[FreeTooAte]

Car is a 2008 328i wagon

Car starts and runs with jump as of posting

No gauge cluster, no idrive, no climate controls, no obd

Brainstorming ideas on what could be wrong.
I have replaced the jbe and frm with used ones, still no interior. Will be trying a brand new battery to see if 12.6 volts will wake anything up. Car was previously in an insurance auction for front end damage, and the mileage is the exact same (pushing the trip meter shows mileage so cluster has power somehow). The big red terminal on the positive side of the battery was tampered with before i started and i did see that the fusible links have been replaced, However, the old one was included with the car and it is missing a link on the far right. I have read about fuse 58 and i will be testing it with a power probe. I have seen some people say that their cas module was the issue, but their cars don't run in the first place. Mine starts and runs(with a low battery and a jump), but, it is misfiring on one cylinder. Obd port does have power, but there is nothing coming through on bimmerlink.

Im open to any suggestions
thank you.

[ctuna]

Look for 12 volts at the OBD follow it back .
There is one fuse and fusible link for it I believe .

Make sure the cable that supplys the 12 volt's is plugged into a fusible link that has a blade to connect it.
Fusible link array is not always totally populated.

Yeah your diagnostics won't run without power.(that comes through the OBD)

No power to the instrument cluster and some other things on the console when the fuse is blown for the OBD.
Also if the battery is disconnected you need to touch one of the climate controls to start that module .

I don't see how you can diagnose a missfire without obd power.

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Look for 12 volts at the OBD follow it back .
There is one fuse and fusible link for it I believe .

Make sure the cable that supplys the 12 volt's is plugged into a fusible link that has a blade to connect it.
Fusible link array is not always totally populated.

Yeah your diagnostics won't run without power.(that comes through the OBD)

No power to the instrument cluster and some other things on the console when the fuse is blown for the OBD.
Also if the battery is disconnected you need to touch one of the climate controls to start that module .

I don't see how you can diagnose a missfire without obd power.

hey man! thank you for the response. I diagnosed the misfire because the car starts and runs. I could hear and feel the misfire. i will check the fusible link array thank you. There is power coming to the gauge cluster because when i press the trip meter, the mileage shows up and the lights turn on.

[ctuna]

Also you should put a full slow charge on the battery .
None of the electronics like running with a low battery and
a low battery can give you false diagnositic results.

The Intelligent battery system can also shut stuff off if the battery
is to low . under 12 volts is not good 12. 4 would be considered
marginal . If you are working on the car the car is awake and
sucking down the battery . Ok for an hour or two with a good battery
but not for hours on end.

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Also you should put a full slow charge on the battery .
None of the electronics like running with a low battery and
a low battery can give you false diagnositic results.

The Intelligent battery system can also shut stuff off if the battery
is to low . under 12 volts is not good 12. 4 would be considered
marginal . If you are working on the car the car is awake and
sucking down the battery . Ok for an hour or two with a good battery
but not for hours on end.

I was able to stop by the wagon yesterday and tested the fuses. All are good
New battery lets the car start and run on its own. I did remove the CAS and there was as thick layer of dust on top so im guessing the previous guy didnt touch it. I read on here that a CAS module gave someone the same symptoms that im having so im hoping on that.

[ctuna]

Your making assumptions without running diagnostics .
Not a good way to go .
The last attachment I put up are the keys to to kingdom
you should look through it.
Also thank George for putting it together.

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Your making assumptions without running diagnostics .
Not a good way to go .
The last attachment I put up are the keys to to kingdom
you should look through it.
Also thank George for putting it together.

It has been said before and ill say it again. THE OBD PORT DOES NOT WORK. so knowing this. how would i be able to diagnose anything when the OBD PORT DOES NOT WORK

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by FreeTooAte

Car is a 2008 328i wagon; Car starts and runs with jump as of posting; No gauge cluster, no idrive,
no climate controls, no obd; replaced the jbe and frm with used ones, still no interior. [No interior WHAT? Lights? Radio? IHKA Control
Panel? Seats? Etc.?]...

As you suggest, it would be EASIER if you can Connect to JBE Hub & Read Fault Codes & Live Data in ALL Modules.

