[rrdbstudios]

As the title says, I would like a complete list of tools required to do this job.


I plan to replace my clutch/flywheel and other surround parts this weekend.


Will be putting in hpf stg2 feramic with oem dual mass, I plan to report back how it does as it gets beyound the breakin period!


Thanks all ~ I am aware of the HPF youtube video, but im looking for a complete written list of tools, etc.

-Paul

[Rotorocious]

Don't worry about the special torx/hex socket for the trans bolts. I used a standard sized socket (9/16? maybe) and it actually worked better from an angle.
Other than a usual set of decent basic tools you will just need a long extension I think.

Ratchet wrenches worked well for getting the top trans bolt out.
That was a pain in the ass. I gave up and pulled the whole intake to get at it and it was much easier and actually faster than repeatedly failing at getting it loose otherwise.
You don't need the diff wrench, I just unbolted the driveshaft from the trans and zip tied it out of the way.

[rrdbstudios]

Originally Posted by Rotorocious

Don't worry about the special torx/hex socket for the trans bolts. I used a standard sized socket (9/16? maybe) and it actually worked better from an angle.
Other than a usual set of decent basic tools you will just need a long extension I think.

Ratchet wrenches worked well for getting the top trans bolt out.
That was a pain in the ass. I gave up and pulled the whole intake to get at it and it was much easier and actually faster than repeatedly failing at getting it loose otherwise.
You don't need the diff wrench, I just unbolted the driveshaft from the trans and zip tied it out of the way.

Thanks for the tips!

Well I ended up compiling my own set of directions, so for whoever does this in the future, they have a step by step procedure: (sorry the formatting didnt stay from word, but its all there)

disconnect battery
remove undertray
8mm
remove vbrace
2 - 18mm
8 - T50 torx
remove exhaust
remove from dps to rear axle
remove tunnel heat sheild
8mm
10mm
remove from passenger side and slide
remove brackets that hold up plastic undertray
8mm
10mm
remove drive line & queebo
3 - 18mm
remove center bearings from chassis
2 - 13mm
remove carrier bearing bolts
use zipties to hold driveline to side
push towards rear of car and it will come out
unplug o2 sensors
label them
remove passenger side o2 that block tranny
remove o2 bracket from tranny
2 - E10 fastener
swing it over and ziptie it to the side
remove cabin filter cowl from engine bay
8 - 8mm - air filter
2 - 8mm - cowl housing
2 - cabin air sensors
remove upper most bolt on bellhousing
remove from engine bay
E14
use flexable head socket
remove upper most bolt on starter
remove from engine bay
E12
bolt installs towards from of vehicle
support tranny brace
remove tranny brace bolts from car
4 - 13mm fasteners
lower down a little so the engine mounts are supporting most weight of the tranny
stick a piece of wood between oil pan and sway bar
once weight of transmission is removed this will keep the engine from slamming forward
wedge it in... keep oil pan away from sway bar
take off shifter assembly
relieve 2 clips - barrel clips - they snap into transmission
with pry bar with narrow end.
remove shifter from gear selector
push on retaining cap (push upwards)
remove slave cylinder
use a long extension and universal
13mm socket
remove clip/plug from passenger side of transmission
let hang, it comes from the drivers side over the top of the transmission
remove bell housing bolts
E10
E14
5 - E18 - aluminum bolts
remove E10 steel bolt first (drive side)
remove E14 steel bolt (very top right side of transmission)
remove outer two E18s first on the right (leaving the center one between them)
remove upper most E18 on left side
both center E18 side bolts should remain to hold the transmission to the bell housing
**once these are remove the transmission is free and could fall
there is a bracket attached to the left bolt, that should come out with the bolt
pull out transmission
slip it back and rotate counter clockwise (looking forward)
twist and pull out/off
remove pressure plate and clutch disc
6 - 6mm allenhead bolts
remove flywheel
put new flywheel on
torque bolts to appropriate level
clearn with brake cleaner
put friction disc on
slide alignment tool in
put pressure plate on
clean with brake cleaner (no oil on it)
use (red) locktite on pressure plate bolts (little dab)
keep an eye on dowel pins
put bolts on opposing sides and tighten in a criscross pattern
slide alignment tool in and out to make sure the pressure plate isnt tightening the friction plate at an angle
torque bolts to appropriate level
put transmission back on
put left and right center transmission bolts in first E18 aluminum
put in remaining 3 E18 aluminum bolts
torque to 72nM
reconnect shift linkage
put the tranny jack under the transmission cross base
remove the wooden wedge
reinstall the 4 bolts on the transmission cross brace
reinstall the top 2 bolts from the bell housing (one was for the starter)
reinstall the engine cowl
reinstall the driveline
reinstall heatsheild tunnel
reinstall vbrace
reinstall exhaust
reinstall undertray plastic panels
reconnect battery
breakin clutch

[prelude2perfect]

Thanks for the step by step instructions, I'll be tackling this this weekend and was looking for a DIY

[stressdoc]

Wow, I wish you had photo documented this.
Thanks for the useful text -- I will move this to the DIY section eventually.

[Chipedy]

Originally Posted by prelude2perfect

Thanks for the step by step instructions, I'll be tackling this this weekend and was looking for a DIY

Take some pics and create a DIY!! It would be awesome to have one. Good luck.

[cleex024]

how long did all this take you and what is your mechanical background?

[Rotorocious]

HPF did a pretty good youtube diy video fyi

[E36graduate]

Questions:

What torque did you re-install the flywheel bolts at?

Did you reuse the Aluminum bellhousing scew/bolts?

What torque did you re-install the bellhousing bolts at?