and 0.10 of toe at the rear.

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by wrevilo

That's strange. I just had new bushes to join the camber arm to the subframe and was able to achieve -1.31 degrees of camber and 0.10 of toe at the rear.

I took it back and they re aligned it there machine is set to mm. So I did a mm conversion use a trackage table for find out the mm needed for a vehicle with 17” wheels. Turns out it’s ok the re aligned for me anyway and it’s even close to the spec this time.
They had no clue apart saying it was in the green area.

[Tambohamilton]

Not confidence inspiring!

[Simbl]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Not confidence inspiring!

It is t great. I get terrible luck with alignment shops. The search continues.

[Ohio Enthusiast]

I stopped using alignment shops. They typically offer poor results (just "in the green", and my pet peeve of steering wheel not centered) and charge a lot of money while most modern cars only offer toe adjustment (i.e. no camber or caster adjustment).

After trying various methods to DIY alignment, I settled on this guy's method and has been quite happy with it. Camber can be similarly measured using a string and a plumb bob and doing a big of trigonometry. All one needs is two PVC pipes and some string.

[Tambohamilton]

I use a spirit level with one end drilled and tapped for an M6 bolt, to measure camber. Great, so long as the ground is level!

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Great, so long as the ground is level!

This is a prerequisite for alignment measurement in general. Careful measurements with a 4' level or a DIY water level and some shims should allow for reasonably level ground.

[Tambohamilton]

True, though toe is not so sensitive to it as camber. Do you have a solution for loading the car properly while measuring?

[Simbl]

I actually have a camber gauge, Gunson Trakrite and can do string alignment but I don’t have any level space to set the car up for doing a string alignment.

So I got it realigned and they said there was an issue with the front right.

They showed me. When they rotated the inner toe rod to adjust toe the tie rod end was oscillating as if the threads were not straight. Sort of like it is make a cam. Anyway I thought well once it’s locked off it will be fine. They are 2 week old tie rod assembles. I was actually get an aligned for the work I had done in the rear. Before the work on the rear the car was driving straight with the tie rods.

So after the 2nd alignment car is pulling to the left. I got the Gunson trackrite out and got everything bang on 0 and the car still pulled to the left. I check the toe on the rear is within tolerance. Adjust both tie to adjust the steering wheel angle. 1.25 turn both sides…. Car still pulls left.


So I have a new outer tie rod/end in the post. And I align with the gunson again after warn. I guess they new one is faulty?

I have also just reset the steering angle sensors as my car is an eps rack.

I measure about 1.7-2degrees negative camber in my gauge.