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      05-16-2009, 02:12 AM   #1
amlebede
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Trunk subwoofer only works when engine is on

I got my subwoofer installed by an audio shop and it only works when the engine is on. What is the issue? Is there a way around it?
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      05-16-2009, 02:30 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amlebede View Post
I got my subwoofer installed by an audio shop and it only works when the engine is on. What is the issue? Is there a way around it?
you shouldve ask audio shop to rewire it somehow.. ive seen it done.

does your headunit still work without the keys?
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      05-16-2009, 02:38 AM   #3
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Mind telling me where you went? I'm occasionally local.
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      05-16-2009, 02:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAcAvenger View Post
Mind telling me where you went? I'm occasionally local.
I prefer to keep the installer's name and company private at least for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iAerodynamic View Post
you shouldve ask audio shop to rewire it somehow.. ive seen it done.

does your headunit still work without the keys?
Without the keys, no. Without engine on but with key in, yes.
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      05-16-2009, 02:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amlebede View Post
Without the keys, no. Without engine on but with key in, yes.
that's weird.. i think they messed up i would take it back to them and tell them to fix it
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      05-16-2009, 02:49 AM   #6
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as far as i know, this is normal.....

i installed a sub and amp in my car and i wired the remote to my cig lighter which only powers on when either the engine is on, OR when you push the key in dont step on the brake and press start 2 times and everything should power on. i guess its just how the car is....?
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      05-16-2009, 02:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhst View Post
as far as i know, this is normal.....

i installed a sub and amp in my car and i wired the remote to my cig lighter which only powers on when either the engine is on, OR when you push the key in dont step on the brake and press start 2 times and everything should power on. i guess its just how the car is....?
I would agree with this. One of the shops in Chapel Hill (maybe it was Durham, it all blends in together to me) I went to was planning to wire to the cig lighter.

I wired my boost gauge to the cig lighter and it only comes on as Duhst described: Engine on or the double engine start press (Ignition on). I'm sure there's a non-switched power supply in the same general vicinity if you wanted it done that way, but i'm assuming it's common practice to put amps on switched power for drain issues.
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      05-16-2009, 10:53 AM   #8
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If you insist to get crappy installations by these so called "audio shops" then you deserve all the crappy and expensive installations that you ask for...

Using the 12V jack as a remote turn on in a BMW is so 1983 that I can see Magnum PI driving his Ferrari and laughing at you.

Too many threads in this forum have identified pin 13 in the back of the OEM HU/iDrive computer in the Logic7 system or pin 10 (thin black wire) in the OEM amp connector in the standard HiFi system as the real, OEM remote turn on wires.

A simple search should have given you that information.

Any other wire used for remote turn on is a sorry ass job, so you paid for -or did- a sorry ass job.
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      05-16-2009, 11:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
If you insist to get crappy installations by these so called "audio shops" then you deserve all the crappy and expensive installations that you ask for...

Using the 12V jack as a remote turn on in a BMW is so 1983 that I can see Magnum PI driving his Ferrari and laughing at you.

Too many threads in this forum have identified pin 13 in the back of the OEM HU/iDrive computer in the Logic7 system or pin 10 (thin black wire) in the OEM amp connector in the standard HiFi system as the real, OEM remote turn on wires.

A simple search should have given you that information.

Any other wire used for remote turn on is a sorry ass job, so you paid for -or did- a sorry ass job.
hahahah i hate people that just bash cause their bored!

GFTO!
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      05-16-2009, 11:10 AM   #10
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Preach it, brother! Amen!
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      05-16-2009, 11:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhst View Post
hahahah i hate people that just bash cause their bored!

GFTO!
You, sir, are a tool.
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      05-19-2009, 08:16 AM   #12
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I have to side with Technic on this one. Using the wrong wire for remote power on is an amateur move easily fixed with a brief search on this forum. If I paid for an install with this problem I'd turn the car around and have them fix it with a great big WTF.

There are many good installers who take their craft seriously.
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      05-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhst View Post
hahahah i hate people that just bash cause their bored!

GFTO!
what's GFTO?

you can't exactly call yourself a pro if you're doing it wrong.
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      05-19-2009, 05:33 PM   #14
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I would think it's a good thing that the sub works only when the engine is on, that way you won't kill the battery. The OP also said that the headunit works with the keys in, but engine off. All sounds right to me.
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      05-20-2009, 07:47 AM   #15
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the accessory power turns itself off in 5 minutes to prevent draining the battery. wiring one component, the sub, differently is not required.
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      05-20-2009, 12:09 PM   #16
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People, instead of criticize the man, we should give recommendations. I had problems using the black remote that comes from the OEM HU. For a weird reason, it does not work to turn on my aftermarket amp. I suppose that the voltage is low. Instead I used the peripheral sven for remote. It use the signal of the OEM HU output channel for remote. In this way the amp turns on when the OEM HU is on.
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      05-20-2009, 07:40 PM   #17
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fair enough

In my case I have the pro setup and I took the remote wire from the harness in the trunk (from the HU).

My trusty voltmeter showed 11 and change - but here's the important bit - the ground selected made a *huge* difference.

Using the brown wired ground block over the wheel well on both sides yielded a good voltage. Using anything else (bolt / chasis / etc) did not.

All of my amps, basslink sub, EQ are all grounded to this location on either side.
Not the battery or a stray hunk of exposed metal.
Everything is powered up properly in this configuration.
(no amp noise and hiss either)

ground matters

Last edited by fdiprete; 05-24-2009 at 09:38 AM..
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      05-20-2009, 08:01 PM   #18
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if you don't have CD changer option, next to your AMP is a connection(along with an optical connector) for that option, which you can use as a remote on for your AMP. I've been using this for around 2 yrs now. but the problem is that it is still active until the car goes into sleep mode (like 30mins after you shut down the car).

now reading this thread, I may go back and use "pin 10 (thin black wire) in the OEM amp connector in the standard HiFi system as the real, OEM remote turn on wires." as one member mentioned above. assuming the pin cut the power right away
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      05-28-2009, 01:13 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post

Using the 12V jack as a remote turn on in a BMW is so 1983 that I can see Magnum PI driving his Ferrari and laughing at you.
, the good old days....
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