[ThatSlowJerseyN52]

This is my 2011 328i(SULEV) and I’m new to this whole bmw thing and I just have questions about some things.

- a lot of maintenance has already been put into the car but what are some things I should look out for?

- I’m a broke 18 year old so I’m not really planning to put a lot into mods but i definitely want to clean it up a little bit. What size spacers should I use on the stock wheels to fill in the gap a little bit? And what is the best way to clean up foggy headlights?

- at around 50+ mph the steering wheel starts to shake a little bit. I would say it’s an unbalanced tire but it seems to happen on decel and settles in slowly while cruising.

- I know these gm transmissions are really sluggish and tend to kick sometimes but the 3rd to 4th shift kicks really hard and I’ll probably have to start scheduling chiropractor appointments next month. Is there anything to remedy that or should I start looking into a new transmission? And if I need to look Into a new transmission I don’t want to replace it with another gm transmission and been looking to go the zf route. Which one would I need specifically? I read that since I have a 2011 I would need a zf6hp21 and not the hp19. Would I have to get it from a 2011? Would it also be from a 335? Coupe? Sedan? Can it come from an xdrive? I’m sorry for the splurge of questions I just want to make this 110% of what it can be.

[Wolf 335]

If you need a $1-2K for unexpected repairs, how will you get this done?

Steering wheel shake is likely thrust arm bushings.

For headlights you can use Sylvania or Cerakote headlight restoration kit.

[Fredo]

Congrats, man! How many miles on the clock?

It could be a good idea to get a PPI (in your case, Post Purchase Inspection) with a BMW specialist. They will know this model well and can help you to prioritize repairs and service needed.

I head good things about the 3M headlight restoration kit, but I never tried it.

Good luck!

[ThatSlowJerseyN52]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

If you need a $1-2K for unexpected repairs, how will you get this done?

Steering wheel shake is likely thrust arm bushings.

For headlights you can use Sylvania or Cerakote headlight restoration kit.

I have money stashed away for those kind of repairs. How would I check those thrust arm bearings? Would it be something easy to do myself or should I take it to a mechanic to have them check it? & thank you on the kit recommendations I will definitely be looking into them and probably trying them.

[ThatSlowJerseyN52]

Originally Posted by Fredo

Congrats, man! How many miles on the clock?

It could be a good idea to get a PPI (in your case, Post Purchase Inspection) with a BMW specialist. They will know this model well and can help you to prioritize repairs and service needed.

I head good things about the 3M headlight restoration kit, but I never tried it.

Good luck!

She just hit 165k miles yesterday and still going strong!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

If you need a $1-2K for unexpected repairs, how will you get this done?

Steering wheel shake is likely thrust arm bushings.

For headlights you can use Sylvania or Cerakote headlight restoration kit.

When braking.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ThatSlowJerseyN52

I have money stashed away for those kind of repairs. How would I check those thrust arm bearings? Would it be something easy to do myself or should I take it to a mechanic to have them check it? & thank you on the kit recommendations I will definitely be looking into them and probably trying them.

The non-M E90 uses a hydraulic thrust arm bushing. It's filled with oil. If thrust bushing leaks the oil will dribble out and stain the aluminum subframe where they attach. The trust arm is the suspension link that is located between the lower control arm at the wheel steering knuckle forward up to the front crossmember of the front subframe. Most of the subframe is covered by the plastic under-engine cover (belly pan).

Worn bushings are noticeable mostly when braking. Constant speed wheel vibration is usually an out of balance tire or a bent wheel, or a combination of both.

[Efthreeoh]

Not to flame, but you've just bought a car that has been available since late 2005 and went out of production in 2012. Nearly every question you will have has been answered here multiple times.

Understandingly there is a vast amount of information on E90 Post. It's not well organized and the search engine isn't that good. I have found using Google or another internet search engine and adding "E90Post" into the search question can find most posts you are seeking answers from.

[ThatSlowJerseyN52]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Not to flame, but you've just bought a car that has been available since late 2005 and went out of production in 2012. Nearly every question you will have has been answered here multiple times.

Understandingly there is a vast amount of information on E90 Post. It's not well organized and the search engine isn't that good. I have found using Google or other search engine and adding "E90Post" in the search can find most posts you are seeking answers from.

I understand I’ve just been struggling to find clear answers and want to confirm things before I start going ahead and replacing things.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ThatSlowJerseyN52

I understand I’ve just been struggling to find clear answers and want to confirm things before I start going ahead and replacing things.

But you are asking people an internet car forum about a problem they can't physically see to help truly diagnose it, so we can only guess, which means you'll not get a clear answer.

BMWs have very precise suspension systems that easily get perturbed by tire balance and bent wheels.

[watchout-everyone]

Youtube, Google, and existing posts in this E90post is so helpful too.

