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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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suggestion on breaking in new E92 335
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01-04-2007, 05:13 AM | #2 |
Second Lieutenant
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Drives: BMW 335 Coupe
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i guess i would stick to what the manual says.
There is like 100 posts on this ive already read on here, maybe you can find something more in them |
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01-04-2007, 09:56 AM | #4 |
Private First Class
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Here's a novel Idea. Let's Have one final Post, Sticky it in this forum and discuss the break in proceedures and their pro's & cons. Not I feel this or posts that are meeningless, but rather methodical thought out posts supported by factual evidence.
There are a couple school's of thoughts on this. I'm going to call BMWNA and see what they say. I did the same with Honda, and after enough tries. I got to an engineer and they gave me the real scoop on how to break the S2000 in, and it was completely different than the manual. Luke
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01-04-2007, 10:42 AM | #5 |
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Are you saying that a Honda engineer in US suggested different break in than what's in their manual?
All the modern engines are basically similar. I cannot see why it would be any different to break in 335i than it is to break in S2000. |
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01-04-2007, 10:44 AM | #6 | |
LV2XLR8
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Quote:
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Montego Blue BMW 335i Coupe Black W/Dakota Leather Interior/Gray Poplar Wood Trim Steptronic,Paddles,Premium,Sports,A.Steering, Comfort, Heated Seats,Shade,PDC,Navi. ETA:12 Weeks |
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01-04-2007, 10:36 PM | #9 |
Never Lose
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I broke mine in using the hard method...and my car is a complete rocket. I have driven an auto 335 and it did not feel the same to me. I get knocked back in my seat when I drive and I can't even imagine putting software in.
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01-05-2007, 12:28 AM | #10 |
technician
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run it hard from day 1 its been dyno proven I was told that from 3 335's that were dyno'd the one that was ran hard from day 1 dynod 290whp and the other 2 that broke it in at 1200 miles dyno'd 270+
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01-05-2007, 01:05 AM | #12 |
Captain
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This topic really needs to be a sticky. It just comes up too often and searching just leads to scores of nearly identical threads.
My break in was as always: easy as per mfg suggestions during the 1st 200 miles to get the transmission and tires within a safe range (easy rev wise, <4500, but pretty hard as far as throttle) and then driving like I stole it there after.... well as hard as I can in Oregon weather. I'm still staying off of my faster highway commute in order to avoid static revs for prolonged periods, but that puts me on some nice curvy back-roads which the car really shines on anyway. |
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01-05-2007, 01:25 AM | #13 |
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I think if we started making a sticky of every question that was asked a million times the first page of every forum would be filled with stickys .
So all we can do is answer their question over and over and over again.... a few of us will say SERACH damint SEARCH. bla bla bla But anyway, to answer your question. DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT. (This is no joke) If you search around you'll find this technique is very good.
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01-05-2007, 04:13 AM | #14 | |
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HAHA,, so basically DRIVE IT HARD? from day 1
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01-05-2007, 06:32 AM | #15 |
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I wouldnt drive it like I stole it, BUT drive it the way you feel like without worring about going over 4500rpms
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01-05-2007, 07:22 PM | #18 |
The limit of adhesion is my home.
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once you finish the first oil change at 1500 to 2000, the car runs even better.
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