[bimmer01]

I have been doing some research on a subwoofer upgrade for my 2008 328i and I really like the idea of the Earthquake underseat sub upgrades. I would like to find a shop with experience doing this install in my area and have it professionally done as I know very little about stereo work and am not comfortable with wiring. So a couple of questions:
1. What amp would you recommend?
2. Should I get the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version of the SWS-8's?
3. I live in coastal south carolina, is there a reputable installer with experience doing this particular install in charleston sc, myrtle beach sc, or wilmington nc?

[norcal330]

It's really not as bad as you might think. In my case, it was a basic amp install (made easier by the locations of the battery and OEM amp in the trunk). I also used a PAC-Trunk-LOC which made it VERY easy to get the signal from the OEM amp AND solve the remote wire problem. I then went from the amp right back to the OEM speaker wire going to the subs (so NO new speaker wire was run). From there it was just a matter of unscrewing 4 torx screws, propping the seats backward, removing the grills and then the sub enclosures, dynamatting the enclosures and then replacing the OEM subs with SWS-8's. Re-install sub enclosures and enjoy.

Probably took 6-8 hours total at a leisurely pace. best of all, I could ensure that everything was done right and no corners were cut to save $$$.

As far as the amp goes, I had an old Alpine MRV-100M in the garage which fit perfectly right above the OEM amp location. it only puts out 200 Watts RMS, but even with the gain only set at 1/3, the sounds is nice and clean and puts out plenty of bass. A newer model would be the Alpine MRP-M350 which puts out 350 Watts at 2 Ohms. You really don't need more than this. with this amp, you would want (2) 4-Ohm subs to present a 2-Ohm load to the amp.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by norcal330

It's really not as bad as you might think. In my case, it was a basic amp install (made easier by the locations of the battery and OEM amp in the trunk). I also used a PAC-Trunk-LOC which made it VERY easy to get the signal from the OEM amp AND solve the remote wire problem. I then went from the amp right back to the OEM speaker wire going to the subs (so NO new speaker wire was run). From there it was just a matter of unscrewing 4 torx screws, propping the seats backward, removing the grills and then the sub enclosures, dynamatting the enclosures and then replacing the OEM subs with SWS-8's. Re-install sub enclosures and enjoy.

Probably took 6-8 hours total at a leisurely pace. best of all, I could ensure that everything was done right and no corners were cut to save $$$.

As far as the amp goes, I had an old Alpine MRV-100M in the garage which fit perfectly right above the OEM amp location. it only puts out 200 Watts RMS, but even with the gain only set at 1/3, the sounds is nice and clean and puts out plenty of bass. A newer model would be the Alpine MRP-M350 which puts out 350 Watts at 2 Ohms. You really don't need more than this. with this amp, you would want (2) 4-Ohm subs to present a 2-Ohm load to the amp.

Did you use 2ohm SWS or the 4ohm?

I got the 2ohm, my RF will run like 215rms to 2 2ohm drivers.
I was contemplating doing 4ohm and bridging to 2ohm, and getting 425rms, but that's feeding 2 drivers.

This "pac/loc" unit, did you use it between the HU outputs to the amp in? Is this a line driver?

The more I listen to the base 1 series system, the more I think I'll not use the 12" sub I have for the trunk. I think there will be plenty of sub bass with the SWS drivers and the 4ch amp. After that I'll evaluate the OEM comps. I've got a set of Audiobahn 6.5's, the Q series.
I may try to make them fit. The mount depth is a bit under 2", but I won't know till I open the doors.

Also, I was considering an active xover between the HU out and the amp, but since I'm not doing a 3 way, I'm thinking of just using the RF amp onboard xover's, which are a decent design, high pass front and low pass rear/sub. I'll leave the OEM rears powered off the OEM amp, but I'll probably not use it. I may just use the HU rear ch to drive the sub signal, that way I can use the fader to control sub balance when needed.

So, I might need a line driver. All I have now is a peripheral balanced to RCA converter that I used in my 325i upgrade. It worked just fine, but I may want to try for a stronger, clenaer pre signal.
Let me know about the "pac loc" unit.
Thanks.

