[ENINTY]

E90x HVAC Blower Motor Replacement
This DIY is meant to augment the Bentley repair manual for replacement of the heating/AC system blower unit for the E9x. The Bentley manual directions for replacement of the blower unit are totally screwed up and will make you take twice as long to replace the blower than it should. It’s good for looking at the pictures and that’s about it. It even shows the incorrect direction to remove the blower unit!
The blower unit is not secured in place by screws, or bolts, like you think it would. The blower unit fits within a big hole within the HVAC housing and just twists into place. It is removed by hand; no tools are needed to remove the actual blower unit. Tools are needed to remove the panel to get to the blower unit and swap out the motor controller.
As usual I don’t take pictures when working on my car, but I try to be descriptive enough so you won’t need them.

I've included a MS Word version that is properly formatted...

Here are the proper instructions:
Tools needed:
Flashlight
Drop light
T-20 Torx screw driver
Mechanics Dental Pick.
Basic procedure:
1) Remove the passenger side lower dash panel.
2) Disconnect the power connector to the blower.
3) Remove the right-side heater duct work.
4) Remove the blower unit.
5) Swap the motor controller electronics from the old to the new unit.
6) Re-install the new blower unit.
7) Re-install the heater duct work
8) Re-install the lower dash panel.
Instructions:
1) Remove the Passenger side lower dash panel:
a. Slide passenger seat all the way rearward
b. Look under the glove box door and you will see two, black, torx (T-20) screws. Remove them.
c. Pull the lower dash panel down and rearwards and pull it halfway out.
d. Disconnect the power lead to the footwell light.
e. Remove the panel.
2) Disconnect the power connector: On the blower unit you will see a white plastic electric motor controller unit that has two connectors. One connector is for power from the body to the controller, the other connector is from the controller to the blower motor. Disconnect only the connector that feeds into the body cable. It disconnects by squeezing the black tabs and pulling straight down.
3) Remove the right-side duct work: The duct sits right behind the hinge for the glove box door and ha three feed holes. At the end of the duct (third feed hole) near the center of the footwell, gently pull the duct straight down about an inch (it snaps onto part of the blower housing with a metal toothed clip – it comes off easily). Now, pull the duct piece straight out from the center console towards the right side of the footwell. It will snap out of place. A second, smaller duct piece will probably come with it. This piece feeds the air into the rear seat duct work. It snaps on to the larger main, front footwell duct.
4) Remove The Blower unit: (This is where the Bentley procedure goes awry). The blower unit just twists in and out of place. There are two tabs on the perimeter of the blower unit housing. One tab is in the front near the white part number label. The front tab is an indexing tab to make a stop for the blower unit when twisting it into place. The second tab is in the rear of the blower near the fire wall and is hidden above the big, inch-thick, wire harness running along the firewall. The second tab is a locking tab meant to keep the blower from rotating out if it’s hole once it is in place. It’s hard to see the locking tab and hard get a hand on it. You will most likely break the rear tab off while removing the blower and replacement unit will probably not have the tab on the housing (because it was broken off already if it is a refurbed blower unit.
a. Once the duct is removed, find the rear locking tab and pull it down using the dental pick.
b. While the locking tab is pulled down twist the blower unit counter-clockwise (as you are looking up at it when on your back under the foot well).
5) Swap out the Motor Controller:
a. The motor controller is white and mounted to the blower unit housing. On the old blower unit, disconnect the second connector that feeds power to the blower motor. Remove the two silver screws (T-20 Torx) that mount the controller to the housing.
b. Install the old controller on to the new blower unit using the screws. Reconnect the connector.
6) Re-install the new blower unit:
a. Put the new unit up into the big opening in the HVAC housing. Rotate the blower unit clockwise until it locks in place with a click.
b. Reconnect the power connector from the main body harness.
7) Re-install the heater duct work:
a. Put the large ductwork piece back in first until it snaps into place.
b. If the small duct came out when taking the duct apart, re-install it now. You’ll have to move a wire harness that runs along the transmission tunnel and pull a part of the console trim out a little bit to get the little duct back into place.
8) Re-install the lower dash panel:
a. There is a large clip molded into the dash panel that slides into a slot on the lower dash, so make sure you get the clip into the slot.
b. Now re-connect the footwell light connector and push the panel back towards the firewall.
c. Rotate the front of the panel upwards to align the screw holes and re-install the screws that hold the panel in place.
Addendum:
If your new blower unit came without the locking tab you can secure the unit using the front index tab. The index tab lines up with a hollow bung on the HVAC housing that you can install a small wood or sheet metal screw into to keep the blower from rotating out of place (I doubt it ever would anyway).

