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      05-03-2011, 04:55 PM   #1
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Calling the pro's: Need some critique on my setup

So i'm trying to get down a solid setup for removing medium swirls, bringing out the paints color depth, and trying to seal all of this from the elements. This is what I've purchased so far, and it is what i'd like to go with at the moment:

1) Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (PO83)
2) Menzerna Micro Finish (PO85RD Polish)
3) Meguiars #7 Glaze
4) Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger
5) Chemical Guys XXX Hard Core Paste Wax

Do you guys see anything wrong with this setup, such as incompatibilities with one another? Of course i'll be washing using 2 bucket method and clay bar prior to using the setup. Also, can someone recommend me which CCS pads to use with each one? My goal is to take out swirls and seal everything. Its all going on a Jet Black.
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      05-03-2011, 05:44 PM   #2
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For Jet Black, you might need an intermediary step between the PO83 and PO85RD. Take a look at this chart:



Keep in mind that Jet Black paint is very soft; it's more finicky but ultimately takes less to remove swirls. The PO85RD might have difficulty removing what the much more aggressive PO83 leaves behind. I would personally try a less aggressive polish (like PO203S) on an orange/white pad to see if that takes care of the swirls. If you used PO203S, finishing with PO85RD would be perfect. You might be able to use the PO83 on a less aggressive pad (white) and PO85RD on a slightly more aggressive pad (green) to compensate that way.

If you really need the PO83 with an orange pad to get rid of the swirls, you might be looking at a 3-step correction with soft Jet Black paint. For example: PO83/orange, PO203S/white, PO85RD/black.

Everything else looks good. You will like the Blackfire too.
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      05-03-2011, 06:30 PM   #3
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That JB year is hecka-soft. 85RD will actually do a ton of corrective work on it - its the finishing down that needs to be tight and precise. I have used 85RD on a polishing pad and gotten a vehicle 95% swirl free when it started off GRAY from so much swirling.

What you could potentially do is SIP on a white pad, a polishing pad, on a really bad section and see where it gets you. This will leave some haze, but if you spend extra time once the polish has broken down refining it (the SIP thats broken) you will be left with a lighter amount of haze so that 85RD can take care of it. You should spend extra time when 85RD is broken down refinining that too.

Experience and "the book" does tell you that you will have to 3 step black cars, but this year is so soft that extra correction can be had from even the mildest of combinations.

The experience "bank" and "the book" go out the window with this particular color on this particular car.

Some options
Standard: Starting from the bottom up if you follow "least aggressive method first"
SIP on white then orange(light cut) if white(polishing) doesn't do it
Middle step(if you end up getting one) on white(polishing)
85RD on Black/Blue(or whatever finishing color you have).

Non standard
JB specific non traditional from the top of the list down following "least aggressive first"(with ONLY what you have now).
85RD on a finishing pad
85RD on a polishing pad -> back to finishing for extra refining.
SIP on white
SIP on orange

SIP can finish down very nicely even on soft paints if you continue to work it after its "officially" broken down and cleared out. Again though this is just a non-standard approach that has worked for me, typically adhering to something more traditional may leave less guess work - but you have to purchase that middle step.

I would be really curious to see where you get with 85RD on a polishing pad before buying something else. Maybe a pre detail spot section so you know where you stand before dropping coin.

Mike
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      05-03-2011, 08:39 PM   #4
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Some good advice from both of you. I'm debating what I should do, as I don't have anything to use as an intermediary step between PO83 and PO85RD. I guess my three options would be:

1) Since the paint is so soft, just try PO85RD on its own with a white pad and see where that goes. Honestly though, some of the swirls and marring on the car are past the "light scratches" stage.

2) SIP on orange --> SIP on white -->85RD on white --> 85RD on black

3) SIP on white --> 85RD on green --> 85RD on black

Out of those 3, which do you guys think would be the best route to take? I think I might try #1 on some of the lighter swirling and see where that takes me.
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      05-03-2011, 08:40 PM   #5
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BTW, I have all pads except for yellow, which I wouldn't need anyways with such a soft paint.
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      05-03-2011, 09:17 PM   #6
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Least aggressive is always better, so try #1 first. If you run into areas where that's not effective enough, I would go with #3.
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      05-03-2011, 09:56 PM   #7
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Another vote for a #1 and then a #3.

I think you will be surprised what #1 will do. If not, I would be surprised if youre not surprised.
Either way to get in correct habit of progression you should be starting with the least aggressive method, and considering the softness, that's an easy choice.

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      05-03-2011, 10:42 PM   #8
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Awesome, thanks for all the input. I'll go in the order of #1, and if that doesnt work I'll try #3. Look out for an extensive writeup on this in the next few days. I owe you guys at least this much for the help Thanks again.
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      05-05-2011, 11:45 PM   #9
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So I just got done using #1 (85RD on a white pad) and you guys were correct. It did wonders in taking out the millions of swirl marks all over my hood! It took two passes, but def. worth it. I was very surprised at the effectiveness of 85RD on the jet black paint.

Now that I've gotten out the majority of the swirls, my next project is to get the deeper, linear scratches. What do you guys suggest for this?
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      05-06-2011, 12:17 AM   #10
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having done a detail on my own Jb e92, I like using Menzerna SIP on a green uber pad followed by po85rd on a blue uber pad..

