Limp mode , Possible turbo issue?

Funkmob · 11-21-2009, 06:09 AM

Yesterday i got my first limps on a 2006 e92 335i that is complete stock.
I got the first one accelerating from 3th to 4th . Turned engine off and on , warning light was gone and power was back . Accelerated hard again and limp came back . Took the car home and stayed below 3000rpm .
On the way back i could notice a different in exhaust sound , like the muffler was wearing out.

Today i started the car and immediatly could notice my wastegates ratlle a bit , something the car did not do before. When getting hot the light ratlle dissapeared , but the different exhaust sound is still there.

Now accelerating hard i can't get it to limp today , but i can notice the car is making a bit less power , mainly in the midrange.

Plugged a scan tool to the obd , and fouond these codes:

2F6C (exhaust flap ) probably because i deisconnected the flap connection (golf T mod)

30FF Exhaust fume turbo low side

3100 Boost pressure control deactivation

C1E5B (ABS fault code)

Cauld this be worn wastegate guide rods , and that they were probably sticking last night?
They probably are also responsible for the change in exhaust sound.

My car has 43000kms , bought it used at around 35K kms . Never had a problem since i had it.

goff · 11-21-2009, 01:05 PM

The 30FF fault is set when boost pressure is not built up correctly. Most likely due to the turbos worn out, or actuators worn out and needing adjustment.

enrita · 11-21-2009, 01:20 PM

wastegates worn out probably . New turbos.

Funkmob · 11-21-2009, 05:31 PM

As far as i can see there is something definitly wrong with the actuators. I tried to move the rear actuator a bit on a cold engine and it did not really move , after putting some pressure on it it suddenly 'popped' loose.

Started the engine and it makes a louder noise again . Went for a drive and i could notice there is no boost , car feels really slow and when you give it some throtlle it goes into limp.

Is there a possible way i could make the actuator visibly work ? Like blipping the throtlle should make it close and open?

I really find it strange that the car went from running fine into running like crap in a short time. I would expect a worn actuator / wastegate to show its signs of wear over a longer time.

Is there any way to check if the boost solenoids are sending the correct vacuum to the actuators?

Funkmob · 11-21-2009, 06:34 PM

Can somebody tell me if you can adjust the rod without taking the clip of the wastegate lever.

Since there is not much room the get your hands down there , im worried i won't get the clip on after adjustment.
So can i just loosen the locknut and spin the rod to adjust the slack?

Thanks for the replys and sorry for the amount of questions .

11-21-2009, 06:09 AM	#1
Funkmob First Lieutenant 22 Rep 306 Posts Drives: 335i E92 space grey Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Belgium iTrader: (0)	Limp mode , Possible turbo issue? Yesterday i got my first limps on a 2006 e92 335i that is complete stock. I got the first one accelerating from 3th to 4th . Turned engine off and on , warning light was gone and power was back . Accelerated hard again and limp came back . Took the car home and stayed below 3000rpm . On the way back i could notice a different in exhaust sound , like the muffler was wearing out. Today i started the car and immediatly could notice my wastegates ratlle a bit , something the car did not do before. When getting hot the light ratlle dissapeared , but the different exhaust sound is still there. Now accelerating hard i can't get it to limp today , but i can notice the car is making a bit less power , mainly in the midrange. Plugged a scan tool to the obd , and fouond these codes: 2F6C (exhaust flap ) probably because i deisconnected the flap connection (golf T mod) 30FF Exhaust fume turbo low side 3100 Boost pressure control deactivation C1E5B (ABS fault code) Cauld this be worn wastegate guide rods , and that they were probably sticking last night? They probably are also responsible for the change in exhaust sound. My car has 43000kms , bought it used at around 35K kms . Never had a problem since i had it.
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11-21-2009, 01:05 PM	#2
goff ///M Tech 6 Rep 89 Posts Drives: F30 Join Date: May 2008 Location: NY iTrader: (2)	The 30FF fault is set when boost pressure is not built up correctly. Most likely due to the turbos worn out, or actuators worn out and needing adjustment.
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11-21-2009, 01:20 PM	#3
enrita Major General 161 Rep 7,377 Posts Drives: 335i - Big turbos Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Italian in Sweden iTrader: (0)	wastegates worn out probably . New turbos. __________________ 07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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11-21-2009, 05:31 PM	#4
Funkmob First Lieutenant 22 Rep 306 Posts Drives: 335i E92 space grey Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Belgium iTrader: (0)	As far as i can see there is something definitly wrong with the actuators. I tried to move the rear actuator a bit on a cold engine and it did not really move , after putting some pressure on it it suddenly 'popped' loose. Started the engine and it makes a louder noise again . Went for a drive and i could notice there is no boost , car feels really slow and when you give it some throtlle it goes into limp. Is there a possible way i could make the actuator visibly work ? Like blipping the throtlle should make it close and open? I really find it strange that the car went from running fine into running like crap in a short time. I would expect a worn actuator / wastegate to show its signs of wear over a longer time. Is there any way to check if the boost solenoids are sending the correct vacuum to the actuators?
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11-21-2009, 06:34 PM	#5
Funkmob First Lieutenant 22 Rep 306 Posts Drives: 335i E92 space grey Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Belgium iTrader: (0)	Can somebody tell me if you can adjust the rod without taking the clip of the wastegate lever. Since there is not much room the get your hands down there , im worried i won't get the clip on after adjustment. So can i just loosen the locknut and spin the rod to adjust the slack? Thanks for the replys and sorry for the amount of questions .
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