[mkPOTO]

do you have the part number for the hvac motor?

[jwags88]

Originally Posted by mkPOTO

do you have the part number for the hvac motor?

64119227670

[mkPOTO]

thanks for that info, i was just curious is this what your hvac sounded when it went bad?

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by mkPOTO

thanks for that info, i was just curious is this what your hvac sounded when it went bad?

It was a rattling/ticking sound emanating from behind the glove box (where the fan motor is located). The upper bearing went bad on the motor shaft. The squirrel cage was rubbing the motorcase housing. Kind of like a lap top hard drive ticking sound only way louder.

[mkPOTO]

yeah I think mine is going out, good to know its behind the glove box

[cupoftea123]

I had the chirping cricket noises, from the heater motor on the two lowest fan speeds on my 56 plate 320d, seemed to get worse after a very cold snap in the weather, researched it on this forum, managed to find a new motor on ebay for £35, so thought I would risk it, didn't fancy a £300 bill at a garage, I followed the instructions above, and 45mins later SILENCE AT LAST.
I'm no mechanic, and found it quite simple, looks like this is quite a common problem with the E90, so have a go, its easier than parting with the £300, thankyou.

[djsolution]

Just did this job using ENTITY's write up. Just wanted to say thanks for a great writeup! Super detailed, everything went smoothly... except one thing. When removing and reinstalling the blower motor into it's housing ENTITY's directions of counter-clockwise for removal and clockwise for installation are backwards. I managed to remove the motor turning it counter-clockwise using he-man strength (and mangling the tabs in the process). When I went to install the new motor no amount of ham-fisted wrestling would get that thing to turn clockwise. When I looked at the slant on the tabs they were wedged toward the counter-clockwise direction (if that makes sense). Tried screwing it that way and it went in no problem. So to summarize:

Remove old blower motor clockwise
Install new motor counter-clockwise

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by djsolution

Just did this job using ENTITY's write up. Just wanted to say thanks for a great writeup! Super detailed, everything went smoothly... except one thing. When removing and reinstalling the blower motor into it's housing ENTITY's directions of counter-clockwise for removal and clockwise for installation are backwards. I managed to remove the motor turning it counter-clockwise using he-man strength (and mangling the tabs in the process). When I went to install the new motor no amount of ham-fisted wrestling would get that thing to turn clockwise. When I looked at the slant on the tabs they were wedged toward the counter-clockwise direction (if that makes sense). Tried screwing it that way and it went in no problem. So to summarize:

Remove old blower motor clockwise
Install new motor counter-clockwise

Now you're just pissing me off (JK'ing) because I'll have to now go back in and look at it! I'm trying to visualize it in my mind after almost two months after making the repair. I swear it loosens counter clockwise when you are looking up at it when you are on your back and your right shoulder is next to the transmission tunnel.

[djsolution]

Man the only reason I can speak without doubt is because I double checked your post a few times thinking I must be crazy. I was on my back with my right shoulder against the tranny tunnel looking directly up at the blower motor. Trust me this job would have cost me lots more time and probably some broken interior panels without your writeup. The clockwise/couterclockwise thing was just a hiccup!

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by djsolution

Man the only reason I can speak without doubt is because I double checked your post a few times thinking I must be crazy. I was on my back with my right shoulder against the tranny tunnel looking directly up at the blower motor. Trust me this job would have cost me lots more time and probably some broken interior panels without your writeup. The clockwise/couterclockwise thing was just a hiccup!

I'm still going to check when I get a chance. I looked at my old motor over the weekend and the all the mounting tabs (that go around the perimeter of the motor housing) are angled on the left (when the fan is facing up - like the installed position) inticating to me that you twist the motor in clockwise to install it. Maybe it's a perspective thing. LOL, anyway I can see now why the Bentley instructions were questionable, but they still totally screwed the part about the locking tab and indexing tab. Glad the write up helped.

After doing it once I bet I can swap out a E90 blower in ten minutes now.

Maybe I just shouldn't drink so much...

[MikeTN330i]

I just finished this, and it was remarkably easy.

The motor is definitely removed by rotating counter-clockwise. The key for me was to first reach behind the motor and release the back clip. I used my finger to lower the tab about 20 degrees, and then it was easy to rotate the motor. Installation of the new motor is clockwise.

Thanks for the write up. The whole thing took about 30 minutes or less.

[mthomas]

Will removing the blower motor give you good access to the ACcondensor? I would like to be able to put some cleaner in there to get rid of the moldy smell from my AC.

