[JohnnyCanuck]

I've read through a number of these threads, and I'm actually starting to confuse myself. Normally, getting my head around upgrading factory audio is pretty easy for me, but there seem to be so many differing ways of going about this that I need wisdom and guidance!

I have a new E90 LCI (2009 328i xDrive) with "BMW Professional" audio. I think that's the same as HiFi. In any event, there are two subs under my front seats, mids in the front doors, and tweeters in the A-Pillars. Haven't really looked at the rear deck, but I assume that there's four more speakers there.

Obviously no iDrive or Logic7.

The easiest labour option is to go with the BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrades and then wait for the Stage 2 Amp upgrade from BSW. No doubt that will improve my factory sound and be the easiest install solution, but by the time I pay taxes, shipping to Canada, etc ... we're talking about $1700 Canadian. It seems to me that I should be able to do something better (especially without having to wait for the Stage 2 development to be complete).

Where my confusion starts is in deciphering the amplifier situation. I'm not sure whether I have one amp or a separate amp for my subs. I have two units in my trunk. If it's not two amps, is one some sort of control unit?

The one is under the plastic panel in the rearmost left corner (I think the CD Changer is designed to mount on top of this panel?). The second one is under the trunk floor carpet just behind the seats in the middle (if I lift up and out the centre carpet section this is what I see... pic of location and unit).

So ... are both amps? If so, which is the sub amp? Is there any reason I can't pull the amp(s) and reuse the wiring that's there (both from the headunit and to the speakers)? Am I completely off the map here?

Product suggestions and ideas welcome ... most welcome!

[Pseudo Nim]

Afaik the unit you show in the pic is a telematics unit, nothing to do with audio. You can actually search for the product #; I did it a few months ago when I was planning my car PC upgrade, and I remember finding out that it had nothing to do with what I needed, and promptly forgot about what it did.

The amp is, indeed, in the left side panel where the CD changer bracket is supposed to go.

The empty space next to the telematics unit is for a sat radio upgrade - or for anything else that you manage to fit there.

[JohnnyCanuck]

Thanks ... you're right, did the search on RealOEM and part numbers beginning with 84 10 are Telematics units.

So is that amp 4 or 6 channels? Can I access all the speaker wiring and head unit outputs from that one harness?

[TMR]

i wish someone would post a way to get a pair of RCA's via summing or any other way so i can power the whole system with aftermarket amps. Where is that company that was going to make a converter that plugged right in?

[JohnnyCanuck]

As I'm poking around this more, I am kind of settling on a 5-channel amp. Depending on where I buy and pricing, something like a PDX5 would fit the bill, or maybe an HD900.

As for speakers, I think I have a fair number of options in replacing the mids and tweeters. Looking at either the Hertz ET20/EM100 combo or Focal 100 KRS ... any thoughts on these?

With respect to the subs, I am a little torn. The Earthquakes are not easy to come by around here so I can either leave the OEM subs in there for now running from the OEM amp, or drop a sub in the trunk (or both). But, looking at the sizing of the OEM speaker, what I've found on the net is that the SWS-8 has a mounting depth of 2.125 inches. Wouldn't something like the Pioneer TS-SW841D (top mount depth of 2.5") work? Is there any other product out there?

Thanks ...

[VP Electricity]

Hi, chiming in.

As far as plug-in converters, no, no one has made one yet due to the low volumes. A forum member is working on one... but as I always say, it's only copper wire, they make cars with it every day

I seriously would suggest a comp set with a low-xover silk soft dome over a silk,metal, or hard-material tweeter with a higher xover point. Those sound detailed at first, but often bright and hard - and they have a more distant, less detailed midrange (since the 4" cone is off axis, its top end is rolled off from the listening position by the laws of physics).

The Rainbow Dream Line and Sound Line 210, the Morel Dotech and Hybrid Ovation, and the Hertz HSK100 set are all good. I am thinking about taking out my Morel HO and making a "musicar" set but it would be very pricey.

There are no competitors for the EQ yet. I suspect that there is one company working on it but at present that's it. If you can't find any, let me know via PM.

The PDX works per many forum members but has some noise issues. The HD sounds great, just costs more. (Hey, Hondas work, but we bought a BMW - why skimp now?

