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Life span of OEM Sport suspension
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10-26-2009, 01:40 AM | #1 |
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Life span of OEM Sport suspension
I have a 06 330i i have 19' wheels 245 in the front 265 in the rear with general tires. i have 44k miles on my car. i just had my car at the dealers last week and tire pressure is fine.
but i was driving my car sport this weekend arround some turns and hard on the brakes a few times and my front suspension felt way to soft. i did a little bit a sollom and it seemed way too sloppy. when i got out of my car i pushed down on my front end and it bounces and isnt as firm as i remember it. my driving style: i dont drive fast everywhere, but i do like on-ramps to freeways and over passes. whats going on with my car? im sure someone has asked this before but im busy studing for midterms this week and dont want to get too distracted so dont bash me saying i should "Search" |
10-26-2009, 12:40 PM | #2 |
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It depends on a variety of factors including driving style and road conditions but typical lifespan for the factory shocks is 60-70k miles. They can last more or less depending on how hard you are on them.
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11-08-2009, 01:22 PM | #4 |
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is this assuming an average annual mileage? mine is an '06 but doesn't get driven that much
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11-09-2009, 11:29 AM | #5 | |
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General tires will give you a soft feeling suspension in my experience. Very dull turn in. You should start with that. Tires are the single biggest improvement you can make.
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11-09-2009, 12:22 PM | #6 |
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+1. Lighter wheels and extreme performance tires. 19" 245/265 Generals is like running in combat boots.
Might want to start thinking about a set of Bilstein ride controls, easier to justify an upgrade when you can make the excuse that the old stuff is wearing out and needs replacement anyway... But in truth the OEM springs and dampers should last at least 60k - 100k miles.
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11-09-2009, 01:01 PM | #7 |
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Figure about 15k miles a year is high average annual mileage. If you drive less, you can extend the length of time but the mileage still applies. So if it takes you 5 years to reach 60k miles versus 4, you will replace your shocks in 5 years instead of 4.
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11-09-2009, 01:39 PM | #8 | ||
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If you're at that mileage and you're going to replace your shocks, you should do the strut mounts on the front and on the rear you can replace the upper bushings which sit against the body (top) since you have the parts out.
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11-09-2009, 01:47 PM | #9 |
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My sport suspension is for sale. Took it off with less than 2k miles.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317400
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11-09-2009, 01:59 PM | #10 | |
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11-09-2009, 02:07 PM | #11 |
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Yeah might as well replace those and use M3 parts, but you don't need to do it at the same time as shocks per se. The install of one doesn't really affect the other, but if you do them at the same time then you just do 1 alignment afterwards.
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11-09-2009, 02:28 PM | #12 |
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+1 on the M3 upgraded parts and BTW my stock struts were gone at 60K or so. I have had the M3 parts on since 95k miles and they are holding up great.
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11-09-2009, 02:41 PM | #13 |
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The rear subframe bushings get pretty beat up too and should be replaced (preferably with M3 parts again) but the install is pretty pricey and hard to DIY as you need a specific press to install the parts.
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11-09-2009, 11:08 PM | #14 |
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Watching this thread as I'm chasing down a recent onset of busy "twitchy" yaw movements (kinda like tight tramlining mixed with slightly misaligned wheels, but different).
With the car on the ground, I went around and yanked on all the wheels, top and sides. Turns out my right front wheel has a slight clunk and play when grabbed at the top and muscled in/out. Sounds to me like the audible clunk is located back behind the disc and slightly up a bit, though any movement is too subtle to tell if it's isolated about the spindle (wheel bearing) or somewhere in the strut assembly (eg the base of the strut where it meets the wheel carrier). I have to assume the lower links are fine as the car's on the ground and I'm not a giant green muscle dude. Any good tricks to isolate wheel bearing vs one of the suspension links vs something funky with strut or its upper bushing? Fwiw, the old lean-on-the-fender test feels normal on all corners... gonna go poke around a bit more. (52k miles, no track time, one BMWCCA course. Most of the miles are split between the Bay Area's chopped & minced concrete freeways and somewhat forgotten old-school "that'll-do" winding back roads paved by throwing shovels of asphalt over cow paths.)
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11-10-2009, 02:39 PM | #15 |
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First thing I woudl check is the bearings, but it could be a tie rod (although that is going to change your toe, more than your camber). I would be surprised if it had something to do with the strut. You need to get that wheel in the air.
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11-10-2009, 02:48 PM | #16 | |
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Try moving it around while the wheel is off the ground. And the strut only really has 2 points of contact. At the upper strut mount and then at the lower pinch point on the spindle. It is much more likely that it's either a wheel bearing, tie rod, or a tension rod bushing that's shot.
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11-12-2009, 10:45 PM | #17 |
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So, would it be entirely possible that people with sports suspension should be looking to go new shocks (and possibly new springs) at around 50k?
Or is it just personal preference? |
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11-25-2009, 11:55 PM | #20 | |
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I'm at 67k miles and noticed that the suspension isn't as "tight" around corners or uneven roads. When you guys speak of M3 parts or performance upgrade. Are you refering to something like this: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...catalogid=4462 Or something else? Thanks for the help in advance. |
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11-26-2009, 03:31 PM | #21 | |
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need to do a search here. try searching on "m3" or posts from Harold at HP autowerks
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11-27-2009, 11:13 AM | #22 | |
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Left Wishbone link--31102283577 Right Wishbone link--31102283578 Left Tension Strut --31102283575 Right Tension Strut--31102283576 If you want you can do the tension struts only, if you want to stick with stock camber. You might want to think about shocks and struts also, you are around the same mileage I was at when I started having issues. I went the Bilstein HD route to stay at the stock ride height with longer life span than stock. They are alot firmer than stock but not to firm. Read this thread about the M3 parts. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184925
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