[Dremer]

Off the bat, I'm going to admit to not having done enough research into getting the best lease deal. I'm going to research how leases work, and try to better educate myself. But in the meantime, I thought it wouldn't hurt to see if anyone here had some wisdom they could share.

I walked into a local BMW dealership on a lark, and inquired about leasing a 335i coupe. To make a long story short, I was offered the following deal, but I'm not sure if it's really a good deal. Any opinions/info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

2011 335i Coupe MSRP - $51,850
- Sale price $50,500
- Premium Package
- Cold Weather Package
- Steptronic Automatic transmission
- Navigation System
- Satellite Radio

- 36 month lease
- 12,000 miles per year
- $0 down
- $700 per month

Is this a reasonable deal? If not, what would be a reasonable payment?

[DCDeac]

I was in the dark regarding the lease prices as well - the dealers keep it confusing on purpose.

To understand the calculation, check here: http://www.leaseguide.com/lease08.htm

To find the rates, check the bmw boards for your current lease money factor.

One thing that kept throwing off the numbers for me was the lease acquisition fee. It's required and it took me haggling with like 4 dealers before someone mentioned it. If they waive it they add like .003 to the money factor. If you don't make a security deposit they usually raise the money factor but not in September because it's waived for folks with good credit.

And don't forget you can reduce the money factor by .00049 by putting down 7 security deposits. A must if leasing imho.

At 0.9% financing, I don't really understand why anyone would lease though.

[dday]

Originally Posted by Dremer

Off the bat, I'm going to admit to not having done enough research into getting the best lease deal. I'm going to research how leases work, and try to better educate myself. But in the meantime, I thought it wouldn't hurt to see if anyone here had some wisdom they could share.

I walked into a local BMW dealership on a lark, and inquired about leasing a 335i coupe. To make a long story short, I was offered the following deal, but I'm not sure if it's really a good deal. Any opinions/info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

2011 335i Coupe MSRP - $51,850
- Sale price $50,500
- Premium Package
- Cold Weather Package
- Steptronic Automatic transmission
- Navigation System
- Satellite Radio

- 36 month lease
- 12,000 miles per year
- $0 down
- $700 per month

Is this a reasonable deal? If not, what would be a reasonable payment?

Go to edmunds, pull invoice, add $200 for training and $300 for Maco (if in a large market) that will give you a rough true invoice. I would NEVER pay more than $1500 over that number for a 3 series and realistically you can get $1000 or better over that number.

Your current deal is only 1350 off MSRP, i'd call that a bad deal.

[JakesterAZ]

I just got 200 over invoice + maco and training. I wouldnt pay more then 500 over. Also make sure they are not bumping up the lease acqusition fee. I beleive they are allowed to increase that by about 200. My advice is to build the car you want on edmunds, add 700 to the invoice price and then email all the dealerships in your area with that offer. Guarantee one will bite.

[Dremer]

Thanks for all the helpful information. I'm going to do a bit more research before I pull the trigger. I think I should be able to get a better deal than this one.

[dday]

Originally Posted by JakesterAZ

I just got 200 over invoice + maco and training. I wouldnt pay more then 500 over. Also make sure they are not bumping up the lease acqusition fee. I beleive they are allowed to increase that by about 200. My advice is to build the car you want on edmunds, add 700 to the invoice price and then email all the dealerships in your area with that offer. Guarantee one will bite.

When you say $200 over are you counting the DCT credit? because $200 otherwise is a crazy deal.

I believe there's a DCT credit of around $1400 so $200 over is really like $1200 over if you get the DCT. Just want to make sure the OP doesn't go in asking for $200 over and get laughed at.

[Michael Schott]

To the OP, don't expect to get $200.00 over invoice. $500.00 over is a very good deal and if they waive some other fees $1000.00 is not bad. Not every dealer will drop their price to the bottom and not every buyer needs to beat up their dealer to get the very best price. That said, you can do much better than the deal you were offered.

[kgb1637]

Go from invoice up, not MSRP down, thats the first priority.

[E92Carrera]

Just an FYI the invoice on that car is: $47,745. You should be able to get +500 over invoice for a sale price around $48,245.

I'm not sure about your sales tax but I did a quick lookup and I used 6%. The payment I came up with is $631.51 with tax.

The drive-off would be the standard: license, registration, 1st month, etc.

Like everyone said, look at the invoice and work up from there. Base invoice is: $39,240 then just add on the invoice price of options and include some more for profit and ask for that sale price.

Also make sure that they don't mark up the Money Factor (.00175 this month) or any fees like the acquisiton fee ($725 standard, can be marked up to $925).

[gnhm3]

Bad deal imo

[JakesterAZ]

Here was my deal:

2011 328 Coupe
Le Mans Blue
Oyster interior
Convenience Package
M-Sport
Premium
HK
Nav

MSRP $48,525
Invoice $45,150
Sales Price= $45,350 also got base MF.

[DCDeac]

Locked this down yesterday:

2011 335i
Space Gray/Black/Dark Burl
Sport, Premium, Nav, HK, Comfort Access, Sat, iPod, SmartPhone, alarm, heated seats, fold down rear seat

MSRP $52,575
Invoice $48,820
Sales Price $48,365

So yeah, if you get it done before October some places are really dealing.

