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What is that special tool dealers have to check brake?
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09-02-2011, 12:27 PM | #1 |
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What is that special tool dealers have to check brake?
Just had my brake inspection 2 weeks ago, 9mm front and 6mm rear on the report. Then I realize my wheel lock key is not in the trunk... I called dealer... The technician claims that the key wasn\'t there so he measured the pad without taking wheels off. Is that possible ? Or they have a special tool?
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09-02-2011, 03:07 PM | #3 |
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obviously they are saying they didn't lose my wheel lock key. I am just upset they didn't document that on my service report that "Tech wants to remove wheels and couldn't find the wheel lock key in the trunk".
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09-02-2011, 03:08 PM | #4 |
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yes....the tech told me that....he opened the trunk and the wheel lock key wasn't there in the time of service.....well, i guess he "intended" to remove my wheels anyway.
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09-06-2011, 04:18 PM | #5 |
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I have seen the tool. it looks like a tire depth gauge. There is a whole in the shield on the calipers where it goes through. so no need to remove the wheels. Even the service advisors can do it.
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09-06-2011, 10:11 PM | #6 |
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Micrometer. It measures the rotor thickness.
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09-07-2011, 10:55 AM | #7 |
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We are talking about pad thicknes measurment not the rotor.
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09-07-2011, 01:35 PM | #8 |
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They probably just glanced at your pads and said "ya those look alright".
Same strategy I use at the track after every session... but to answer your question they just use a basic caliper to measure the thickness of the pad and rotor normally. |
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09-07-2011, 03:39 PM | #9 |
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They don't just glance at them. They have tool that measures the pad thickness without pulling the wheels. They can do all four corners in about 2 minutes.
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09-08-2011, 04:33 PM | #10 |
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Ummm, the wear sensors report actual percentage of brake compound left on the pads. All they need to do is plug into the car computer.
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09-08-2011, 05:55 PM | #11 |
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Here at BMW we do not just glance at the pads we use special tool # 34 1 260. It looks similar to a pen. We use an access port through the pad retainers or pad shields, we are then able to measure the actual thickness of the pad itself without pulling off all 4 wheels. The cluster measurements are only an estimate. It changes depending on your driving style.
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09-08-2011, 06:04 PM | #12 |
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Nope. The ware sensor is an on/off switch. Just 2 wires encased in plastic. Once you ware away the plastic, the wires will touch the rotor and complete the circuit. It is only installed on one wheel per axel. The ware indicator you see on your CBS is just an estimate based on pedal pressure and deceleration. I've had my ware sensor trigger well before the mileage reached.
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09-08-2011, 07:25 PM | #13 |
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Thanks for the clarification. I learn something new every day...
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09-09-2011, 11:49 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
You can check depth without taking the wheel off. There is a little tool that looks like a tire depth gauge tool. They probably used that between your spokes. Or, perhaps they had an extra wheel lock key in the shop. |
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10-03-2016, 02:45 PM | #15 | |
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hate to be a jerk but....
Quote:
The bentley manual procedure for the 3-series states that you measure brake pad depth on right front and left rear only. If I'm wrong I'd love to know, find it quite annoying to measure brake pad depth without removing the caliper! --speedball |
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10-03-2016, 11:14 PM | #16 |
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I think people still don't know how the brake sensors work.
There are two "wear wires" in them. When you put in a new wear sensor you should reset the brake wear mileage meter. When the pad wears halfway through, it breaks the first wire. Then the car knows how many miles it took to wear through half your brakes. From there it tries to predict how many miles you have left on your brakes. Of course, it's entirely dependent on how fast or how slow you wore through the first half. But that's how you get your estimate for the second half of your pad. And when the second wire finally breaks (regardless of estimate), you get the warning light in your dash that it's time to replace the pads.
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10-03-2016, 11:28 PM | #17 |
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10-04-2016, 08:17 PM | #18 | ||
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Quote:
There's a picture of the tool. All four corners of the brake setup have the inspection holes in the metal retainer/clip and the pads themselves. It's very easy to measure the outside pad thickness with this tool, but the wear sensor is located on the inner pad. If you trip the wear sensor you may still need to change the brakes, even if the outer pad is good you may be close to metal-on-metal contact with the inner pads. Quote:
Last edited by rich_mane; 10-04-2016 at 08:28 PM.. |
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10-04-2016, 10:58 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
So, yes, there is no wearing or contact until the first stage is reached, but that's a minor point. Stage one is when the sensor starts to wear. Just know that if you ever reach first stage with your wear indicator, you put in new pads, and then you try to reset your meter, you'll get an SES light. So if you ever go through 50% wear (trigger the first stage), you need to get new wear sensors. Because you'll run into a foul if your stage 1 is triggered, but your mileage meter is reset. None of this information is new. There are plenty of posts on how this works.
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10-06-2016, 12:03 AM | #20 | |
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To be honest I'm not even sure what part I was disagreeing with in your original post lol. I must have misread something because rereading it now, I'm really not even sure what point I was trying to make hahah so sorry about that. |
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10-06-2016, 12:59 PM | #21 |
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Well, to be fair to you, I was going on about there be two wires and there aren't.
As you said, there is no contact between the sensor and the rotor until the brake pad wears about half way down. Then the sensor starts making contact with the rotor. This is stage one. How I understand it, your car now expects contact with the rotor from here on out. This is why, if you reset the meter and there is sensor contact with the rotor, you get an SES error. Because it knows a sensor is at stage 1 (half pad wear). So then at half pad wear, you have contact with the rotor until you wear the sensor and pad down enough that the sensor wire is completely worn through and broken. Then no electrical contact is made through the wire circuit again. This should trip stage two. Which means your pads should be replaced. It also causes it to flash the warning light on your dash. I'm 90% all that's accurate, but I may be missing a fine point. I may be missing some detail about how the wire and contact works, but the principal is all there. At the time you posted, you may have seen that I had some of that wrong the first time around.
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