[freemanjc]

Friends,

I have a 2006 330I with the professional L7 stereo which I think is decent for the average listener. However, I have had a System in every car I have ever owned (11) total. I was doing some searching on E90 Post but I never read a definitive answer on how to use for an installation.

Additionally, on JL website they have Clean Sweep® CL441-dsp, Clean Sweep® CL-SSI,
Clean Sweep® CL-SES and CL-RLC. My second question is which one is needed for just an aftermarket amp for subs with a ported box for two Twelve inch subs. I do believe the mid and highs I can live with, so my next question do I need to purchase and amp also for the mids and highs in the setup too. These are just a few things I am unsure about. Furthermore

Additionally, if using the JL Audio Cleanswwep, does this require me to seek out an Official JL Audio Installation shop for this job with the BMW, since the clean sweep is an item that JL Audio product.

I would greatly apreciate feedback.

r/

Freeway

[Technic]

Originally Posted by freemanjc

Friends,

I have a 2006 330I with the professional L7 stereo which I think is decent for the average listener. However, I have had a System in every car I have ever owned (11) total. I was doing some searching on E90 Post but I never read a definitive answer on how to use for an installation.

Additionally, on JL website they have Clean Sweep® CL441-dsp, Clean Sweep® CL-SSI,
Clean Sweep® CL-SES and CL-RLC. My second question is which one is needed for just an aftermarket amp for subs with a ported box for two Twelve inch subs. I do believe the mid and highs I can live with, so my next question do I need to purchase and amp also for the mids and highs in the setup too. These are just a few things I am unsure about. Furthermore

Additionally, if using the JL Audio Cleanswwep, does this require me to seek out an Official JL Audio Installation shop for this job with the BMW, since the clean sweep is an item that JL Audio product.

I would greatly apreciate feedback.

r/

Freeway

There's no need for a Cleansweep for adding just a sub, a line output converter or an amp with high level inputs with at least 70W max input capability will do nicely. You will need to tap the underseat subs inputs for that...

[RipsE92]

Do this .... can't go wrong.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=12

[VP Electricity]

Technic is correct - if all you are doing is adding a sub, a CleanSweep is really not needed.

OEM fronts on an OEM amp and two aftermarket twelves in a ported box - the Logic 7 tuning will not be your problem.

Take a look at this post:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66141

It is not for an L7 car but it is the same principle. The BMW amp adds equalization to the signal which is appropriate for the OEM speakers but not for aftermarket speakers. The CleanSweep is a de-equalizer which automatically tries to reverse the BMW EQ curve.

As you can see in the pic of the signal to the subs, the OEM EQ curve has a peak at 40, which is hardly going to be objectionable to someone who wants two 12" in a ported box. I think the L7 systems have a similar curve to the subs. If box is ported too high, you will have problems - a ported box unloads (loses all power handling) one-half octave below its tuning freq - so if you make a box tuned for 55, one octave down is 27.5, 1/2 octave down is about 40, you could have problems with flapping woofers - but that is a box design issue, not a CleanSweep issue.

I personally always recommend authorized dealers, but there are lots of moron authorized dealers. Best to find an installer who has done E90s and can provide references. If they have an RTA and can do tests like the ones in those pics I linked to, that would be great.

[freemanjc]

Thanks for all the feedback and I understand A little bit more. I just want to add some thump in my trunk.

However, I don't want to limit myself if I do plan on a full upgrade with all the doors speakers. My first priority is some smooth base that is lacking with the factory subs. I like ported subs because of Volume, rather than low bass. I have always found that they play a well assortment of music rather than a sealed enclosure, just my opinion though.

So what about this Audio Control LC8 (GRAY) and Audio Control LC6i (GRAY LC6) I've been hearing about. Is this better than the clean sweep due to it more tuning ability? So, here is a scenario for you all. I just gave each and every one of you my MasterCard. As you boss I told you to take my car to the audio store and tell them I wanted more bass. The ability to go low is important but clarity is the most significant aspect of the install with a potential to upgrade in the future.

What JL Clean sweeps items do I need to buy or Audio Control Equipment? I am not installing door speakers now but plan on doing that in the future. Which amp is Ideal for either of the two devices above? Please keep in mind of Business Acumen when using the company card. Keep in mind what you recommend is most likely what I am going to buy and as much as I like to be I am not rich! I just have Champaign taste on a beer income. “Light Beer at that”. My goal is to get the exact name of the components to buy and for what reason I need it. I

Thanks again

R,

Freeway

[freemanjc]

Originally Posted by RipsE92

Do this .... can't go wrong.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=12

RIP

Sent you a Private Message!