[dolby]

Here is how I finished out my system. It was the HiFi, so it should match your stock system. The amp with the help of a custom bracket went in the OEM amp location and is completely hidden.

Amp - JL Audio HD900/5
Speakers - Focal 100 VRS Components - Front and rear.
Subs - Earthquake SWS-8
Processor - Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2

Hope that helps,

dolby

[Diggy335i]

How does your system sound with that setup?
I'm thinking of going with the same setup

Originally Posted by dolby

Here is how I finished out my system. It was the HiFi, so it should match your stock system. The amp with the help of a custom bracket went in the OEM amp location and is completely hidden.

Amp - JL Audio HD900/5
Speakers - Focal 100 VRS Components - Front and rear.
Subs - Earthquake SWS-8
Processor - Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2

Hope that helps,

dolby

[JohnnyCanuck]

Actually, that helps a lot.

Part of the issue is that I haven't decided whether I want to make this a DIY or have a reputable shop do it. If it's a shop, I kind of want to keep product choice as much in their wheelhouse as possible. Fortunately, the shops I am considering both carry Hertz and Alpine. One also carries JL.

The Hertz HSK100's are not on their website anymore so I am wondering if they've been discontinued.

If I go Focal, I was leaning towards the KRS over the VRS because I'm not sure that the VRS won't be too bright. Misplaced concern?

[VP Electricity]

They have not been on the website in years... the kit might have been assembled by the US importer.

Dolby, why did you use a 360.2? (Don't tell me what it does (I know that : ) I am wondering why you used it when you could have taken the signal straight into the JL amp.)

[JohnnyCanuck]

What's in the kit? I would assume the HT20's but there is no HV100 on their website either ... is it an unlisted product? I have asked one of the local Hertz dealers whether they have any info on it.

[dolby]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCanuck

If I go Focal, I was leaning towards the KRS over the VRS because I'm not sure that the VRS won't be too bright. Misplaced concern?

In selecting my components, I choose the VRS because I knew thew would fit. I don't know if the KRS will fit in the doors. As for being to bright, there is an attenuator switch in the crossovers to back them down if needed. BUt in my system after smoothing it out with an RTA I left the switches in the 0db setting.

Dolby

[dolby]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Dolby, why did you use a 360.2? (Don't tell me what it does (I know that : ) I am wondering why you used it when you could have taken the signal straight into the JL amp.)

VP,


I wanted the 360.2 for the EQ and time alignment. Once I time aligned all the drivers for my listen position, the imaging is many times better. Although the front stage in the passenger seat is now clumped all to one side.

Dolby

[kmarei]

Originally Posted by TMR

i wish someone would post a way to get a pair of RCA's via summing or any other way so i can power the whole system with aftermarket amps. Where is that company that was going to make a converter that plugged right in?

instead of using a converter, just use an amp that accepts balanced inputs
since i like old school amps, i bought a used Soundstream amp that puts out 50x4 for the front and rear speakers
and 120 watts to each sub
for $200
and it has crossovers and all, no need for extra parts
i changed the tweeters in the doors, made a huge difference
next step is the SWS-8s

if you go to a shop make sure they do not cut any factory wiring
you can either make clips that fit into the factory plug
or do what i did
i bought a used non-HK amp for the E46 and ripped out the plug
so my factory amp will be safe and sound if i ever want to put it back
will just plug right in

[dolby]

Originally Posted by Diggy335i

How does your system sound with that setup?
I'm thinking of going with the same setup

It sounds great. So far I am very happy with it. Best of all it completely looks stock.


Dolby

[JohnnyCanuck]

Another question, if I install a 5/6 channel amp (PDX5 or HD900) on the tray where the sat radio would go (the blank spot beside the TCU), if I put the trunk floor back in will I have any heat issues with the amp?

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by JohnnyCanuck

Another question, if I install a 5/6 channel amp (PDX5 or HD900) on the tray where the sat radio would go (the blank spot beside the TCU), if I put the trunk floor back in will I have any heat issues with the amp?

Both amps you mention are Class D amps, which are much more efficient than Class AB amps. They are so cool-running that most of them lack trasitional heat-sink fins. I doubt you would have a problem at 2 ohms, but if you ran them at 4 ohms, I am very confident you would be fine.

The PDX can fit in the location for the OEM BMW amplifier in the corner, and I think the HD *might*... dunno.