[acdHQK713K]

My CPO 2007 335i just turned over 50k miles. I want to do as much servicing as possible on my own.

I was going to follow this poster's plan: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=redline

Oil Change -- ROYAL PURPLE 5w40

Auto Transmission- Redline D4 ATF

Differential Gear Oil -- Royal Purple Gear Oil 75W-90


I am not sure if I feel comfortable doing the brake fluid and coolant. Is it recommended that these get changed at 50k?

Not sure when the spark plugs were changed (I hope 45K), so I need to get service records still.

I plan to do oil changes every 5-8k. If I keep good records and keep my receipts I should maintain the CPO warranty correct?
How does doing my own service impact these required "inspections."?

[Bcube]

Crewkip,

As you have probably found, there is a ton of opinions about which fluids to use and which interval cycles. The one suggestion I have is to stick with BMW recommended fluids while your car is still under warranty. The issue isn't whether which fluids are good, better, or best, but to basically keep BMW from finding obvious reasons for voiding your warranty.

So here goes IMO for keeping warranty.

1) Engine oil: BMW oil is not that expensive and easily available. Why use something different unless you have specific reasons to monitor potential issues with regard to activities like track racing? Which voids your warranty anyway.

2) Auto Transmission: There is lots of discussion on this. BMW says 100K mile intervals. The tranny manufacturer ZF says 60K to 80K mile changes. The OEM tranny oil color is light amber brown. Redline Tranny oil color is RED. Put any oil looking like Dexron II in your tranny and if there is a warranty issue and red shit pours out if they check the drain...DENIED.

3) Differential oil. BMW says lifetime, but if needing replacement, BMW approves Castrol SAF-XO for us.

4) Coolant. BMW use to say 4 years, now it is lifetime. Use the BMW coolant. It is bit more expensive, but it has some special properties - basically an omission of minerals that cause potential long term corrosion and other issues. There are some other brands that meet the same criteria - but BMW is the color blue, the other aftermarket products are orange in color. Again, orange pouring out a leaking waterpump or radiator: warranty? DENIED.

Your decision.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by crewkip

My CPO 2007 335i just turned over 50k miles. I want to do as much servicing as possible on my own.

I was going to follow this poster's plan: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=redline

Oil Change -- ROYAL PURPLE 5w40

Auto Transmission- Redline D4 ATF

Differential Gear Oil -- Royal Purple Gear Oil 75W-90


I am not sure if I feel comfortable doing the brake fluid and coolant. Is it recommended that these get changed at 50k?

Not sure when the spark plugs were changed (I hope 45K), so I need to get service records still.

I plan to do oil changes every 5-8k. If I keep good records and keep my receipts I should maintain the CPO warranty correct?
How does doing my own service impact these required "inspections."?

What I did at your exact milage:

-Engine oil: Total INEO MC3 5W 30
-Trans: 7 liter flush with petosin ATF1 (original fluid was F**ked UP)
-Pentosin brake fluid
-Pentosin Power steering fluid
-BMW OEM coolant
-Royal Purple max gear rear differential fluid

its up to you.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Bcube

2) Auto Transmission: There is lots of discussion on this. BMW says 100K mile intervals. The tranny manufacturer ZF says 60K to 80K mile changes. The OEM tranny oil color is light amber brown. Redline Tranny oil color is RED. Put any oil looking like Dexron II in your tranny and if there is a warranty issue and red shit pours out if they check the drain...DENIED.

I'm just curious, at 113k miles, have you flushed your trans fluid? If so, what did you use?

[Bcube]

At 88K miles, my drivetrain - excluding the motor - was replaced. Injectors, coils, plugs, fuel pressure sensors, turbos, HPFP, DME, and eventually my transmission were ultimately replaced. In effect, I have a 2009 drivetrain with a 2007 body.

(the transmission was replaced because of communication issues between the tranny's EGS computer and the DME. Not due to mechanical or hydraulic issues. The cold start/running mode was electronically dead.)

My warranty comments to Crewkip are in regard to having a BMW Field Service Engineer on-site to approve/disapprove the (eventual) $15-$20K worth of warranty work. The FSE first actions were to see what may have been modded or done to the car in the interest of denying warranty coverage. It even went to the point of me proving (with over two years of credit card charge receipts) that I only had used "top tier gasoline".