[VP Electricity]

The PAC is a line output converter from speaker-level to RCA, and he is using it on the OE amp output to the subs. That is what I would recommend for a sub-only install. I would not go direct from the HU if all you are doing is adding subs.

That means you need no xover because the OE amp has one already.

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by RPM90

Did you use 2ohm SWS or the 4ohm?

I got the 2ohm, my RF will run like 215rms to 2 2ohm drivers.
I was contemplating doing 4ohm and bridging to 2ohm, and getting 425rms, but that's feeding 2 drivers.

This "pac/loc" unit, did you use it between the HU outputs to the amp in? Is this a line driver?

The more I listen to the base 1 series system, the more I think I'll not use the 12" sub I have for the trunk. I think there will be plenty of sub bass with the SWS drivers and the 4ch amp. After that I'll evaluate the OEM comps. I've got a set of Audiobahn 6.5's, the Q series.
I may try to make them fit. The mount depth is a bit under 2", but I won't know till I open the doors.

Also, I was considering an active xover between the HU out and the amp, but since I'm not doing a 3 way, I'm thinking of just using the RF amp onboard xover's, which are a decent design, high pass front and low pass rear/sub. I'll leave the OEM rears powered off the OEM amp, but I'll probably not use it. I may just use the HU rear ch to drive the sub signal, that way I can use the fader to control sub balance when needed.

So, I might need a line driver. All I have now is a peripheral balanced to RCA converter that I used in my 325i upgrade. It worked just fine, but I may want to try for a stronger, clenaer pre signal.
Let me know about the "pac loc" unit.
Thanks.

I used 2- 4-ohm sws-8's wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load.

The PAC-Trunk-LOC is a simple LOC (Line-Put converter aka high-low converter). Gives you a cleaner low-level RCA output from the speaker input. It's hooked up after the OEM amp.

One of the best features of the Trunk-LOC is that it provides a simple remote turn-on lead for the aftermarket amp you use. Based on the research I've done, there really is no suitable remote lead in the trunk area.

I would only install a sub in the trunk if I had fold-down rear seats and after trying out the SWS-8's, which I feel provide plenty of bass.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

The PAC is a line output converter from speaker-level to RCA, and he is using it on the OE amp output to the subs. That is what I would recommend for a sub-only install. I would not go direct from the HU if all you are doing is adding subs.

That means you need no xover because the OE amp has one already.

Perhaps you're referencing the "premium hi fi" OEM setup?
I don't have that one. I opted for the base unit knowing I would upgrade.

I may keep the OEM comps, but they will be driven by the RF 4ch amp. I want to hear the OEM comps with a good amp to see what they can do. I'll probably end up replacing the comps anyway though. I doubt they are better than even moderatly priced aftermarket drivers.

I'm getting the signal from the HU before the amp.
There is no need to go after the amp. The signal is cleaner, from the HU, and no OEM amp "fiddling". Also, the OEM amp won't need to power anything this way.

I have a peripheral line converter, balanced to RCA line level.
As I said, I used this in my 325i.
I was/am considering an active xover to provide some signal gain, but the RF amp has good electronics to help boost the signal, and it's supposed to have decent built in xover's.
I've used it before and it did a great job with HU signal, built in xover, and passive xover on the comps.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by norcal330

I used 2- 4-ohm sws-8's wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load.

The PAC-Trunk-LOC is a simple LOC (Line-Put converter aka high-low converter). Gives you a cleaner low-level RCA output from the speaker input. It's hooked up after the OEM amp.

One of the best features of the Trunk-LOC is that it provides a simple remote turn-on lead for the aftermarket amp you use. Based on the research I've done, there really is no suitable remote lead in the trunk area.

I would only install a sub in the trunk if I had fold-down rear seats and after trying out the SWS-8's, which I feel provide plenty of bass.

I do have split fold down rear seats. I believe all 1 series have them.
Given what you and others have said, I think the SWS upgrade with the RF amp will give me what I want for the bass, then I'll upgrade the comps.