[VP Electricity]

The LC's do only two things (of which RIP is only using one):

- High-power step down from speaker signals

- Summing different channels together (something not required in many E90 systems).

The basic CS DSP44 is a stepdown that does NOT allow summing - they added an external summing module for that.

If you plan on installing door speakers, I would plan on getting a processor at that time.

RIP may or may not have needed the LC6 - the JL HD amps can take speaker level in, and you might have been able to run it straight in without the LC, I don't know. What I do know is that if you are doinga Front and Sub System off of a Logic 7 system, you don't want an LC6.

At present, the options for reversing L7 EQ processing are:

- JL CleanSweep DSP44 and summing module (auto-adjust only)

- Rockford 360.1 or .2 (auto-adjust with installer tuning option)

- AudioControl DQL8 (No auto adjust, requires RTA, not my fave)

- Zapco BTL adapters and DC amplifiers (no auto adjust, requires a PC with SW as well as RTA, few dealers)

- Zapco BTLs and DSP processor (costly, no auto adjust, reqires PC and RTA)

So what would I do? I would just buy an amp and subs, because by the time you want front speakers, new improved interface gear might be available.

As far as the amp goes, the JL HD is probably a good amp for you (the one mentioned earlier) and it might not require the LC6 at all. If you go with the LC6, plan on selling it when you get the rest of the system - OR, keep the LC6 and get the JL CleanSweep DSP44 WITHOUT the summing module (use the LC6 for that).

[freemanjc]

Thanks all,

IS there an alternative amp becuase that amp is a $649.99.

[freemanjc]

Thanks VP your help is deeply appreiated. I was think of this amp and was wondering is it possible to run the sub in the trunk (2) or (1) whcih ever I decide and the subs underneath the seat.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=44

1200W x 1 @ 1 Ohm
900W x 1 @ 2 Ohm
450W x 1 @ 4 Ohm
Height : 2.250"
Width : 9.850"
Length : 15.875"
Overall Length(w/ feet) : 17.175"

Signal to Noise Ratio >95dBA
Variable Input Sensitivity 150mV - 7.0V
Remote Variable Input Sensitivity No
Variable Low Pass X-Over 50-250Hz @ 24dB/octave
Variable High Pass X-Over None
Current & Thermal Protection Yes
Remote Gain Control Yes
Variable Phase Control Yes
Master / Slave Option Yes
Efficiency 64%
Variable SubSonic Filter 10-55Hz @ 24dB/octave
Fuse(s) 4 x 30A
Max Current Draw 130 Amps
Damping Factor 300
Warranty 5 Years

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

The LC's do only two things (of which RIP is only using one):

- High-power step down from speaker signals

- Summing different channels together (something not required in many E90 systems).

The basic CS DSP44 is a stepdown that does NOT allow summing - they added an external summing module for that.

If you plan on installing door speakers, I would plan on getting a processor at that time.

RIP may or may not have needed the LC6 - the JL HD amps can take speaker level in, and you might have been able to run it straight in without the LC, I don't know. What I do know is that if you are doinga Front and Sub System off of a Logic 7 system, you don't want an LC6.

At present, the options for reversing L7 EQ processing are:

- JL CleanSweep DSP44 and summing module (auto-adjust only)

- Rockford 360.1 or .2 (auto-adjust with installer tuning option)

- AudioControl DQL8 (No auto adjust, requires RTA, not my fave)

- Zapco BTL adapters and DC amplifiers (no auto adjust, requires a PC with SW as well as RTA, few dealers)

- Zapco BTLs and DSP processor (costly, no auto adjust, reqires PC and RTA)

So what would I do? I would just buy an amp and subs, because by the time you want front speakers, new improved interface gear might be available.

As far as the amp goes, the JL HD is probably a good amp for you (the one mentioned earlier) and it might not require the LC6 at all. If you go with the LC6, plan on selling it when you get the rest of the system - OR, keep the LC6 and get the JL CleanSweep DSP44 WITHOUT the summing module (use the LC6 for that).

[Technic]

Originally Posted by freemanjc

Thanks for all the feedback and I understand A little bit more. I just want to add some thump in my trunk.

