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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E92 Jack complaint
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04-19-2010, 11:55 AM | #1 |
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E92 Jack complaint
Have any of you who bought the rather expensive official BMW jacking kit for the E92 actually used it yet?
I went to do a trial run today before changing my wheels over and the nut wrench wouldn't remove the nuts. It's a long enough and heavy enough wrench but the head is at an angle instead of 90 degrees with the result it slips of the nuts and is in danger of rounding the corners off? How unreal is that? |
04-19-2010, 01:03 PM | #2 | |
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I was thinking of getting a proper jack for my E92, but not so sure now I've seen your cautionary tale. If it's not too much bother, please could you post a picture? I've been on the BMW website and I can't find the jacking kit. |
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04-19-2010, 01:11 PM | #3 |
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I don't like those angled wrenches either. Just thought of this: get a cheap "cross" wrench (a cross with 4 different sized sockets), cut 3 off so you have a 17mm socket left with two handles. One other advantage, you can give those wrenches a "spin" so bolts go in and out real fast.
Having said that with bolts tightened to 120Nm/88lbsft they should come off easy - sure yours are not too tight? |
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04-19-2010, 01:34 PM | #4 |
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Same here. Hate those angled wrenches. Anywho, i started carrying a telescopic wrench with the appropriate socket a long time ago.
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04-19-2010, 02:14 PM | #5 |
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I appreciate that the solution is simple but it involves spending more money if I don't have an existing wrench (I don't) and kind of destroys the point of having a kit in a self contained carry bag.
I don't have a picture to hand but there was a thread last year about the E92 jack which contains a photograph of the separate parts. |
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04-19-2010, 02:42 PM | #6 |
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I'm going to make one caveat to my moan.
The nuts are supposed to be tightened to 130nm. The last time I changed the wheels I used a local garage's ramp and their very huge wheel wrench. If BMW have made their wrench to a specific torque, it may be that the reason I can't get the nuts off with a BMW wrench, is that they are on too tight - BMW can be very precise - yes? So' I'll get them loosened tomorrow and then tighten them with the BMW wrench and then see if I can loosen them easily. Last edited by AlanQS; 04-20-2010 at 08:38 AM.. |
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04-20-2010, 07:46 AM | #7 |
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Right, I got some wheel nuts loosened with a proper wrench, tightened them with the BMW wrench and it was the same result - couldn't budge the nuts and all I risked doing was rounding the edges of the nuts.
Off to BMW tomorrow for a refund! |
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04-20-2010, 08:05 AM | #8 | ||
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I've used the set several times no problems when used correctly You need to have one hand on the wrench handle, pulling up is probably best, and the other hand pressing in the opposite direction supporting the wrench on the bend. Even on a 90degree wrench you should support it like this to avoid slippage, but the angled head design of this unit means you need to do it more so. The 45 degree bend is great as it keeps your hand and knuckles well away from the wheel when using it and still keeps the wrench compact, but it is a pain to spin the bolts out with it as mentioned. (i bought a £2 1/2 in extension bar from halfords for doing that.) Quote:
This wrench only 'clicks' in the tightening direction. It acts as a solid wench when loosening off. Even if it did 'click' in both directions a clicker type torque wrench can still be used over its torque setting, just as a solid wrench can be, as the 'click' is only a signal to the operator to stop turning!! Only a 'slipper' type torque wrench will actually prevent overtightening by allowing the handle to slip at the set torque. Last edited by doughboy; 04-20-2010 at 08:18 AM.. |
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04-20-2010, 08:26 AM | #9 |
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I have one and have used a few times to clean the wheels and the archs. No problems at all, Its a very nice bit of kit, the whole jack and wrench etc....
as has been said, you need to support the wrench at the angle. did have the nightmare of a wheel place using an airgun to tighten the wheels bolts up and could not budge them. so went back and got the to undo them and then i used the bmw wrench to tighten them. |
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04-20-2010, 08:47 AM | #10 |
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Fair enough Doughboy, for your comments, though with regard to "do you know how a torque wrench works" you were responding to a statement that I had not made. My point was that perhaps that length, weight, and angle of wrench wasn't suitable for removing nuts tightened to much more than 130nm - nothing to do with the mechanism.
As for using the wrench, two mechanics who have removed more wheels than you and I have had hot dinners, couldn't get the nuts to move without risking damaging the nuts though granted, they didn't spend a huge length of time trying. It kind of defeats the purpose of the tools if taking nuts off becomes a long drawn out affair with particular care in execution - don't you think? |
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04-20-2010, 08:58 AM | #11 |
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I've just gone out and tried it the way Doughboy suggested and your method is spot on
![]() But what an effort to start the buggers moving! I suspect that the nuts were on tighter than 130nm and at least I can correct that when they are tightened up again. Thanks for all your comments gents - especially your tip, Doughboy. |
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04-20-2010, 09:09 AM | #12 |
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No probs, sorry if I misread one of your points...
When retightening them you'll find that 120nm is actually not as tight as you'd think, turn them until you feel they're getting tight and the a final good pull will do it. Remember to partially tighten the bolts first in opposite formation, then go round again in the same sequence to set to the required torque, this prevents possible damage to the wheel / bolts by uneven tightening. 'Double click' is the quickest way to set and check the bolts. One click when you get to the required torque, then without removing the wrench, give it a second pull to check it clicks again without moving the bolt. |
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04-20-2010, 09:31 AM | #13 |
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I've been changing wheels for decades
![]() Quite by accident, the double click is what I've been doing. Cheers! |
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04-20-2010, 09:47 AM | #14 |
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But the wheel tyre combo is already balanced to take care of the valve weight?
Anyway, a bit of OCD is a good thing ![]() When I asked the tyre fitter to make sure he put the white 'spot' on the new tyres in line with the valve (as it is supposed to be, the white spot it the lightest point of the tyre and should be set against the valve to help reduce imbalance) He looked at me like I was some kind of wierdo for even suggesting it..... |
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04-21-2010, 09:54 AM | #15 |
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All done! Radial alloys off, wheel arches scrubbed (there's actually painted surfaces in there!) hubs nice and shiny and the 230s back on.
It is a bit of an effort getting the bolts off though - age I suppose. ![]() |
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04-21-2010, 10:23 AM | #16 |
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What have you done with yor hubs? I'm ready with some wire wool and a selection of paints to try as soon as i get an afternoon free:
1. Hammerite smooth silver brush on 2. Heatproof spray silver 3. Heatproof spray rustproofer matt grey |
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04-21-2010, 10:55 AM | #17 |
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I didn't suffer from rusty hub syndrome but there was a line of rust round the edge of the hub which you would expect after 27 months so I used Hammerite smooth silver, (small tin) job done, 2 minutes per hub.
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05-06-2010, 12:15 PM | #19 |
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19mm
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05-06-2010, 12:30 PM | #21 | |
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NOOOO !!!! BMW OEM bolts are 17mm !!!!!
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