[Streetluger06]

I just got my car running two days ago after replacing both turbos and getting my HPFP recalled. I was driving under moderate throttle and got the 30FF code for my front turbo being over boost. I have gotten the same code every time I start the car and have the half engine light come on whenever I apply moderate throttle. When listening to the exhaust at idle I can hear the drivers side sounding throatier than the passenger. Also when doing a data log the boost target is not being met and max psi up to 4000 rpm was 3 psi. I am fairly sure that my front turbo's waste gate is stuck open and not allowing it to spool.

My question is, what is the best way to go about fixing this? I am out of warranty and since I just put it in I suppose I can pull it out again if needed. Do I need to replace the waste gate only? If so can I buy them separate from the turbo? Also I have a procede V5, will the waste gate adjustment on that be able to help me? Any information is appreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle

[cn555ic]

If you just got new turbos why would the wastegates be sticking already?

[Streetluger06]

I bought them used off of a member on this site with 14,000 miles on them. I wouldn't expect it but it seems like that's what the symptoms are pointing to.

[vase330]

Maybe there was some rust? If you have to replace Turbos, you are better off with brand new or just go upgrade route. The Turbos on this car are a PITA IMO. My car is in for the 3rd time with nasty rattle issues at a mere 28K miles. And they replaced my waste-gates just 10K ago. Once out of warranty if I have to have Turbos touched, am getting the upgraded ones.

[Joshboody]

If you can put eyes on the front wastegate, maybe you can make note of the positions when the car's off versus idle. Procede's default is like 60% DC, which should be shut and the mechanical default is open. If the wastegate doesn't move then it's stuck. I can't locate my front wastegate from the top of the car though, but haven't really tried from underneath.

[Streetluger06]

Ok thank you, I will check that out. I can see it from underneath quite well. I would have replaced them with new turbo's but I simply cannot afford to so this was my only viable option to get my car running again.

I started taking a few things off to get a better look at the waste gate and found my charge pipe had popped off allowing for a small leak before the intercooler, I reattached it and now I am getting three codes with the same symptoms as before.

The new codes are:
30FF - Turbocharger 'B' Overboost Condition
2A18 - DMTL Pump Heater Circuit Open/High/Low
2D5A - Monitoring Engine Torque Limiting

[Streetluger06]

I checked my waste gate on my old front turbo and it seems to be ok so I can probably just switch the two. Has anyone tried to change them out with the turbo in the car? It looks like the clip will be the hardest part. Also does anyone know what makes a waste gate stick in the first place and if the waste gate is repairable? I would like to rebuild my old turbo's eventually to have a back up set.

[Litos]

Originally Posted by Streetluger06

The new codes are:
30FF - Turbocharger 'B' Overboost Condition

curious as to where you got that descrition from.

my Cobb read "P30FF Pre-Control Boost Control, boost pressure to leak from pressure line".

[mattsfeir]

Originally Posted by Streetluger06

I checked my waste gate on my old front turbo and it seems to be ok so I can probably just switch the two. Has anyone tried to change them out with the turbo in the car? It looks like the clip will be the hardest part. Also does anyone know what makes a waste gate stick in the first place and if the waste gate is repairable? I would like to rebuild my old turbo's eventually to have a back up set.

I have the same questions also.

Does anyone have additional info on those Forge wastegate actuators?

[Streetluger06]

Originally Posted by Litos

curious as to where you got that descrition from.

my Cobb read "P30FF Pre-Control Boost Control, boost pressure to leak from pressure line".

I got that discription out of the back of my Bently repair manual

[Joshboody]

Streetluger, did you swap your turbos on your own... if so, can you give some insights into what's involved. You have a full lift, or ramps? This would be in my future, but pretty involved project of course.

You should be able to swap the wastegate. I think the only reason dealers swap the entire turbo is because there's no a part# for the wastegate and they purchase it as a unit. It's just 3 bolts and a clip i think.

[Streetluger06]

Originally Posted by Joshboody

Streetluger, did you swap your turbos on your own... if so, can you give some insights into what's involved. You have a full lift, or ramps? This would be in my future, but pretty involved project of course.

You should be able to swap the wastegate. I think the only reason dealers swap the entire turbo is because there's no a part# for the wastegate and they purchase it as a unit. It's just 3 bolts and a clip i think.