However, I don't want to limit myself if I do plan on a full upgrade with all the doors speakers. My first priority is some smooth base that is lacking with the factory subs. I like ported subs because of Volume, rather than low bass. I have always found that they play a well assortment of music rather than a sealed enclosure, just my opinion though.

So what about this Audio Control LC8 (GRAY) and Audio Control LC6i (GRAY LC6) I've been hearing about. Is this better than the clean sweep due to it more tuning ability? So, here is a scenario for you all. I just gave each and every one of you my MasterCard. As you boss I told you to take my car to the audio store and tell them I wanted more bass. The ability to go low is important but clarity is the most significant aspect of the install with a potential to upgrade in the future.

What JL Clean sweeps items do I need to buy or Audio Control Equipment? I am not installing door speakers now but plan on doing that in the future. Which amp is Ideal for either of the two devices above? Please keep in mind of Business Acumen when using the company card. Keep in mind what you recommend is most likely what I am going to buy and as much as I like to be I am not rich! I just have Champaign taste on a beer income. “Light Beer at that”. My goal is to get the exact name of the components to buy and for what reason I need it. I

Thanks again

R,

Freeway

If it is just bass that you are looking for I would get:

- JL Audio Stealthbox: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1608
- JL Audio HD750/1: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483
- Navone N-RHL2 line output converter in a 100W max version (contact Navone and he will build you a custom LOC to the Logic7 sub outputs level specs): http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=362

The reason for these components is simple: they fit in the trunk of your car while not using too much space, they are of a high quality, and the bass will make you deaf... sorry. The HD amps are capable to be mounted above the OEM amp if your create a custom bracket and use the OEM CD Changer trim to hide it. Something like this:



If you want to eventually change your whole system you will either have to choose to defeat the Logic7 EQ manually or automatically, or you will have issues trying to tune your system.

To manually defeat the Logic7 system you will need to use an RTA and a processor/EQ. An Audiocontrol DQL-8 will do it without the need of any external LOC, but again it will take some effort to defeat that OEM equalization.

To automatically defeat that OEM equalization you will need a particular device that specifically performs that job. Right now there are 4 devices that perform just that -and a little extra:

- Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2
- Audison bit one
- JL Audio Cleansweep
- Alpine PXE-H650

The capabilities of each are better to be studied by going to each manufacturer site and downloading their user manuals. But in a quick description, I would take a look at the Cleansweep and to the 3SIXTY.2 first, as they are more commonly found in user reviews in the 'net.

For example, this is my old set up with a Cleansweep and an Audiocontrol DQXS: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183025

That setup is exactly what you can use in your Logic7, even pin by pin in the connections to the OEM amp, if you want to eventually replace the whole OEM system from the OEM amp to the speakers.

My new set up has the bit one processor replacing the Cleansweep 2 components and the DQXS in one single device. The problem right now with the bit one is that it is in the middle of revisions, as a considerable amount of the first units sold in the USA have noise issues. The new revised unit should be out by mid May.

The bit one is the unit that if you ask me straight, I will recommend over all of the others... once it is fixed.

Now, if you can wait -I don't know how long other than "soon"- you could get the mObridge Preamp DA2000 : http://www.mobridgeinc.com/products/preamp_DA2000

This device is capable of removing the OEM amp from your system completely and be plugged into the digital output of the OEM HU/iDrive and convert those digital signals into either 6 analog preamp channel ouputs or a Toslink digital output. No Cleansweep, no need to defeat any OEM processing or equalization: direct conversion from the source into a flat signal. So you can add any amplifier or any processor -having analog or Toslink inputs- of your preferrence after this device like any other aftermarket system.

Personally, I'm waiting for this device.

Hope that this helps.

[VP Electricity]

Technic, have you seen a bit one? The dealers I have talked so haven't seen it, so I don't know if it is shipping...

[Technic]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Technic, have you seen a bit one? The dealers I have talked so haven't seen it, so I don't know if it is shipping...

I have one... and had to send it back for an upgrade because it cannot handle my Individual Audio woofer high level outputs (some 200W peak/40V) and its remote control was acting up: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...3&postcount=75

It has been shipping since February.

When it worked it was beautiful, though...

[freemanjc]

Technic


Thanks, all I can say is wow! Still, I want to add some power to the under neath subs in the front and two twelve’s in the trunk. RipsE92 seems to have a nice set up hooking up his subs under neath and sub in the trunk.

