[Nicks_M3]

Hey guys, I have been having a consistent problem with my 2010 n54 335i xdrive. I am getting a 2a82 code consistently on every cold start about 1 minute into my drive. It only happens when there is enough power to utilize the vanos system. So if I creep along it won’t trigger. I also occasionally get the 2a7C code.

So I have replaced the solenoids a couple years ago, I also just swapped them and the code didn’t follow. I also swapped the cam sensors, the check valves and replaced the crank sensor. I also just replaced the oil filter cap. I changed the oil from 5w-40 to 0w-30. I tested the oil pressure and noticed nothing out of the ordinary.

The cam ledges were checked 2 years ago when I rebuilt the engine, they were fine. They are the teflon sealed ones. At this point I would rather not replace them and given that the code only triggers when the engine is cold leads me to believe this may be something else. I highly doubt it’s the ledges.

I can’t for the life of me figure it out though, it’s driving me nuts. Anyone go through something similar or have any insight into what I am missing? I logged the data when the code came on and noticed it looked mechanical on the intake vanos side. You can see the required and actual are quite far off and that is the point when 2a82 is triggered.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

I don't have much other solutions to provide. I was coming here to mention the camshaft bearing ledge since that seems to the last thing you haven't done, except for the actual VANOS gears.

Unfortunately only one way to check if the camshaft bearing ledge is the issue or not.
And just FYI, yes the issue can still happen with the teflon/plastic type seals.

But yeah I admit in my case, mine came on usually when the oil was warmed since it wasn't as thick. I've only rarely gotten the variable camshaft code there, usually it was only 2A82, and not on coldstart.

[Jeff S]

Sounds simple, but I would check all of the electrical connections and wiring. I was having similar issues and for months I thought it was the dreaded camshaft bearing ledge. After swapping and changing the VANOS solenoids, cleaning the check valves and replacing the oil cap, among other things (none of which worked), I cleaned all of my electrical connections and have not had a 2A82 or 3100 code since.
Good luck!

[BRG_N54]

This is going to sound crazy, well crazier than usual for me, but it might be the boost solenoids. I was chasing a similar 2A82 code, only when cold under light acceleration. I replaced VANOS solenoids and the exhaust ledge and cam seals. Error came right back, hasn't returned since I replaced boost solenoids.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by Jeff S

Sounds simple, but I would check all of the electrical connections and wiring. I was having similar issues and for months I thought it was the dreaded camshaft bearing ledge. After swapping and changing the VANOS solenoids, cleaning the check valves and replacing the oil cap, among other things (none of which worked), I cleaned all of my electrical connections and have not had a 2A82 or 3100 code since.
Good luck!

Yeah, so I have been cleaning each wiring connection as I get to the component that has them. Still no luck.

[Nicks_M3]

Originally Posted by BRG_N54

This is going to sound crazy, well crazier than usual for me, but it might be the boost solenoids. I was chasing a similar 2A82 code, only when cold under light acceleration. I replaced VANOS solenoids and the exhaust ledge and cam seals. Error came right back, hasn't returned since I replaced boost solenoids.

I actually may look into this a bit more. I don’t see anything indicative of failing boost solenoids though. And I have pinpointed a mechanical issue on the intake side of the Vanos system. But yes I am getting 2A82 about a minute into the drive and it isn’t coming back after I clear it.

[rjahl]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

I actually may look into this a bit more. I don’t see anything indicative of failing boost solenoids though. And I have pinpointed a mechanical issue on the intake side of the Vanos system. But yes I am getting 2A82 about a minute into the drive and it isn’t coming back after I clear it.

I'm having the exact same issue, Have not checked my Cam Ledges as the car is a 2012 that should have the new teflon seal ring and low miles, 86K with frequent oil changes.

Problem is the intake cam and I have purchased new solenoids, new sensor and the problem persists. Check screens, they were perfect. Changed oil filter and checked cage.

Error is always at about 2,000 to 2,400 RPM during acceleration nearly always after a full stop and rest at idle. Like your data, cam seems to be stuck at 124 degrees which is basically at rest. Every error logged cam will be stuck at "rest".

I've been driving around and logging, watching the error a few weeks now and can't figure it out.

Today, for the lack of any other ideas, I wrote a custom tune changing all of the Intake cam targets in the affected load and RPM ranges and reset them from 124ish to 121 degrees. I've taken only one fairly long test drive but so far no cam position errors.

Intake cam is only at 125 degrees at idle and low load, low RPM conditions.


I was going to write a new post to discuss this but tagging along with this one seemed like a better idea.

[rjahl]

Screen shot of the Intake Vanos maps that I modified for testing

[rjahl]

One more thing, Have you watched the PWM signals to the vanos valves?

Using INPA and setting the RPM to 1,100 RPM have you activated the Vanos valves? What is the difference between target and actual intake position when you set the -72 degree activation? My intake holds with in 10 degree of the target. I feel like that performance variance would help identify a cam ledge seal problem. Just need reference data from other cars

[BRG_N54]

Originally Posted by Nicks_M3

I actually may look into this a bit more. I don’t see anything indicative of failing boost solenoids though. And I have pinpointed a mechanical issue on the intake side of the Vanos system. But yes I am getting 2A82 about a minute into the drive and it isn’t coming back after I clear it.

My solution was not indicated anywhere in any of the research I did. It was a bit of a "hail Mary" play on my part. I was surprised by the result, and wish I would have tried it before the expense of replacing the cam tray. In any event, I have the new Teflon cam seals in that car now, so a bit of future proofing. Here is my post, the error did return after VANOS solenoids and was not completely eradicated until after boost solenoids replacement.

[rjahl]

3 days of driving and zero Vanos codes after the modified Vanos mapping. Car drives well and has no faults, so that's a win and the fix was far cheaper than all the parts and thinking that I threw at it.

I'm currently thinking that, regardless of the seal type, the inlet cam shaft seal will fail and the cause, if I'm correct is bad OEM Inlet vanos targets at low load and idle. Again, if If my understanding of the system is correct, there is zero oil pressure in the inlet vanos during these conditions and therefor no lubrication being provided to the seal. If you have a ton of idle time or very low speed coasting conditions, the cam seal will fail.

Again, if I am correct. when the cam is allowed to rest at 125 degrees, the vanos valve is not suppling any oil the the cam phaser and even drains any oil pressure back into the pan. If the seal is not perfect, it allows air into the phaser causing a delay in rebuilding pressure when the valve is opened. That delay causes the fault.

The exhaust targets never let the exhaust vanos sit at rest. I looked at my N52 maps and neither inlet or exhaust ever set at rest position.

I can't help but wonder how much longer the new teflon inlet seals would last if the vanos idle target were changed to apply just a little pressure say 124 degrees instead of 125. I'll probably still fix the seal, but I'll always run my new vanos maps as preventative maintenance.

Probably something MHD should offer in their tunes, like wase gate rattle fix.

[C_Clancy26]

I have 2 things:
1. I had all the same codes as you im pretty sure, turns out i had rod knock but there was no real knocking sound. check your oil filter just incase.
2. the only other thing i could suggest might help since its been more than a year since they were replaced, is just try cleaning out the solenoids with brake cleaner. Probably won't do anything but ya never know.