I swapped mine with my car up on jack stands in my garage without a lift. I left the engine in the car and pulled the front turbo out the top of the engine bay i believe and then unbloted the engine mount and tilted the engine to allow clearance to remove the rear turbo from the top. I left the steering rack attached unlike the bently manual suggests but if your arms aren't small then it may be necessary. The swap itself isn't hard, there's nothing particulary difficult about it except for the tight spaces. Make sure you have a good torx set, an array of extensions and a 6.5mm socket if you don't have a torx type socket set which I don't have. Also a good set of pry bars is necessary to remove the oil and water lines which are a pain to remove.

you need to be pretty clever when removing some parts because the origional orientation usually will not allow removal.

And about the waste gate, the front one runs the linkage between the turbo and block so I'm not sure I can get at the clip with it in the car. I will try it today and let you know, I would rather not drain 6+ quarts of amsoil out with only 70 miles on it.

[Streetluger06]

Ok I checked my waste gates today and when I start the engine both waste gate arms move so I believe they are working. I still have the same engine codes and the same exhaust sound with no boost.

I changed my procede map from the 5/10 DIC to the 12/17 maps.

I rechecked all charge pipes and connections are there are no boost leaks.

I have an aftermarket charge pipe on the engine side of the intercooler with an HKS blow off valve. I haven't found any exhaust leaks with the new downpipes so I don't think the issue is from that.

Does anyone have any thing they think I should check? I'm running out of ideas.

[Joshboody]

If you can't build boost... have you run with the BOV without issues in the past? check your wastegate, vacuum pump, canister hoses.

If you have procede log wastegate DC... on map 1 DC should be <50%

[Litos]

update: dealership called me and said "we replaced the Low Pressure Fuel Sensor"

[kiteboy]

is Pressure Fuel Sensor which is responsible of 30FF ???

because normaly



------------------------



* 3100 Boost-pressure control, deactivation - Boost-pressure buildup prohibited

* 30FE Turbocharger, charge-air pressure too high

* 30FF Turbocharger, charge-air pressure too low - Charge-air pressure too low.


Note: If a defective high pressure fuel pump or additional faults are found in the DME memory (e.g., fuel pressure, crank sensor, cam sensor, knock sensor, etc.), then those faults will be the primary focus of the diagnosis, using the test plans provided for those faults. FC 3100 and 30FF are only a result of the component fault.


If FC 3100, 30FE, and/or 30FF are the only faults stored in the memory, then those faults must be the primary focus of the troubleshooting. These faults are stored due to a reduction in boost, possibly caused by one of the following items:


* Leaks or restrictions in the induction system, loose clamps, cracked pipes or housings

* Air path disruption, aftermarket air filter, air filter housing, induction tubes, etc.

* An imbalance in turbo charging between cylinder banks one and two

* Waste gate valve binding, loose or leaking

* Leaks or restrictions in the vacuum control for waste gates, actuators, solenoids, supply hoses, etc.

* Intercooler leaks due to damage from road debris

* Leaks or restrictions in the exhaust system.

[Litos]

the fuel pressure sensor threw the car into "limp mode", which made it appear as if it had a boost leak because i was only able to run 2psi on WOT.

[kiteboy]

How cost fuel pressure sensor ? where is it located ?

difficult to replace it ?

[ChrisB41]

I thought i read about somebody putting downpipes on and the clamp was not put back in the original postion thus holding the wastegate open.

[kiteboy]

so in your case fuel pressure sensor, was responsible of 30FF ...

are you sure ??

but when you had only 3100 & 30FF like mee, but not each time when i take the car.....???? and never when harly driving ????

else since one year i've got wastegate rattle on front turbo, only on deceleration, could this be a consequence ?

[rcusick]

Your turbos are going. First thing BMW will do is replace low pressure sensor. Then they will replace vanos sensor. Then they will replace fuel injectors. Last they will replace turbos. Pain in the butt. After removing mine with same 30ff error (low boost) I found actuator was sticking badly.

[kiteboy]

my front wastegate rattle since now one year, (onle on deceleration) will it be possible a consesquence of 30FF ??

else where is located the low pressure sensor that you means ?