LSP- Menzerna powerlock, then autoglym hd wax
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      05-06-2011, 12:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimoxl View Post
having done a detail on my own Jb e92, I like using Menzerna SIP on a green uber pad followed by po85rd on a blue uber pad..

LSP- Menzerna powerlock, then autoglym hd wax
Is the green Uber pad the equiv of a white CCS pad?
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      05-06-2011, 12:52 AM   #12
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Yes, nearly exactly even though the porosity of foam is just a little different. And the blue would be directly replaced by the black pads you have.


Uber pads are simply stock blank pads from a manufacturer with inked "branding" on the backing material. No difference aside from people calling them "uber".
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      05-06-2011, 05:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimoxl View Post
having done a detail on my own Jb e92, I like using Menzerna SIP on a green uber pad followed by po85rd on a blue uber pad..

LSP- Menzerna powerlock, then autoglym hd wax
Will try this and let you know how it works out for me. I've learned a lot from you guys. Thanks for all the help.
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      05-06-2011, 11:23 PM   #14
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Just got finished doing a 2-stage polish on the hood with the following:

SIP - Orange Pad (2 passes with PC DA)
PO85RD - Black Pad (1 pass with PC DA)
Blackfire Wet Diamond - Applied by Hand

1 pass being 6 vertical / horizontal passes.

The results are amazing! There are a few deep scratches here and there, but SIP is the most aggressive polish that I own currently. Debating on what to do next to get out the minor imperfections. The trunk was originally riddled with thousands of swirl marks, which have all been taken out.

So far I've gotten the hood and trunk done. Still 3/4 of the car left!

Here are some before and after pics. (Before obviously being the first picture)
Attached Images
  
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      05-07-2011, 02:14 PM   #15
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Very nicely done! There is a huge difference between those two shots - not only did you remove the swirls, but check out the difference in clarity of the brick reflection.
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      05-07-2011, 03:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopa489 View Post
Very nicely done! There is a huge difference between those two shots - not only did you remove the swirls, but check out the difference in clarity of the brick reflection.
Thank you! Yes, the optical clarity is such a big difference from what it initially was, let alone the fact that there are no swirls present. It isn't perfect, as there are still a few deeper scratches here and there, but I feel like its a good start.

With that said, what do you guys think I should use that would be more aggressive than the SIP, yet still be able to be applied via DA buffer?
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      05-10-2011, 12:58 PM   #17
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Car looks way better. Are you new to using a machine polisher? I am just wondering if it is technique that needs tweaking rather than a more aggressive polish. JB is so soft I wouldn't think you would need anything more aggressive. Also what size pad are you using? For deep imperfections I sometimes have to switch to a 4 inch pad. Not insulting your ability just mentioning it so you get the most out of what you have rather than jumping to a more aggressive compound.
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      05-13-2011, 01:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krells View Post
Car looks way better. Are you new to using a machine polisher? I am just wondering if it is technique that needs tweaking rather than a more aggressive polish. JB is so soft I wouldn't think you would need anything more aggressive. Also what size pad are you using? For deep imperfections I sometimes have to switch to a 4 inch pad. Not insulting your ability just mentioning it so you get the most out of what you have rather than jumping to a more aggressive compound.
No, I understand what you're speaking of. In terms of technique, I usually make 6-7 passes when I polish. Also, Im currently using a 5.5" pad on a 5" backing plate. IMO, this is the perfect setup for general use. So you're saying that switching to a 4" pad would help with removing deeper scratches? I've been considering trying M105 to see if that would work, as I've heard it is slightly more aggressive than the SIP.
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      05-13-2011, 01:59 PM   #19
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Actually, I think im going to bump up to a surbuf pad and see how that works out.

Update: Just bought some Surbuf pads and some other stuff from DI a few min ago
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Last edited by digital01; 05-13-2011 at 03:15 PM..
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      05-13-2011, 03:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digital01 View Post
No, I understand what you're speaking of. In terms of technique, I usually make 6-7 passes when I polish. Also, Im currently using a 5.5" pad on a 5" backing plate. IMO, this is the perfect setup for general use. So you're saying that switching to a 4" pad would help with removing deeper scratches? I've been considering trying M105 to see if that would work, as I've heard it is slightly more aggressive than the SIP.
The 4 inch pads cut a bit more but I would imagine nothing close to the surbuf pad.
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      05-13-2011, 03:56 PM   #21
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surbuf and 105 with knock out everything in one pass on jet black for the most part (deep defects obviously not, but sometimes its better to leave the deep ones). It will, however, leave the finish pretty crappy, so be prepared for two more steps afterward. 203 on orange, 85rd on black, or 203 hydrotec tangerine, and 85rd black
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      05-14-2011, 11:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Envious Eric View Post
surbuf and 105 with knock out everything in one pass on jet black for the most part (deep defects obviously not, but sometimes its better to leave the deep ones). It will, however, leave the finish pretty crappy, so be prepared for two more steps afterward. 203 on orange, 85rd on black, or 203 hydrotec tangerine, and 85rd black
Sounds good. Thanks for the heads up with correcting the finish after using a surbuf pad. I just ordered some 203 with the surbuf pad, so I'm good to go. I'll let you guys know how it goes!
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