I changed the rest of the fluids (PS, coolant, diff) somewhere around the 102K mile marker. I went OEM approved.

[acdHQK713K]

Originally Posted by Bcube

At 88K miles, my drivetrain - excluding the motor - was replaced. Injectors, coils, plugs, fuel pressure sensors, turbos, HPFP, DME, and eventually my transmission were ultimately replaced. In effect, I have a 2009 drivetrain with a 2007 body.

(the transmission was replaced because of communication issues between the tranny's EGS computer and the DME. Not due to mechanical or hydraulic issues. The cold start/running mode was electronically dead.)

My warranty comments to Crewkip are in regard to having a BMW Field Service Engineer on-site to approve/disapprove the (eventual) $15-$20K worth of warranty work. The FSE first actions were to see what may have been modded or done to the car in the interest of denying warranty coverage. It even went to the point of me proving (with over two years of credit card charge receipts) that I only had used "top tier gasoline".

I changed the rest of the fluids (PS, coolant, diff) somewhere around the 102K mile marker. I went OEM approved.

Good advice. I will stick to it.

So Mobil 1 0W40 is approved by BMW. I will use that.

Are the only oils approved for the auto transmission and rear diff those sold by BMW?

In the event I don't have a catastrophic failure like you have had I want to make sure my car is well maintained when the warranty expires.

[Bcube]

Originally Posted by crewkip

Good advice. I will stick to it.

So Mobil 1 0W40 is approved by BMW. I will use that.

Are the only oils approved for the auto transmission and rear diff those sold by BMW?

In the event I don't have a catastrophic failure like you have had I want to make sure my car is well maintained when the warranty expires.

Fortunately no - although BMWNA does try very hard to make it difficult to get BMW AG approved fluids here in the USA.

Since the ZF transmission is used by various manufacturers, the fluid - while generally more expensive and difficult to find rather than off-the-shelf products - can be tracked down. The oil is Shell 1375.4. Some have found the cheapest price through the Range Rover dealer as part #LRN13754. Do a search - there are three or four recent ZF fluid discussions here in this section. You may decide to use Mercon SP or a Castrol product after reading.

Castrol SAF-XO (which some have claimed is factory fill) is also available through your local Range Rover dealer as part number #LRN7591 in quart sizes. Otherwise, just use a good 75w-90 grade. This is my opinion only, but I won't use Royal Purple diff oil due to my knowledge and interaction with the Ferrari world. As tested by the race track, Royal Purple has not worked as well in either expectation or practice as Redline 75w-90NS for those expensive $20K (to replace) limited slip transaxles/gearboxes. But hey, our diffs are not LSD and nowhere as complicated nor expensive as an Exotic.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Bcube

Castrol SAF-XO (which some have claimed is factory fill) is also available through your local Range Rover dealer as part number #LRN7591 in quart sizes. Otherwise, just use a good 75w-90 grade. This is my opinion only, but I won't use Royal Purple diff oil due to my knowledge and interaction with the Ferrari world. As tested by the race track, Royal Purple has not worked as well in either expectation or practice as Redline 75w-90NS for those expensive $20K (to replace) limited slip transaxles/gearboxes. But hey, our diffs are not LSD and nowhere as complicated nor expensive as an Exotic.

I did some research before picking Royal Purple 75W 90. I was able to confirm that it is synthetic based from the MSDS. Since I started using it, I picked up 1.1 miles/gallon. Redline 75W-90NS is listed on their website under "manual" transmission oil. The following are statements made by Redline:

-Contains extreme pressure additives like our 75W90 GL-5 oil, but lacks friction modifiers to balance slipperiness
-Helps with lock-up on weak limited-slip differentials-compatible with Red Line Limited Slip Friction Modifier for tuning slippage

Regular Redline 75W 90 listed under Gear oils is probably better than NS, since we do not have a limited slip differential.

[acdHQK713K]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

I did some research before picking Royal Purple 75W 90. I was able to confirm that it is synthetic based from the MSDS. Since I started using it, I picked up 1.1 miles/gallon. Redline 75W-90NS is listed on their website under "manual" transmission oil. The following are statements by redline are made:

-Contains extreme pressure additives like our 75W90 GL-5 oil, but lacks friction modifiers to balance slipperiness
-Helps with lock-up on weak limited-slip differentials-compatible with Red Line Limited Slip Friction Modifier for tuning slippage

Regular Redline 75W 90 listed under Gear oils is probably better than NS, since we do not have an LSD.