I'm going to seal off the OEM sub box, maybe put some Bquiet around or in it, and polyfill the inside.
I started a thread in the 1 series forum about the prospect of mounting the SWS subs firing downward. But, I don't know if it will fit, or if it will sound good. I may try it though just for fun.

I do need to find a 12V turn on. The E46 325i had a remote turn on in the audio wiring harness, I think, because i didn't use anything special for it.

[bimmer01]

I feel like you guys are speaking a foreign language. Amp recommendation? Good shop to have this done?

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by bimmer01

I feel like you guys are speaking a foreign language. Amp recommendation? Good shop to have this done?

I gave you an amp rec. The Alpine MRP-M350. It's more than enough for 2 SWS-8's and it's also very compact, so install would be simple in any variety of locations. Can't help you with the installer recommendation.

Really, the installation is quite simple. I really just do not trust most audio install shops. The work is shoddy and they're generally trying to slap everything together as quickly as possible. Of course, there are quality installation shops out there, but then you're looking at an $800-$900 install for what should only cost $300 and only 5-6 hours to do on your own. Anyways, that's just my $.02.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by bimmer01

I have been doing some research on a subwoofer upgrade for my 2008 328i and I really like the idea of the Earthquake underseat sub upgrades. I would like to find a shop with experience doing this install in my area and have it professionally done as I know very little about stereo work and am not comfortable with wiring. So a couple of questions:
1. What amp would you recommend?
2. Should I get the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version of the SWS-8's?
3. I live in coastal south carolina, is there a reputable installer with experience doing this particular install in charleston sc, myrtle beach sc, or wilmington nc?

Have you taken a look at this? http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163804

[ellipsis212]

^^^^ can't load that pdf tutorial for some reason

[bimmer01]

That is a pretty awesome tutorial on how to do the install, but i would clasify it as APBFJ! (A pretty big f*@%ing job) But i may be able to provide this information to someone capable of this type of work and have them do it. I don't need to gat an earthquake amp though do I? I like the idea of the alpine. Also, I appreciate all of the info, i wasn't trying to be ungrateful, but I really don't know much about stereo work. I've installed a couple of head units but thats it. The wiring thing has always made me nervous, as in fire, lol!

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by bimmer01

That is a pretty awesome tutorial on how to do the install, but i would clasify it as APBFJ! (A pretty big f*@%ing job) But i may be able to provide this information to someone capable of this type of work and have them do it. I don't need to gat an earthquake amp though do I? I like the idea of the alpine. Also, I appreciate all of the info, i wasn't trying to be ungrateful, but I really don't know much about stereo work. I've installed a couple of head units but thats it. The wiring thing has always made me nervous, as in fire, lol!

I would say that this really is no more difficult than a head unit installation.

In simplified terms...

- Disconnect battery
- Run a power wire to new amp
- Run a ground from amp to chassis (There's one very close to the OEM amp)
- splice in to OEM speaker outputs and install an LOC or use an amp with high-level inputs
- speaker outputs can be spliced right back to OEM subwoofer wires
- unscrew seats (4 screws)
- remove grill and enclosure (8 screws/side). Enclosures basically slide right out.
- Remove OEM subs (4 screws)
- Dynamat enclosure (optional) and polyfill
- Run new speaker wire from SWS-8's to OEM wiring and drop in SWS-8 subs (I used 3/8 x3'8" weatherstripping as a "spacer")
- Re-install enclosure, screw back grill.
- Screw seats back in.

[dejav0o]

Originally Posted by norcal330

I would say that this really is no more difficult than a head unit installation.

In simplified terms...

- Disconnect battery
- Run a power wire to new amp
- Run a ground from amp to chassis (There's one very close to the OEM amp)
- splice in to OEM speaker outputs and install an LOC or use an amp with high-level inputs
- speaker outputs can be spliced right back to OEM subwoofer wires
- unscrew seats (4 screws)
- remove grill and enclosure (8 screws/side). Enclosures basically slide right out.
- Remove OEM subs (4 screws)
- Dynamat enclosure (optional) and polyfill
- Run new speaker wire from SWS-8's to OEM wiring and drop in SWS-8 subs (I used 3/8 x3'8" weatherstripping as a "spacer")
- Re-install enclosure, screw back grill.
- Screw seats back in.