Even ChatGPT but i would double check with a BMW specialist. I think you can even email them and they will respond

https://chatgpt.com/share/6e132f10-a...0-f672ecba5940

[ppointer]

I have a 335is with 12mm spacers in back and 10mm in front. I bought them used from this forum. Just about right. Apologies for no photos -- car is in FL and I am in OH for a while.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by ppointer

I have a 335is with 12mm spacers in back and 10mm in front. I bought them used from this forum. Just about right. Apologies for no photos -- car is in FL and I am in OH for a while.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by ThatSlowJerseyN52

... 2011 328i(SULEV)... at around 50+ mph the steering wheel starts to shake a little bit. I would say it’s an unbalanced tire but it seems to happen on decel and settles in slowly while cruising.

- I know these gm transmissions are really sluggish and tend to kick sometimes but the 3rd to 4th shift kicks really hard...

Welcome to the Forum!
My "Standard Suggestion": DIAGNOSE! Do NOT throw Part$$$

Unfortunately most folks have NOT spent enough TIME understanding the various Systems on their E9x, or ANALyzing an issue, or using Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA/ProTool) where helpful, to become GOOD at Diagnosing an Issue (WHY is this happening).

As a result, trying to find "Someone who has had SAME Issue" is almost always a "Fool's Errand", often Literally, 'cuz someone new to E9x models can't be reasonbly expected to KNOW what to test or what data is pertinent.

As example in YOUR case, exactly WHEN & under what Conditions, does the "steering wheel shake" occur? You state: "at around 50+ mph the steering wheel starts to shake a little bit... it seems to happen on decel and settles in slowly while cruising."
NOT sure what "settles in" means to you.
Does "shake" always occur when speed reaches 50 MPH?
If NOT, does it only occur when raining or road wet? Is Shake "Heat-related?
Does it go away at greater speed, e.g. 65 MPH? Is it worse at > speed?
Under WHAT conditions is it worst? Letting off gas without pressing brake? Pressing Brake LIGHTLY? Turning Left?, Turning Right? (weight shift to one side).

YOU (folks on Forum generally will NOT spend TIME/ANALyze ;-) need to think about the issue & develop your own TESTS to try to determine if issue is ONLY/WORSE at certain speed range (e.g. 50 - 65 MPH), certain conditions ( wet road, light braking, Left side "Loaded" as in R turn, acceleration, deceleration, heat related). Is "SOURCE" of vibration from Front, Rear, Right/Left Side? Tire? U-joint such as Output shaft?

After thinking about possible causes, & TESTS to try to narrow location, Carefully INSPECT things such as U-joint boots; tires; brake disc "runout"; uneven brake pad wear: Left to Right, Inboard pad vs. Outboard... You're looking for "CLUES", NOT usually 'smoking gun'. It COULD be something as obvious as a tire defect (rotate front to back to see what changes), or wheel improperly installed. Most folks don't think about "Hub-centric" wheels & need to clean hubs & wheel centers. If you can't get wheel off hub after removing 5 bolts, post back.

Saving BEST for LAST:
Get Good Diagnostic Software:
1) INPA (BMW Standard Tools) or ISTA, IF you have Windows Laptop, OR
2) ProTool if you have an Android device.
Post back for DETAILS. If you have laptop, $30 to $50 for K+DCAN Cable could be your ONLY expense.

BEFORE you Do/$pend ANYTHING, you need to get a PLAN on HOW you will Diagnose, get a LIST of ALL current Fault Codes in all ~ 20 Modules, & ALL History Memory in "PowerTrain" Modules (Engine, Fuel Pump, Transmission, DSC). Post that information (History Memory optional) here for ANALysis.

You need to have the EGS (Automatic transmission Module, 'GS1912') scanned for (1) Current Fault Codes, AND (2) History Faults (HistorySpeicher). The latter remain in History Memory even after faults are "Cleared" from regular "Fault Memory" or Fehlerspeicher. ONLY after doing that, and also viewing Live Data, can anyone advise on condition of your transmission, or what maintenance (Change of Dexron VI Fluid & Filter for example) is advisable. ANY GOOD Transmission Shop, familiar with GM6 transmission, should be able to test & advise. Since "NEW" Transmission could cost what you paid for vehicle, THAT is MOST important issue to DIAGNOSE.

History Memory (available using INPA) can be VERY helpful when trying to learn the HISTORY of an older vehicle which is "New-to-You". For all Powertrain Modules, it shows last 10 Faults, last 3 instances of each of those faults, mileage/km at which fault occurred & some Freeze Frame data for each instance. Unless Prior Owner was Devious enough to delete that History Memory, you can learn everything he "Forgot" to tell you.
George

[StradaRedlands]

Vibration is probably thrust arm bushings as mentioned, or possibly warped brake rotors.
Do you have documentation when suspension was last refreshed? You can have new thrust arm bushings pressed in, but if the ball joints are bad as well, you will. need new arms. And possibly control arms as well. And possibly shocks & struts & mounts. And possibly engine mounts. It never really ends...

[ppointer]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Fair enough. Here is a pic of my 335i in OH with 10mm spacers F&R.

[Greazywxrld]

Be sure to check for that oil leak, bmw still doesn’t know how to make a valve cover gasket that doesn’t leak 🥰. Electric water pump is an issue with these cars too. Overall the N52 is a great car and the most reliable of the bunch. Watch out for ignition coils too. Hope you enjoy it