[alexc93]

So a few weeks ago i posted about my plm downpipe issue of a rubbing noise when turning left.

Today i decided that the install place were failing me as they have had it back twice and not figured it out so i took it to bmw and asked to take a look myself and my SA who i am friends with let me, so i took some pictures.

Appears that the pipe on the right is rubbing on what looks like the frame, and the pipe on the left is rubbing on a bolt (not a bolt on the DP, a bolt on the car).

The install place told me the two pipes were rubbing together (NOT TRUE).

Here are the pictures: please chime in. are the pipes able to be twisted at all or what can fix this?



^^ the shiny part is the DP, the dull gray is the frame.



^^ you can see the bolt above the DP.

I think the frame is causing most of the noise as this has clear rubbing (metal shavings visible).


Here is a link to my previous thread: PLEASE HELP ME OUT

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466545

[enrita]

not much to help out here , you need to try reposition them or flatten them out where they rub.

[tscdennab]

Go to a muffler shop, take them down and flatten them where needed...

[alexc93]

Am i going to have to take them off the car to flatten them down or can i just use some grit paper and try and rub a bigger gap?

[Tiago@VRSF]

Horrible fitment. Looks like the money saved on PLM's gets tacked on in multiple labor charges lol.

The short dp needs to be reclocked. If it can't be rotated anymore a BFH can be pretty persuasive.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by alexc93

Am i going to have to take them off the car to flatten them down or can i just use some grit paper and try and rub a bigger gap?

They gotta be removed.

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

Horrible fitment. Looks like the money saved on PLM's gets tacked on in multiple labor charges lol.

The short dp needs to be reclocked. If it can't be rotated anymore a BFH can be pretty persuasive.

The install shop (debold motorsports) are doing all the fitment issue stuff for free. They charged 250 for install and lifetime fitment warranty.

What is BFH?

[Clap135]

You guys are crazy, all you have to do is loosen the vband clamp and adjust them. The install shop botched the install. My plm downpipes fit perfect.

[Tiago@VRSF]

Originally Posted by alexc93

The install shop (debold motorsports) are doing all the fitment issue stuff for free. They charged 250 for install and lifetime fitment warranty.

What is BFH?

Lifetime warranty doesn't mean much if they can't do it right the first time

Clap is right, just like I suggested above, rotate the short pipe to clear the sub frame. All you need is a couple millimeters of clearance and you'll be fine. Anything less and the pipe will rub/rattle when you make left turns.

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

Lifetime warranty doesn't mean much if they can't do it right the first time

Clap is right, just like I suggested above, rotate the short pipe to clear the sub frame. All you need is a couple millimeters of clearance and you'll be fine. Anything less and the pipe will rub/rattle when you make left turns.

This is true but its nice to know they are willing to sort it out.

The short pipe is the one on the right correct?

If it is bolted to the turbo and exhaust how can it be rotated?
Surely it only goes on one way..?

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by Clap135

You guys are crazy, all you have to do is loosen the vband clamp and adjust them. The install shop botched the install. My plm downpipes fit perfect.

Thanks! did you use the stock clamps or the PLM Clamps?

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by alexc93

Thanks! did you use the stock clamps or the PLM Clamps?

stock clamps.

[Tiago@VRSF]

The bolts used allow for a bit of play. When installing downpipes we clamp the turbo lightly, hand tighten the bolts to the catback, align the dp's then tighten everything up.

Your shop clearly fudged up those steps unless you got a bad set of pipes.

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by tvieira24

The bolts used allow for a bit of play. When installing downpipes we clamp the turbo lightly, hand tighten the bolts to the catback, align the dp's then tighten everything up.

Your shop clearly fudged up those steps unless you got a bad set of pipes.

Thanks, im going to go back there with them when they try and fix it and basically just do it for them lol

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by Clap135

stock clamps.

Thanks, they used the PLM clamps so ill tell them to use the stockers

[Forcefed3]

Cant really do anything without having them bent. or shave something down.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by gbreeE90

Cant really do anything without having them bent. or shave something down.

Really? did you read the thread?

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by Clap135

Really? did you read the thread?

lol

[Tiago@VRSF]

Apparently not lol.

[NiVeDh]

Give this a read as well: http://www.billswebspace.com/335Riss...wnpipesDIY.htm

Especially the section that reads "{NOTE} I had some clearance issue with these RR V1 pipes, the heat shields covering the motor mount and the turbo oil lines had to be massaged a little. I also replaced the Torx head bolt holding one corner of the Turbo oil line heat shield with a more flush hex head bolt:"

[alexc93]

Originally Posted by NiVeDh

Give this a read as well: http://www.billswebspace.com/335Riss...wnpipesDIY.htm

Especially the section that reads "{NOTE} I had some clearance issue with these RR V1 pipes, the heat shields covering the motor mount and the turbo oil lines had to be massaged a little. I also replaced the Torx head bolt holding one corner of the Turbo oil line heat shield with a more flush hex head bolt:"

Thanks, the place who installed them threw out my stock clamps when they installed them so im going to go and make them pay for some new stock clamps.

[Topless///M]

Been thru this with a another brand of DPs and it was a PITA....ended up getting another pipe that I haven't tried to fit yet. Don't want to try yet since warranty's soon to be up and I may need new turbos if wastegate rattle gets worse.


If the angle on the back flange of the DP is more than 30 degrees off, meaning no matter how much you rotate the pipe, you can't get the flange faces to become parallel.....the short DP will pull to the frame everytime you try to tighten the two flange faces together due to the bad angle. Tried so many rotation combinations that it just wouldn't work. Then as a last resort I tried slightly flattening the pipe, same spot yours is hitting, and it still rubbed on hard left turns. And they still didn't fit right as there was an exhaust leak at the back flange that I noticed after removing them (see pics). Trust me, I know this because multiple people had this same issue with their 335s, but for some reason there is better clearance on the 135s? as I read somewhere on the forums. Ex-employee of AR ring any bells?? I hope my replacement pipe from AR will fit. AR did come through for me, but haven't tried replacement pipe yet. This is talking a while back before BB Fab even existed... I'm not sure if they're still in business now.

Wasn't about to remove the heatshields for not even an 1/8" of space. I massaged them out a little like the other guy did on that link above. Keep in mind, pipes were so far off, these pics were taken after the pipe was flattened, and fitment still sucked. They leaked even after the pipe was flattened, the angle was so far off. FYI, I'm no newb at working on cars either...pulled a motor out of my T/A 15-20 years ago and have been working on cars ever since, friends, co-workers, family (exhausts, headers, suspensions). How can multiple performance shops/installers come across this same problem unless DPs aren't fabbed correctly in the first place. Yes, I agree some are due to installer error as the more time they're on one job, the less money they make so they rush the job, but sometimes it's for other reasons.

It's gotta be these 3" DPs if something's just a tad off in welds or bends your SOL.

OP...your issue, first pic doesn't look as severe since it's just the outer edge that is touching, not even close to what I had. If you don't have an exhaust leak at that rear flange the way it is now, you may be able to adjust it better. Mine was ridiculously out of whack.

My nightmare pics (taken after DP was flattened and it still hit on hard left turns with an exhaust leak):