Sorry to have to over-simplify things (I'm the type that has be able to imagine the whole thing before I go out and attempt it), but when you said you spliced the sub output wires, do you actually mean you "cut" the wires and just attached that to the LOC? Splicing the wires means that you just exposed the metal part under the insulation and just tapped into it with the LOC.

From what I imagine, we would:
1) Cut speaker cables from amp to subs
2) Connect the end that comes from the stock amp into the LOC.
3) Connect LOC to aftermark amp
4) Connect speaker output from aftermarket amp, to the remaining exposed side of the wires from step 1.

Please confirm if that's correct?

Also I read the pdf above and it seems like he just left the sub enclosure open so that the sub doesn't hit off the metal cage. Is it possible to just get some metal spacers to raise this cage a bit? And finally, what does the pollyfill do if you'e already added dynamat to the enclosure?

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by dejav0o

Sorry to have to over-simplify things (I'm the type that has be able to imagine the whole thing before I go out and attempt it), but when you said you spliced the sub output wires, do you actually mean you "cut" the wires and just attached that to the LOC? Splicing the wires means that you just exposed the metal part under the insulation and just tapped into it with the LOC.

From what I imagine, we would:
1) Cut speaker cables from amp to subs
2) Connect the end that comes from the stock amp into the LOC.
3) Connect LOC to aftermark amp
4) Connect speaker output from aftermarket amp, to the remaining exposed side of the wires from step 1.

Please confirm if that's correct?

Also I read the pdf above and it seems like he just left the sub enclosure open so that the sub doesn't hit off the metal cage. Is it possible to just get some metal spacers to raise this cage a bit? And finally, what does the pollyfill do if you'e already added dynamat to the enclosure?

Yes, what you described above is correct. In my case, it was a very simple installation. Cut 4 OEM sub wires and connect to LOC high-level input wires, connect LOC to Amp with RCA, amp speaker outs connect to the OEM wires going to sub. Of course, there are other wires associated with the LOC that need to be connected (power/ground/remote), but this was also very simple.

As for the enclosures, if you trim the little "ribs' at the bottom of the enclosures, and used a spacer of some kind between the sub & enclosure, it won't be a problem to put the grills right back on.

The Polyfill is what some people do when they're working with really small enclosures. It is supposed to make the enclosure "act" bigger than it is, and some feel it increases output a tad. Of course, most of this can probably be chalked up to placebo effect, but I've always been able to notice *some* improvement. As always, YMMV...

[Technic]

If what you are really looking for is the easiest installation then get this;

- JL Audio 300/2v2 amp - http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=436
- JL Audio RCA to Speaker Wire Plugs cable - http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...l.php?cat_id=5
- SWS-8 in either the 4 or 2 ohms.
- follow the DIY to install the SWS-8 in the enclosure only.

To install the amp you need to tell me first what sound system do you have, standard or Logic7, and then I can tell you exactly how to connect this JL amp the easiest possible.

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by Technic

If what you are really looking for is the easiest installation then get this;

- JL Audio 300/2v2 amp - http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=436
- JL Audio RCA to Speaker Wire Plugs cable - http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...l.php?cat_id=5
- SWS-8 in either the 4 or 2 ohms.
- follow the DIY to install the SWS-8 in the enclosure only.

To install the amp you need to tell me first what sound system do you have, standard or Logic7, and then I can tell you exactly how to connect this JL amp the easiest possible.

Wow, that does look easy, although 1) this amp is relatively large, which limits installation possibilities a bit, and 2) does the amp have remote turn-on capabilities? I scoured the forum and did some testing of my own and could not find a suitable remote turn-on wire for the amp I used (the OEM remote wire didn't supply enough voltage). This made the use of the TRUNK-LOC the easiest way to go for my install.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by norcal330

Wow, that does look easy, although 1) this amp is relatively large, which limits installation possibilities a bit, and 2) does the amp have remote turn-on capabilities? I scoured the forum and did some testing of my own and could not find a suitable remote turn-on wire for the amp I used (the OEM remote wire didn't supply enough voltage). This made the use of the TRUNK-LOC the easiest way to go for my install.