Thanks for the info.

After reading up on the AT, I think I may just leave it alone. Lots of conflicting information, and reports that changing AT fluid made things worse

Probably stick to engine oil, rear diff, and pay to have brake and coolant done.

American cars are so much more fun to work on

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by crewkip

Thanks for the info.

After reading up on the AT, I think I may just leave it alone. Lots of conflicting information, and reports that changing AT fluid made things worse

Probably stick to engine oil, rear diff, and pay to have brake and coolant done.

American cars are so much more fun to work on

are you kidding me? change your trans fluid pronto! Its done at 50K! Better save up 8k for the early replacement then.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

What I did at your exact milage:

-Engine oil: Total INEO MC3 5W 30

.

Did you know it's a Group III oil? I have a U.S. MSDS dated 2009 which states base is not PAO. Just and FYI..not that Gr III is bad.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Socom

Did you know it's a Group III oil? I have a U.S. MSDS dated 2009 which states base is not PAO. Just and FYI..not that Gr III is bad.

well, post the link. The fluid is not manufactured in the US. Its manufactured in Europe, and ships to North America via Paris. Also, when did you start reading MSDS's, and becoming a believer in PAO base stocks? I've found a PAO based ATF, thats equivalent to castrol transmax Z, and like ctmz, is approved for use in bus transmissions for extra long drains. I'm going to use it at my next drain and fill

Edit* The INEO MC3, is still holding my engine temps at 240 deg, after 4 months and 6,500 miles. mineral oil based BMW 5W30 starts struggling with my temps at this stage. INEO is not only PAO based, but it also has a healthy dose of ZDDP~ 1.5. I'm taking her up to 9K miles, then I'm dumping in Total Quartz 10W50 for racing this summer.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

well, post the link. The fluid is not manufactured in the US. Its manufactured in Europe, and ships to North America via Paris. Also, when did you start reading MSDS's, and becoming a believer in PAO base stocks? I've found a PAO based ATF, thats equivalent to castrol transmax Z, and like ctmz, is approved for use in bus transmissions for extra long drains. I'm going to use it at my next drain and fill

Edit* The INEO MC3, is still holding my engine temps at 240 deg, after 4 months and 6,500 miles. mineral oil based BMW 5W30 starts struggling with my temps at this stage. INEO is not only PAO based, but it also has a healthy dose of ZDDP~ 1.5. I'm taking her up to 9K miles, then I'm dumping in Total Quartz 10W50 for racing this summer.

It's not a link, it was emailed to me directed from Total Lubricants USA (Texas Office). I've seen older MSDS which say PAO or Grp III, but this is the latest. PAO is nothing new and although PAO in general is superior to Group III, there are different grades of PAO. Group III is getting so good that they perform the same as PAO. In any case I only investigated this MC3 because I found a site which was selling it as 100% PAO and it was priced under $9/liter.

Product name : QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W-30 Page : 1/6
SDS n° :35940-33 Version :2.03 Version of :2009-09-24
This sheet supersedes the one dated :2008-11-09

3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
Chemical nature : Product containing mineral oil with less than 3 % DMSO extract as measured by IP
346
Substances presenting a health hazard EC No. CAS No. Content Symbol(s) R-phrases
Zinc alkyldithiophosphate 272-028-3 68649-42-3 <1 % Xi ,N R-38, 41, 51/53
Diphenylamine 204-539-4 122-39-4 <0,2 % T ,N R-23/24/25, 33, 50/53
Alkylphenol 310-154-3 121158-58-5 <0,2 % Xn ,N R-38, 50/53, 62
Zinc alkyl di-thiophosphate 272-028-3 68649-42-3 <1 % Xi ,N R-38, 51/53
See section 16 for explanations of R-phrases :

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Socom

It's not a link, it was emailed to me directed from Total Lubricants USA (Texas Office). I've seen older MSDS which say PAO or Grp III, but this is the latest. PAO is nothing new and although PAO in general is superior to Group III, there are different grades of PAO. Group III is getting so good that they perform the same as PAO. In any case I only investigated this MC3 because I found a site which was selling it as 100% PAO and it was priced under $9/liter.