So, what's the difference between the Audio Control LC6i line converter and the Navone N-RHL2 line output converter; color, expandability, looks, etc..? Also, I can't seem to find where to buy a JL Audio Stealth box online. I appreciate everyone’s input too, and it has not gone unnoticed on my part. I am deeply grateful to each and every one of you all.

r/

Freeway

Originally Posted by Technic

If it is just bass that you are looking for I would get:

- JL Audio Stealthbox: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_s...hp?fit_id=1608
- JL Audio HD750/1: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=483
- Navone N-RHL2 line output converter in a 100W max version (contact Navone and he will build you a custom LOC to the Logic7 sub outputs level specs): http://www.davidnavone.com/cart.asp?14&pid=362

The reason for these components is simple: they fit in the trunk of your car while not using too much space, they are of a high quality, and the bass will make you deaf... sorry. The HD amps are capable to be mounted above the OEM amp if your create a custom bracket and use the OEM CD Changer trim to hide it. Something like this:



If you want to eventually change your whole system you will either have to choose to defeat the Logic7 EQ manually or automatically, or you will have issues trying to tune your system.

To manually defeat the Logic7 system you will need to use an RTA and a processor/EQ. An Audiocontrol DQL-8 will do it without the need of any external LOC, but again it will take some effort to defeat that OEM equalization.

To automatically defeat that OEM equalization you will need a particular device that specifically performs that job. Right now there are 4 devices that perform just that -and a little extra:

- Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2
- Audison bit one
- JL Audio Cleansweep
- Alpine PXE-H650

The capabilities of each are better to be studied by going to each manufacturer site and downloading their user manuals. But in a quick description, I would take a look at the Cleansweep and to the 3SIXTY.2 first, as they are more commonly found in user reviews in the 'net.

For example, this is my old set up with a Cleansweep and an Audiocontrol DQXS: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183025

That setup is exactly what you can use in your Logic7, even pin by pin in the connections to the OEM amp, if you want to eventually replace the whole OEM system from the OEM amp to the speakers.

My new set up has the bit one processor replacing the Cleansweep 2 components and the DQXS in one single device. The problem right now with the bit one is that it is in the middle of revisions, as a considerable amount of the first units sold in the USA have noise issues. The new revised unit should be out by mid May.

The bit one is the unit that if you ask me straight, I will recommend over all of the others... once it is fixed.

Now, if you can wait -I don't know how long other than "soon"- you could get the mObridge Preamp DA2000 : http://www.mobridgeinc.com/products/preamp_DA2000

This device is capable of removing the OEM amp from your system completely and be plugged into the digital output of the OEM HU/iDrive and convert those digital signals into either 6 analog preamp channel ouputs or a Toslink digital output. No Cleansweep, no need to defeat any OEM processing or equalization: direct conversion from the source into a flat signal. So you can add any amplifier or any processor -having analog or Toslink inputs- of your preferrence after this device like any other aftermarket system.

Personally, I'm waiting for this device.

Hope that this helps.

[VP Electricity]

Don't get the navone.

[freemanjc]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Don't get the navone.

ok, then Audio Control LC6i line converter it is! Those JL are pricey, ant thoughts on the alpine PDX-5 - Alpine 5 Ch 600 Watt Digital Power Amplifier PDX5.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by freemanjc

Technic


Thanks, all I can say is wow! Still, I want to add some power to the under neath subs in the front and two twelve’s in the trunk. RipsE92 seems to have a nice set up hooking up his subs under neath and sub in the trunk.

So, what's the difference between the Audio Control LC6i line converter and the Navone N-RHL2 line output converter; color, expandability, looks, etc..? Also, I can't seem to find where to buy a JL Audio Stealth box online. I appreciate everyone’s input too, and it has not gone unnoticed on my part. I am deeply grateful to each and every one of you all.

r/

Freeway

Then get the LC6i and 4-channel amp in a 3-channel configuration... the difference between the Navone LOC and the LC6i is that the Navone is a passive 2-channel LOC with remote turn on for a quick and straight sub addition only, and the LC6i is an active LOC that can drive several channels with adjustable high voltage level output signals and multi-configurable inputs and outputs to match any amplifier that you can imagine.

So to add a trunk sub and amplify the underseat woofers then the LC6i is the best device for that job.