[ViperJPB]

Of course I have Oyster seats so the problem is more obvious, but I can't stand how Jean dye rubs off on our leather seats! Give my car a month and you will start to see the blue and black discoloration start to cover the traffic areas of my Oyster leather seats. I can easily take it off with some Zaino leather cleaner and adding an additional layer of conditioner helps keep the stains away for a little while. It's just annoying. I wish they made better Jeans these days where the dyes don't run and fade off. I'm sure Oyster leather lovers out their feel my pain. But for all those darker color leather owners out there....imagine all the layers of nasty Jean dye on your seats that you can't see! Clean your seats people, clean uhm. Keeps me up at night...haha..joking.

[Brentster]

My boss's X5 with the ventilated seats always look awful. The stains get in the tiny holes and there really isn't a way to clean them.

[bavarianboar]

Originally Posted by ViperJPB

Of course I have Oyster seats so the problem is more obvious, but I can't stand how Jean dye rubs off on our leather seats! Give my car a month and you will start to see the blue and black discoloration start to cover the traffic areas of my Oyster leather seats. I can easily take it off with some Zaino leather cleaner and adding an additional layer of conditioner helps keep the stains away for a little while. It's just annoying. I wish they made better Jeans these days where the dyes don't run and fade off. I'm sure Oyster leather lovers out their feel my pain. But for all those darker color leather owners out there....imagine all the layers of nasty Jean dye on your seats that you can't see! Clean your seats people, clean uhm. Keeps me up at night...haha..joking.

Oyster here. My LEVI's Jeans dye came off with warm moist microfiber towel from the driver seat. LEVI's makes cheap stuff I am sure

It is a little work to maintain it, though not a PITA. I would still get Oyster again if I decided to keep a darker exterior color.

Little annoying but yeah as you said, we don't lose our sleep over it

[TOGWT]

CliffNotes® Version - automotive finished leather upholstery is a multi-strata urethane coating; consisting of the actual hide, water-based colour pigmentation and the surface finish. An acrylic and polyurethane resin binder system is used to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather, then two or three water-based pigmented base coat applications, and then a clear water-based top coat is applied, which usually includes additives to give it a soft feel and a limited amount of ‘slide’ to assist in entering and exiting the vehicle as the final stage of the finishing process.

(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear. Use a water-based foam cleaner (Leather Master™ Foam Cleaner) on ventilated seats

(b) Hydrated - use water-based products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish protection as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.

Leather Master™ - Protection Cream (a Scotchgard™ type product specifically formulated for lather) the polymers penetrate the surface of finished leather and cross-link to form a durable protective film that is breathable and keeps the leather supple. Being water-based it restores moisture to finished leather and provides a protective barrier against every kind of soiling, water, oil, alcohol-based stains and perspiration marks.

This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre to ensure the leather remains soft and supple; apply Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Soft Vital) and allow to dry for approx 20 minutes, finally using a clean dry micro fibre towel buff to a matte sheen.
The hides used for automobile upholstery are treated with fat liquor and then sealed at the tannery. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish (urethane pigmentation or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles

Always remember you are dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself


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[dday]

I hear you, I have oyster and I have to clean my seats every 3 weeks. I recently picked up some sonax leather cleaer/conditioner and it's really nice for remaking light transfer. For mire thorough cleaning I've been using leather masters.