[Alpine335TT]

I'm getting mine at invoice with the lowest rate minus the extra points they charge on the back

$54,850 MSRP
$50,820 Invoice
$0 down.
$750/month with all taxes and fees included

[Dremer]

Originally Posted by Alpine335TT

I'm getting mine at invoice with the lowest rate minus the extra points they charge on the back

$54,850 MSRP
$50,820 Invoice
$0 down.
$750/month with all taxes and fees included

Which dealership gave you that deal? And how many miles per year are you getting?

[jmar0351]

I ordered an 335i e92 coupe with a msrp just under $55k. I'm putting taxes and fees down (approx 2750) and paying $631 a month. How is your credit OP? Thats the only other thing I can think of.
About leasing, I like a new car every 3 years. Yes, its a bit wasteful, but its fun

[Dremer]

Originally Posted by jmar0351

I ordered an 335i e92 coupe with a msrp just under $55k. I'm putting taxes and fees down (approx 2750) and paying $631 a month. How is your credit OP? Thats the only other thing I can think of.
About leasing, I like a new car every 3 years. Yes, its a bit wasteful, but its fun

My credit is good, my score is in the 700's. I think they were just trying to get over on me because, I didn't know much about the leasing process.

I'm better prepared to negotiate now. I'm just trying to figure out if it's better to lease or buy right now. The monthly payments aren't that far apart. But like you, I think I'm going to want a new vehicle in a couple years. Especially, since the 3 is due for a refresh.

[Jalal28]

Originally Posted by jmar0351

I ordered an 335i e92 coupe with a msrp just under $55k. I'm putting taxes and fees down (approx 2750) and paying $631 a month. How is your credit OP? Thats the only other thing I can think of.
About leasing, I like a new car every 3 years. Yes, its a bit wasteful, but its fun

I keep writing the same thing in different posts, but it's really good advice, so I don't mind re-typing...

Instead of paying the $2,750 up front on taxes/fees... Roll taxes/fees into selling price of car and use $2,750 to put down MULTIPLE SECURITY DEPOSITS (MSDs) instead. Each MSD reduces money factor by .0004. In every single case, doing this always leads to a lower OVERALL cost of lease ownership than paying fees up front.

Keep in mind, monthly payment will go up, but all other things about the deal being equal, your overall outlay of cash OVER THE LEASE TERM will be less in this scenario than any other. Not to mention the added bonus that MSDs come back you at the end of the lease or in the event the car is ever totalled/stolen.

For instance, say your car is stolen on day 1 of ownership... If you paid cash for fees, that cash is lost, you walk away with no car and your obligation to BMW is over. Now, assume same scenario, only you put down MSDs... in that situation, MSD cash is returned to you, you walk away with no car and your obligation to BMW is over...

Do the math for yourself, but MSDs are always the best way to go, for ALL costs, not just in the cap cost reduction (aka down payment) scenarios...

[DCDeac]

Originally Posted by Dremer

My credit is good, my score is in the 700's. I think they were just trying to get over on me because, I didn't know much about the leasing process.

I'm better prepared to negotiate now. I'm just trying to figure out if it's better to lease or buy right now. The monthly payments aren't that far apart. But like you, I think I'm going to want a new vehicle in a couple years. Especially, since the 3 is due for a refresh.

From my experience, haggling a lease off the bat is a mistake. I'd just say you're leaning towards financing, then just get to the best price you can get.

After that talk to the finance manager and use the base rate, residual percentage, and haggled price along with max MSD's to get a number. Just don't forget to add the acquisition fee, it threw off my calculations.

Going about it the other way allows the salesman to play games with the rate, insist on a downpayment, hide some profit, etc...

[jmar0351]

Originally Posted by Jalal28

I keep writing the same thing in different posts, but it's really good advice, so I don't mind re-typing...

Instead of paying the $2,750 up front on taxes/fees... Roll taxes/fees into selling price of car and use $2,750 to put down MULTIPLE SECURITY DEPOSITS (MSDs) instead. Each MSD reduces money factor by .0004. In every single case, doing this always leads to a lower OVERALL cost of lease ownership than paying fees up front.

Keep in mind, monthly payment will go up, but all other things about the deal being equal, your overall outlay of cash OVER THE LEASE TERM will be less in this scenario than any other. Not to mention the added bonus that MSDs come back you at the end of the lease or in the event the car is ever totalled/stolen.

For instance, say your car is stolen on day 1 of ownership... If you paid cash for fees, that cash is lost, you walk away with no car and your obligation to BMW is over. Now, assume same scenario, only you put down MSDs... in that situation, MSD cash is returned to you, you walk away with no car and your obligation to BMW is over...

Do the math for yourself, but MSDs are always the best way to go, for ALL costs, not just in the cap cost reduction (aka down payment) scenarios...

Good to hear! I'm waiting for the car as of now so I'm sure I can still restructure the payments. I'll give em a call tomorrow to figure this out.
Another reason why this site is great...people pass on info helping me save $$