Product name : QUARTZ INEO MC3 5W-30 Page : 1/6
SDS n° :35940-33 Version :2.03 Version of :2009-09-24
This sheet supersedes the one dated :2008-11-09

3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
PREPARATION
Chemical nature : Product containing mineral oil with less than 3 % DMSO extract as measured by IP
346
Substances presenting a health hazard EC No. CAS No. Content Symbol(s) R-phrases
Zinc alkyldithiophosphate 272-028-3 68649-42-3 <1 % Xi ,N R-38, 41, 51/53
Diphenylamine 204-539-4 122-39-4 <0,2 % T ,N R-23/24/25, 33, 50/53
Alkylphenol 310-154-3 121158-58-5 <0,2 % Xn ,N R-38, 50/53, 62
Zinc alkyl di-thiophosphate 272-028-3 68649-42-3 <1 % Xi ,N R-38, 51/53
See section 16 for explanations of R-phrases :

Did you actually e-mail total, or did you just copy from this stuff from this post:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2944235

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Did you actually e-mail total, or did you just copy from this stuff from this post:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2944235

I have it in .PDF format, but that link is the full report. In any case it's an FYI for you. That's all.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Socom

I have it in .PDF format, but that link is the full report. In any case it's an FYI for you. That's all.

Damn good FYI bro! Thats why we have a forum, to help each other out. I'm currently investigating this. It seems the folks in that TDI forums, are finding UOA for the INEO MC3 to be high in Iron. Seems Total did a formular change to mineral oil base recently. This would also help explain why the pricce is lower than that of say Quartz 0W30. The guys in the forum are of the opinion that if an oil isn't priced close to $10/liter, it isn't likely to be PAO. I'll switch to Total Quartz 0W30 for now. The guys seem to note its mid SAP(since they are a diesel forum), but the 10K UOA is lower in Iron. I'll look into getting a confirmed PAO based oil in the future, even if its not LL01 approved.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by Socom

I have it in .PDF format, but that link is the full report. In any case it's an FYI for you. That's all.

Socom, Thanks for the FYI. I just got an e-mail from Total tech surpport, and INEO MC3 was definitely changed to a mineral oil base. Per the MSDS. Total Quartz 9000 0W30/Total Racing 10W50 are still PAO, so I'll be switching over from INEO. Btw, I'm sticking with pentosin ATF1 for now, because its used in Voith Bus transmissions. Its on the 120,000km extended drain list, along with castrol transmax z.

Voith: http://www.masino.fi/masinooy_pdf/DI...olvo_buses.pdf

Normal drain interval list: http://www.voithturbo.com/media/H55....Intervalls.pdf

Extended drain interval list: http://www.voithturbo.com/media/H55...._Intervals.pdf

[chromisdesigns]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Btw, I'm sticking with pentosin ATF1 for now, because its used in Voith Bus transmissions. Voith: http://www.masino.fi/masinooy_pdf/DI...olvo_buses.pdf

Normal drain interval list: http://www.voithturbo.com/media/H55....Intervalls.pdf

Extended drain interval list: http://www.voithturbo.com/media/H55...._Intervals.pdf

I thought from your sig you drive a 335i, not a bus...given the cost of BMW transmissions, why would you use anything but BMW recommended fluids?

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Socom, Thanks for the FYI. I just got an e-mail from Total tech surpport, and INEO MC3 was definitely changed to a mineral oil base. Per the MSDS. Total Quartz 9000 0W30/Total Racing 10W50 are still PAO, so I'll be switching over from INEO.

Don't forget if you want to stay LL04 there's still Motul 5w-40 X-Clean C3. That's a PAO/Ester as it should be for ~$11/liter.

[acdHQK713K]

Anyone know what I need to take out that rear differential fill plug? Searched and can' find it.

[Bcube]

A short 14mm hex driver, something like this:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

[acdHQK713K]

Did the rear diff today and was only able to pull off 1 quart via suction. The oil actually looked damn clean. I guess someone changed it recently. I put back 1 quart of Royal purple.

I am used to filling rear diffs to the point where it flows out of the fill hole. It was definitely not coming out of the fill hole this time. The car was as close to level as I could make it. Any thoughts on whether or not I have enough oil in there?