[tobrokeforBMW]

Hi there, I drive a 2010 328i Xdrive. As of recent I have a no start condition with my car. I’d drive my car, park, come back less than 30 min later and find that it would not start.

My first attempt at solving narrowed it down to the starter dying, and upon replacing the starter I was able to start the car after a jumpstart. After a day or two I found that it was a no start again, and supposed it would be the battery, but it read 12.4 amps with engine off, and 14 with engine on. Thought it may be the IBS as I may of jostled it while unplugging the negative lead for the starter repair, but even with it unplugged I get no start (and had also unplugged the jump leads bc I actually took the battery out). After plugging everything back in and it was a healthy start (happened to start while a multimeater was on it). This morning it would not start again and now im thinking it may be the ground strap from the engine. I attempted to ground the engine with jumper cables, and got a weak crank (maybe now the battery is drained a bit from attempting to start so many times?) but no start, sounding like it just wasn’t getting enough juice.

When attempting to start, I find that the dash flickers and often disappears, hazard light clicks a ton, and it just looks like all the electronics spazz out a bit, even taking some time to come back to normal, but they always do.

I’m waiting on a friend to come jump me and I’ll test for the grounds again.

Any thoughts? Thank you very much. (Unfortunately I only have an OBD code reader and I’m not getting any codes, nor could I read them anyways with the engine off).

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by tobrokeforBMW

... 2010 328i Xdrive... As of recent I have a no start condition with my car.["NO Crank" I presume, or "Crank, NO Start?"] I’d drive my car, park, come back less than 30 min later and find that it would not start... upon replacing the starter I was able to start the car after a jumpstart. After a day or two I found that it was a no start again... it read 12.4 amps with engine off, and 14 with engine on... took the battery out. After plugging everything back in and it was a healthy start (happened to start while a multimeater [hamburger & sausage?]was on it). This morning it would not start again and now im thinking it may be the ground strap from the engine. I attempted to ground the engine with jumper cables, and got a weak crank...but no start...When attempting to start, I find that the dash flickers and often disappears, hazard light clicks a ton, and it just looks like all the electronics spazz out a bit, even taking some time to come back to normal, but they always do... Unfortunately I only have an OBD code reader and I’m not getting any codes, nor could I read them anyways with the engine off).

Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) works with Ignition ON, Engine Off. May need to have battery charger attached, depending upon battery voltage.

I would FIRST focus on the CAS Module. Begin with CAS Fault Codes & Freeze Frame Data, & then Live Data (CAS Terminal Status). That is particularly true if "NO Crank" as opposed to "Crank, NO Start". Other conditions which suggest either CAS issue (wiring/connector issue more often than Module fault) or loose/intermittent voltage supply/ground: Relay chatter from Glovebox area; Instrument Cluster lighting with Ignition On; Click (either single or multiple) when START button pressed with foot on brake/clutch.

If you have SOME WAY of getting Hexadecimal Fault Codes read from CAS Fault Memory (local AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc.), that would give clues on what to test NEXT.

BEST Diagnosis AFTER reading Codes: VIEW Live Data of CAS Terminal Status at each stage of (1) Key Insertion, (2) Ignition ON, (3) START pressed with Brake/Clutch (KL50 signal to Starter Solenoid). INPA or ISTA (BMW Diagnostic Software) can do ALL those things. Some more expensive Scan Tools can as well.

My suggestion is to get proper tools, either:
1) Provide information on any a) Windows Laptop & OS, or b) Android device that you have, & we can suggest best/cheapest solution; e.g. if you have Windows Laptop, you can find INPA FREE & pay $30-$50 for K+DCAN Cable to connect to vehicle. It WILL require TIME from YOU.
2) Find Local Shop with INPA/ISTA, etc. who can read codes, FF Data, & view Live Data of CAS Terminal Status. Get ScreenPrints of that Data & Post here for advice on Next Steps, or rely on $hop for Diagnosis.

"No Crank", or "Crank, No Start" conditions REQUIRE that you have TOOLS. If you DON'T, you're looking at towing & "Captive $hop" expenses, and you are totally at mercy of shop & their abilities/ proclivities. In addition to $$$$, it may take Days/Weeks to get "Fix". First Steps for ANY vehicle owner should be to KNOW what Diagnostic Tools are available for YOUR vehicle, their approximate Cost, & make a PLAN for HOW YOU will handle a No Crank/ No Start situation. A $10 Multimeter is MINIMUM REQUIREMENT. Since you HAVE a "Multimeater" we can suggest tests you can do & furnish wiring diagrams & explanations of HOW things work. It WILL take longer than beginning with INPA/ISTA.

When you post back, please also provide: Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

[gbalthrop]

Example: INPA CAS Terminal Diagnosis Screen, 3/2007 build 328xi, showing Igniton ON, Starter NOT active, per prior post.
George

[tobrokeforBMW]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) works with Ignition ON, Engine Off. May need to have battery charger attached, depending upon battery voltage.

I would FIRST focus on the CAS Module. Begin with CAS Fault Codes & Freeze Frame Data, & then Live Data (CAS Terminal Status). That is particularly true if "NO Crank" as opposed to "Crank, NO Start". Other conditions which suggest either CAS issue (wiring/connector issue more often than Module fault) or loose/intermittent voltage supply/ground: Relay chatter from Glovebox area; Instrument Cluster lighting with Ignition On; Click (either single or multiple) when START button pressed with foot on brake/clutch.

If you have SOME WAY of getting Hexadecimal Fault Codes read from CAS Fault Memory (local AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc.), that would give clues on what to test NEXT.

BEST Diagnosis AFTER reading Codes: VIEW Live Data of CAS Terminal Status at each stage of (1) Key Insertion, (2) Ignition ON, (3) START pressed with Brake/Clutch (KL50 signal to Starter Solenoid). INPA or ISTA (BMW Diagnostic Software) can do ALL those things. Some more expensive Scan Tools can as well.

My suggestion is to get proper tools, either:
1) Provide information on any a) Windows Laptop & OS, or b) Android device that you have, & we can suggest best/cheapest solution; e.g. if you have Windows Laptop, you can find INPA FREE & pay $30-$50 for K+DCAN Cable to connect to vehicle. It WILL require TIME from YOU.
2) Find Local Shop with INPA/ISTA, etc. who can read codes, FF Data, & view Live Data of CAS Terminal Status. Get ScreenPrints of [...]

Hi there. It is a no crank no start issue, normally anyways. Sometimes it likes to give me a bit of hope after I’ve been trying to start it for a while by randomly cranking a little bit. I double checked grounds yesterday and well, they look pretty OK. Working on getting diagnostic tools but for now the last 7 on my vin are A646596.