[chris330D]

Because the f***ing wheels don't come off Finally got round to painting my rusty hubs. Jacked the car up no problem. Wheel nuts a bit trickier but a wrecking bar sorted that but would the wheels come off Ended up using a sledge hamme (not too hard!!) with a block of wood. You would have no chance roadside if you had a spare wheel to fit. Even my rears, changed 3 months ago, wouldn't budge. I know the winter was bad with a lot of salt on the road but the corrosion between the wheel and hub is not good. Those of you that have changed tyres and now have a space saver, I strongly suggest you try changing the wheels. I have seen lots of posts about this issue but did not think it would be this hard. On a happier note, the hubs now look miles better

[BGM]

i had my tyres done at kwik fit (and then alignment done elsewhere) not too long ago..

they seemed to not have any issues

[Dr Dave]

Grease the hubs themselves and make sure the inner wheel spigots are clean/greased.

[E92Fan]

Everytime you change the wheel, use a wire brush to clean up the mating surfaces, then copper grease a little to prevent the wheels sticking next time they need to be changed. I'd bet this wasn't done the last time the wheels were changed

[Dr Dave]

I found copper grease dries out Tone and exacerbates the problem whereas normal LM grease doesn't.

[E92Fan]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

I found copper grease dries out Tone and exacerbates the problem whereas normal LM grease doesn't.

Never had a problem with copper slip to be honest, but maybe that's because my wheels come on and off once every three months at the minimum! If that's what you've found, then that's good feedback

[Richwm]

Use Anti-Seize Compound on your hub and you will not have any issue.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ubricant_a.htm

[Dave_3]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

I found copper grease dries out Tone and exacerbates the problem whereas normal LM grease doesn't.

Never found that in my own experience.

Just recently removed a set of alloys from my MK1 Capri, which had been treated to some Coppaslip by myself. Alloys popped straight off after sitting for 20 years.

D.

[Dr Dave]

20 years!!!!!???

[Dave_3]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

20 years!!!!!???

Yes. 20 years.

The wheels are the least of my worries at the moment ....

D.

[Oli]

We use copperslip at my garage(6 techs), and never had any problems with it.

[Dr Dave]

I just find it dries out with use wherwas normal LM grease doesn't.

Personal opinion really - but that's what I'll be smearing my spigots with when I fit my summer rims tommorrow!

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by chris330D

Because the f***ing wheels don't come off Finally got round to painting my rusty hubs. Jacked the car up no problem. Wheel nuts a bit trickier but a wrecking bar sorted that but would the wheels come off

Chris,

Are you saying you jacked up the car first then loosened the bolts??

At home, if you crack the bolts 1/2 a turn with the car on the ground first before jacking - much safer than pulling at the car on a jack!

Usually with 1/2 a turn of slack the wheels will 'crack' apart from the hubs a fraction of a mm with the cars weight as you jack it up.

As said, copperslip the hub centre spigot as this is where is binds into the alloy centre hole. (not on the bolts or the wheel/hub mating faces though)

[F31-340i]

See this post - this really did turn out to be effortless, so it is my recommended technique, copied from others I hasten to add.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281643

[shane55]

I would have thought that the heat from heavy breaking would also help "weld" the wheels to the hub!?

[chris330D]

Originally Posted by doughboy

Chris,

Are you saying you jacked up the car first then loosened the bolts??

At home, if you crack the bolts 1/2 a turn with the car on the ground first before jacking - much safer than pulling at the car on a jack!

Usually with 1/2 a turn of slack the wheels will 'crack' apart from the hubs a fraction of a mm with the cars weight as you jack it up.

As said, copperslip the hub centre spigot as this is where is binds into the alloy centre hole. (not on the bolts or the wheel/hub mating faces though)

Doughboy, sorry it reads wrong, I cracked the nuts slightly then jacked up the car. I did wire brush the centre spigot but only had LM10 grease to hand. Hopefully this will work?

[chris330D]

Originally Posted by Dave_3

Never found that in my own experience.

Just recently removed a set of alloys from my MK1 Capri, which had been treated to some Coppaslip by myself. Alloys popped straight off after sitting for 20 years.

D.

The issue with the BMW seems to be that the wheel 'nuts' are actually studs rather than the traditional way in which the studs are on the hub. These are much easier to take off. Ford's are that way I think. The centre spiggot on all 4 wheels had a lot of corrosion on it and it was this that seemed to be holding the wheel on.

[chris330D]

Originally Posted by ///ajd

See this post - this really did turn out to be effortless, so it is my recommended technique, copied from others I hasten to add.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281643

Thanks for that. Interesting about the BMW TIS. My rears were replaced by the dealer in March and were as bad as the fronts which have been on from new so I doubt they did this Good idea kicking the wheels. I found hitting the tyre at 6 O'Clock using a sledge hammer/softwood combo did the same. Still means you would have no chance roadside with a puncture though!

[F31-340i]

Originally Posted by chris330D

Thanks for that. Interesting about the BMW TIS. My rears were replaced by the dealer in March and were as bad as the fronts which have been on from new so I doubt they did this Good idea kicking the wheels. I found hitting the tyre at 6 O'Clock using a sledge hammer/softwood combo did the same. Still means you would have no chance roadside with a puncture though!

I wish I could still use my BMW TIS - doesn't work on cheapo 64 bit windows.

[Dave_3]

Originally Posted by chris330D

The issue with the BMW seems to be that the wheel 'nuts' are actually studs rather than the traditional way in which the studs are on the hub. These are much easier to take off. Ford's are that way I think. The centre spiggot on all 4 wheels had a lot of corrosion on it and it was this that seemed to be holding the wheel on.

I was mainly commenting on my experience of Coppaslip.

But I had great trouble in the 80s removing XR3 wheels, if they had never been removed before - excatly the same reason, swelling on the hub centre. I used to apply a little Coppaslip. When they came back in for servicing later the wheels popped off easily.

D.

[chris330D]

Are you suggesting putting coppaslip on the mating surface as well as the spigot? I know not to grease the studs but would that be ok?

[Oli]

Originally Posted by Dave_3

I was mainly commenting on my experience of Coppaslip.

But I had great trouble in the 80s removing XR3 wheels, if they had never been removed before - excatly the same reason, swelling on the hub centre. I used to apply a little Coppaslip. When they came back in for servicing later the wheels popped off easily.

D.

Sorry OT slightly but,

Whats up with your spelling, its copperslip (as in its colour surely??)

Mind you after googling it, it is often spelt;

copperslip
copaslip
coppaslip.

However every pot Ive ever purchased, and thats a lot, has been spelt Copperslip.

everydays a school day, they say But Im not sure who's learnt more