Please list ALL Components that do NOT work, such as Interior Lights, Radio, IHKA Panel, Instrument Cluster, etc.,
(1) FIRST with NO Jumper Cables or Booster attached, then (2) with Booster attached to Jumpstart Terminals under hood.
Do NOT connect booster to Battery in rear. Do NOT start engine until LAST Voltage Test below.

Using Multimeter, Engine OFF, test for voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood, WITHOUT booster attached. Test for
voltage at Battery Posts in rear. THEN start engine & Test voltage at those locations with alternator charging. Report Voltage Values.

Attached is OBD II Socket wiring diagram. Test for Voltage at X19527/16 with Ignition ON, & for continuity to Chassis
Ground at X19527/4 & X19527/5.

EDIT: Error in initial ISTA ScreenPrint; NOW attached, OBD II Socket SSP & Connector View (TINY socket numbers shown);
F74 Fuse Circuit, Showing Bistable Relay. Please let us know if your E91 has Nav Screen/CIC, & Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

[ctuna]

Seems like it would be easier to just trace the 12 volts from the battery distribution block to the cabin fuse board through fuse 58 to get the OBD port working.

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

As you suggest, it would be EASIER if you can Connect to JBE Hub & Read Fault Codes & Live Data in ALL Modules.

Please list ALL Components that do NOT work, such as Interior Lights, Radio, IHKA Panel, Instrument Cluster, etc.,
(1) FIRST with NO Jumper Cables or Booster attached, then (2) with Booster attached to Jumpstart Terminals under hood.
Do NOT connect booster to Battery in rear. Do NOT start engine until LAST Voltage Test below.

Using Multimeter, Engine OFF, test for voltage at Jumpstart Terminals under hood, WITHOUT booster attached. Test for
voltage at Battery Posts in rear. THEN start engine & Test voltage at those locations with alternator charging. Report Voltage Values.

Attached is OBD II Socket wiring diagram. Test for Voltage at X19527/16 with Ignition ON, & for continuity to Chassis
Ground at X19527/4 & X19527/5.

EDIT: Error in initial ISTA ScreenPrint; NOW attached, OBD II Socket SSP & Connector View (TINY socket numbers shown);
F74 Fuse Circuit, Showing Bistable Relay. Please let us know if your E91 has Nav Screen/CIC, & Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

Thank you, unfortunately i do not have access to ista or inpa yet. As far as the interior these are the things that do not work:

Gauge Cluster
Obd Port
Hvac controls (AC + heater)
Idrive controller and screen
Central Locking
Traction Control
All Interior lights other than the rear hatch lights
Windows
Window Lock
Cigarette Lighter


Things that do work:

Gauge cluster-ONLY WHEN TRIP METER BUTTON IS PRESSED TO SHOW MILES
Hazard button
Gear selector light
Mirrors
Folding Mirrors
Headlights, turn signals, brake light
Ignition
Seat movement



Last digits of the vin are 16740 and yes, the car does have Idrive
Brand new battery has been installed and my lists are correct on which doesn't work and what works.
Tested alternator output already with battery tester and saw 14 v when the car was on. So far i do not see an issue inside the engine bay. Ignition works as the car does start and run on its own (now)


Thank you for providing those diagrams from ista though, those do definitely help

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Seems like it would be easier to just trace the 12 volts from the battery distribution block to the cabin fuse board through fuse 58 to get the OBD port working.

I do remember testing fuse 58 and replacing it with a like fuse, nothing changed and i did have power at the fuse.

[ctuna]

As shown in the schematic that fuse should have a direct line to the OBD and instrument panel . If there is 12 volts on it and the wiring is intact the 12 volts should be measurable at the OBD connector . The ground at the OBD should be intact to. Since this has to be fixed anyway for smog to pass I would devote some time to it. Most all the diagnostics here work off the OBD so it needs to be working .
Like actually measure the voltage with a voltmeter.

[FreeTooAte]

Originally Posted by ctuna

As shown in the schematic that fuse should have a direct line to the OBD and instrument panel . If there is 12 volts on it and the wiring is intact the 12 volts should be measurable at the OBD connector . The ground at the OBD should be intact to. Since this has to be fixed anyway for smog to pass I would devote some time to it. Most all the diagnostics here work off the OBD so it needs to be working .
Like actually measure the voltage with a voltmeter.

There is power at the obd, but nothing is coming through on the scanner

OBD Link CX + BimmerLink