The 300/2v2 is less that 14" long so you can install it either in the left side of the trunk standing with the heat sinks up or under your rear deck depending of how much work you want to do.

It does have high level inputs and signal sensing, so a separate LOC or remote signal is not needed. Just a straight connection using the wire to RCA cable.

What kind of OEM system do you have?

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by Technic

The 300/2v2 is less that 14" long so you can install it either in the left side of the trunk standing with the heat sinks up or under your rear deck depending of how much work you want to do.

It does have high level inputs and signal sensing, so a separate LOC or remote signal is not needed. Just a straight connection using the wire to RCA cable.

What kind of OEM system do you have?

I have Logic7, now slightly upgraded with 2 Earthquake SWS-8's and an old Alpine MRV-100M amp (which I love because it's 10" x 7" and fits perfectly right above the OEM amp), along with some inexpensive RE-Audio silk-dome tweeters I used to swap out the Logic7 tweets. Of course, I would love to go completely nuts with a new head-unit, amp, new comps, etc, etc, but I just don't have the time or the energy these days.

[Technic]

Originally Posted by norcal330

I have Logic7, now slightly upgraded with 2 Earthquake SWS-8's and an old Alpine MRV-100M amp (which I love because it's 10" x 7" and fits perfectly right above the OEM amp), along with some inexpensive RE-Audio silk-dome tweeters I used to swap out the Logic7 tweets. Of course, I would love to go completely nuts with a new head-unit, amp, new comps, etc, etc, but I just don't have the time or the energy these days.

Sorry, I got confused... my recommendation and question are to the OP.

[fdiprete]

Originally Posted by bimmer01

That is a pretty awesome tutorial on how to do the install, but i would clasify it as APBFJ! (A pretty big f*@%ing job) But i may be able to provide this information to someone capable of this type of work and have them do it. I don't need to gat an earthquake amp though do I? I like the idea of the alpine. Also, I appreciate all of the info, i wasn't trying to be ungrateful, but I really don't know much about stereo work. I've installed a couple of head units but thats it. The wiring thing has always made me nervous, as in fire, lol!

I did it myself and yes it is APBFJ. Took most of the day. Advil required.
Personally I opted to do it myself because I care about my car and I am not afraid - just GTOFTS (getting too old for this sh*t)
It's a personal decision.

Finding a good installer familiar with BMW sound systems is tricky, however fairly easy to screen for if you ask the right questions. Since this is a fairly common stereo mod, you should be able to call an installer and ask, "can you do an SWS sub installation in my BMW e90?"

If they cannot answer you in about 5 seconds, say goodbye.
If they tell you to replace everything, hang up. They are trying to upsell into something they *are* familiar with. The answer should be "no probelm, we've done X of them"

People here will have excellent advice on what gear to buy - and why.

[norcal330]

Originally Posted by fdiprete

I did it myself and yes it is APBFJ. Took most of the day. Advil required.
Personally I opted to do it myself because I care about my car and I am not afraid - just GTOFTS (getting too old for this sh*t)
It's a personal decision.

Finding a good installer familiar with BMW sound systems is tricky, however fairly easy to screen for if you ask the right questions. Since this is a fairly common stereo mod, you should be able to call an installer and ask, "can you do an SWS sub installation in my BMW e90?"

If they cannot answer you in about 5 seconds, say goodbye.
If they tell you to replace everything, hang up. They are trying to upsell into something they *are* familiar with. The answer should be "no probelm, we've done X of them"

People here will have excellent advice on what gear to buy - and why.

Too funny. I'm no spring chicken either, but I still found the install NTFB (Not Too F-in Bad). Yes, it's a 2-3 beer job, and yes, your wife won't appreciate you being in the garage "taking care of a few things" for about 6-7 hours on a Saturday afternoon while she runs all the errands you were supposed to be doing. But at the end of the day, there's the satisfaction of A) doing it yourself B) saving yourself about $300-$400 and best of all, C) knowing that the only one to lay their hands on your "precious" was yourself. Plus, it just sounds better when you do it yourself...