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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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M57 330d 6 sp Owners, Question for You
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12-15-2024, 12:13 PM | #1 |
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M57 330d 6 sp Owners, Question for You
Hey Guys;
I know I might not get much feedback for this combo since it was produced between 2004-2008, but I'm currently in the process of manual swapping my US spec 335d. Parts are starting to come in from Europe. Last thing I'm waiting on is the transmission/shifter assy which is supposed to be delivered to me Monday (12/16) according to tracking. I won't get to this swap until likely end of march or april, when the weather starts to warm up a bit. But I'm really curious of how the shifter assembly "feels" as it's really unique to the engine/model. The selector rod was only used on the 325/330d and it was limited years. It's much shorter than the other ones, except for the N54 which I think has the shortest selector rod. I would think, that the shorter rod would make for less play/slop compared to other models. There are after market DSSR's, but most of them don't work with the selector rod joint. The DSSR's made for the correct selector rod joint are for some M3 platform e90's, but again, the effective length is not the same between those and this unique 325/330d rod. Anyway, I was hoping a couple people that own these might be able to give some feedback on how this setup "shifts" and if there's anything that can be done to make any shortcomings better, since if there are, the time to do it would be during the swap. Or, if this setup is just best left alone with new bushings and such Thanks all! |
12-16-2024, 04:07 AM | #2 |
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Hello, I have a 2007 325d M57 with a manual gearbox, unfortunately, as much as I like the car and try to keep it in very good condition, the only thing that drives me crazy is the gear lever and window seals. I have already replaced some elements, oe basket/bearing, securing clip, gearbox oil 50/50 atf/mtf but the feeling is still bad, first gear at temperatures around 0 still goes in hard, and the lever itself has noticeable play and lack of precision. I have planned a complete overhaul of the selector during the next clutch replacement. My wife drives a 2011 318d with a manual gearbox and precision and general feel is much much better. In my opinion, if I had everything outside like in your case, I would go for the good short shifter kit + bush bearings, rod joint etc new oe.
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12-16-2024, 04:33 PM | #3 | |
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I plan on overhauling all of the bushings while it's out. Speaking of, I received the transmission and parts today! I'm going to do the delrin front bushings, poly rear bushing, and replace the rod joint bushing/cup as well, the the DSSR joint at the transmission. These transmissions use that weird offset one too, similar to the M3's The vehicle not going into gear for you could potentially be a clutch issue too, or needing to rebleed the cylinder...or a worn pivot pin, etc. How is the throw? It looks like by design it would already be pretty short and with upgraded/replaced bushings I would think might be good in the OEM form |
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12-21-2024, 02:31 PM | #5 |
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1. Remove clutch delay valve - this ruins all the shifting.
2. I got this one: https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/prod...33f6cb22&_ss=r 3. I got this knob: 25110429269 I'm happy with how it ended up. Precise and short shifts while looking like OEM but not as bad as OEM. |
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12-21-2024, 09:52 PM | #6 | |
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I will be running the ZHP shift knob. I've replaced all the bushings with the Garagistic kit. I'm really just curious about the shift characteristics with the system if everthing is tight. Short shifter fits the 330d M57? Not sure I want to go for a short shifter if the shifts are short as is, because of the short selector rod. It's already a compact system as it is, just looking for some feedback for the OEM shifting characteristics, with a bonus if the bushings are tight. |
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12-30-2024, 12:00 PM | #8 |
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01-02-2025, 12:45 PM | #10 |
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You're missing out on the best resource for these vehicles.
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01-04-2025, 02:56 PM | #11 |
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I've done well my entire life not having it and would like to avoid it if possible.
So far been able to do everything via RealOEM/Newtis and the occasional YouTube video. I've heard that FB doesn't play friendly with burner accounts either. I'm guessing a few of the people who swapped might have discord, but I really have no way of initially contacting them. |
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01-04-2025, 03:34 PM | #12 |
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I like the feel of my shifter. No reason to suspect it's significantly different from any other gs6 e9x though. Mine could use new bushings etc. I don't feel the need for a shorter shifter - I don't want the knob any further from the steering wheel, and I feel like the throw is fine as is (it's not a track/race car!). I think the feel is excellent - very smooth and I rarely miss a shift, but positive enough that you always know what's going on. It almost shifts itself, in a good way.
My partner had (my dad owns it now) a 2008 118d which has a getrag box. It's VERY positive, to the point where you can't be lazy with shifts or you'll miss them. I liked it, but definitely prefer mine - it's easier but still with good feel. I've tried to set up a couple of burner FB accounts too, having had a 'proper' one years ago. Can confirm; the burners don't last long, even though I did nothing wrong! |
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01-04-2025, 04:18 PM | #13 | |
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You wouldn't think that it would feel any different between any e90 models, but in reality, the part nnumbers, selector rod lengths, rod joint and carriers all vary in size, length, and shape. It depends on engine config and transmission. The M57 and N57 330d have different shifter assemblies because the transmission is actually a different design. Even if it shares the GS6. The N54 gasser and M57 330d have the shortest selector rods. M54 is like 85mm or something while the M57 is 91mm. Then there's the location of the bend that's different between them too. All of this would play into the feel because as those selector rods get longer, the more flex they will have which is why a lot of people go to the DSSR, for a more positive shift experience and so it won't wear out the bushings in the carrier and shifter rod prematurely. This all came about because I was hoping to get an aftermarket DSSR for this setup (M57, 330d, GS6-53DZ) but because that selector rod is so short, it's going to be much more rigid than some of it's siblings. So as long as it feels pretty crisp to the owners with this config, I feel there is likely no need to stray from the OEM selector rod. |
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01-04-2025, 06:15 PM | #15 |
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Good to know. I'm upgrading all the bushings while the assembly is out. Delrin for the front carrier locations, the Turner poly bushing for the rear carrier support, and the pivot socket as well. Also, I ordered a new selector joint since the foam breaks down in the OEM one. So that should tighten up everything OEM or better.
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01-05-2025, 05:48 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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'09 335D
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01-08-2025, 10:54 AM | #17 |
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01-10-2025, 10:20 AM | #18 |
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If you're stuck, create an account and join the group. All the info you could need when doing a 6spd swap.
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01-10-2025, 10:37 AM | #19 |
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I am going to join and likely introduce my project, but have no clue how to use it as it's not the same really as forums. Either way, I've been waiting to be accepted into the group. Still pending
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01-10-2025, 12:10 PM | #20 |
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Using the search function is your best bet. Do that first before making a post..
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01-11-2025, 10:22 AM | #21 | |
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I do a lot of technical write ups and I can tell you how much information usually lacks on these forums, which is why I do them. Obviously I will search and see what comes up but I'm not expecting many posts for most specific details. Also, FB is notorious for people with attitudes which I am absolutely not a fan of, so I'm hoping it's a bit more tame than the standard social media garbage. |
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02-06-2025, 10:51 AM | #22 | |
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With an atuo, when you power on the car (key position 2, but engine not started) the reverse lights will come on (ie, you can be in park). I've completed the manual swap and started the car a few times, but it was making a bad noise when starting (unreleated issue) so I need to pull the starter as when it runs, it's fine). With a manual, if the car has power but not started, I noticed the reverse lights do not come on. ProTools Bimmergeeks told me that the engine needs to be running and the car have power to trigger the reverse lights with a MT. Obviously I can't test this now because i don't want to damage the flywheel teeth anymore. Can you confirm with a MT, the reverse lights only will come on with engine running and power on, and not just with the power on? That will make me rest a bit easier about that issue. Other than that, with it running, there were no other codes or issues |
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