[chillmeow]

I need to know this information as well. I got bad smell from the AC as well. Thinking I need to clean the evaporator.

Originally Posted by mthomas

Will removing the blower motor give you good access to the ACcondensor? I would like to be able to put some cleaner in there to get rid of the moldy smell from my AC.

[int2str]

Big thanks to ENINTY for this awesome writeup!

I just replaced my squeaking fan motor and it took less that 30 minutes start to finish thanks to this great and detailed DIY. The instructions are correct as far as clockwise to loosen and counter-clockwise to put back in place. The most difficult part for me was to get that small plastic duct piece back in place, but I eventually managed. Everything else went smoothly.

Small tip for those of you reading the required tools list above:
The rear tab on the blower motor is actually really easy to release by hand - a dental pick is not required. Look at the tab on the new motor before you put it in and you'll see immediately where you need to grab it to release. The tab is quite big.

Again, ENINTY, much appreciated!
You saved me a lot of $$$ today and made it look easy. Well done!

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by int2str

Big thanks to ENINTY for this awesome writeup!


Again, ENINTY, much appreciated!
You saved me a lot of $$$ today and made it look easy. Well done!

It's why I'm here, brother, just why I'm here.

My new blower motor had the locking tab missing BTW, which made the Bentley instructions all the more confusing...

Seriously, glad I could help.

[2geek]

The fan in my car stopped working all of a sudden two days ago. I could feel some heat coming out of the ducks and the numbers on the dial were changing but the fan wasn`t blowing. It`s getting cold here in Ottawa so I wanted to fix this fairly quickly. I found the part on eBay for $100.

I followed the instructions in this DIY to remove the blower motor. I wanted to take a peek before deciding to order a new one. Taking it out was an easy 10 min job and once I had the motor/fan unit in my hands, I noticed some rust on the axle of the fan. I applied a few drops of oil, spinned the fan a bit to get it in, and re-installed the blower motor. It worked

Thanks for the tutorial! Of course you might want to try what I just did before replacing the blower motor.

[mike3000fl]

Originally Posted by 2geek

The fan in my car stopped working all of a sudden two days ago. I could feel some heat coming out of the ducks and the numbers on the dial were changing but the fan wasn`t blowing. It`s getting cold here in Ottawa so I wanted to fix this fairly quickly. I found the part on eBay for $100.

I followed the instructions in this DIY to remove the blower motor. I wanted to take a peek before deciding to order a new one. Taking it out was an easy 10 min job and once I had the motor/fan unit in my hands, I noticed some rust on the axle of the fan. I applied a few drops of oil, spinned the fan a bit to get it in, and re-installed the blower motor. It worked

Thanks for the tutorial! Of course you might want to try what I just did before replacing the blower motor.

make sure your windshield cowl isnt leaking. Water will run down into the area below the microfilter, and into the top of the blower motor, onto the part that rusted, then your passenger carpet. After a heavy rain, remove the microfilter, look inside that area with a flashlight and feel for water.

[uncle ben]

How could you fix a leeking windshield cowl? My fan stoped working today, and just yesterday I noticed a small wet spot on my passenger side mat.

[ZZZZ]

my blower fan works fine, but it squeaks like a strangled mouse on the lowest two fan settings. do I need a new motor, or is there something I can fix/grease/oil up to alleviate the annoying noise?

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by ZZZZ

my blower fan works fine, but it squeaks like a strangled mouse on the lowest two fan settings. do I need a new motor, or is there something I can fix/grease/oil up to alleviate the annoying noise?

In early 2007 about 6 months after buying my car (new) it got down to -5 degrees for a few days. Driving to work one morning, my blower motor let out a hellacious squeal for a few seconds. It never did it again, but the blower got noisier over time. In December 2010 the blower finally got to the point where the bottom of the fan blade started scraping the blower housing. That's when I replaced mine.

It sounds like your's needs replacing. The bearing are sealed bearings. You could oil them and it might help for a while. If the bottom bearing is making the noise, you really can't get to it to lube it.

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by uncle ben

How could you fix a leeking windshield cowl? My fan stoped working today, and just yesterday I noticed a small wet spot on my passenger side mat.

The "leaking windshield cowl" actually refers to the cabin air filter housing. It can be installed improperly where it doesn't properly seal against the air intake ducts on the actual firewall housing. The best solution is to remove the 6 hold-down screws on the air filter housing, make sure it seats over the intake duct openings properly and then re-install and tighten down the screws, from the center screws out to the outer screws.