Is 1000 watts enough power?

AZynski · 03-16-2012, 04:39 PM

I'm getting two pheonix gold 10's installed in a couple weeks and I'm wondering if that will be enough power. The e92 is pretty small, but still I like my bass. Anyone have any experience with this subject?

taibanl · 03-16-2012, 06:57 PM

I don't try and shake my eyeballs out, but 300w on my corner enclosure is plenty loud for me!

TMR · 03-16-2012, 07:13 PM

Yes, if its a good clean 1000 watts its more than plenty. I run 600ish to ea of my 15's.

Moz_e90 · 03-16-2012, 08:22 PM

Look for quality over quantity. There's no real standard for rating amps. Cheapo amps can claim 5k watts and deliver 30w on a good day. Those big numbers are peak power, often in one channel and one frequency. 200-300w should be enough. Look @ Nominal watt rating too.

1. Match the drivers to the right size box, cubic feet of air. Look at manufacturer recommendations on ported box vs. bandpass (sealed).
2. Get an amp stable down to 2ohms if you can. I like Orion, but there's many others.
3. Get a 1 farad cap, otherwise you lights may "blink" when the bass hits and you'll limit top power since you're relying on the battery only.
4. I would go w/4 gauge cable.

TMR · 03-16-2012, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moz_e90

Look for quality over quantity. There's no real standard for rating amps. Cheapo amps can claim 5k watts and deliver 30w on a good day. Those big numbers are peak power, often in one channel and one frequency. 200-300w should be enough. Look @ Nominal watt rating too.

1. Match the drivers to the right size box, cubic feet of air. Look at manufacturer recommendations on ported box vs. bandpass (sealed).
2. Get an amp stable down to 2ohms if you can. I like Orion, but there's many others.
3. Get a 1 farad cap, otherwise you lights may "blink" when the bass hits and you'll limit top power since you're relying on the battery only.
4. I would go w/4 gauge cable.

Im running 4 arc audio amps, 2 which are for subs at 700 watts ea, 1 the is 300x2 for mids and 1 that is 150x2 with out any caps and i have zero light dim.

bmw325i · 03-17-2012, 03:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMR

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moz_e90

Look for quality over quantity. There's no real standard for rating amps. Cheapo amps can claim 5k watts and deliver 30w on a good day. Those big numbers are peak power, often in one channel and one frequency. 200-300w should be enough. Look @ Nominal watt rating too.

1. Match the drivers to the right size box, cubic feet of air. Look at manufacturer recommendations on ported box vs. bandpass (sealed).
2. Get an amp stable down to 2ohms if you can. I like Orion, but there's many others.
3. Get a 1 farad cap, otherwise you lights may "blink" when the bass hits and you'll limit top power since you're relying on the battery only.
4. I would go w/4 gauge cable.

Im running 4 arc audio amps, 2 which are for subs at 700 watts ea, 1 the is 300x2 for mids and 1 that is 150x2 with out any caps and i have zero light dim.

+1 I have close to 2000 watts with no light dimming. Caps are useless.

To OP assuming your talking about an actual 1000 watt amp it should be pretty loud whether or not it is loud enough is up to you. Also I have no idea how good those subs are or if they'll even take that much power. IMO most car audio brands are crap and many ridiculously exaggerate there ratings.

Lolitskasey · 03-18-2012, 06:42 AM

Caps are useless, just a anchor weighing down your car. If you plan on putting a TRUE 1000 watt amp, I would suggest adding a non spill-able batt. XS power makes amazing batts.

VP Electricity · 03-18-2012, 08:28 PM

If you're worried about loud, why limit your cone area?

It's a meaningless question, really. If the question were phrased, "I have this driver which has this amount of excursion and has these detailed specs, I'm using this type of enclosure, and I want to hit this dB level, how many watts do I need to reach that?" then you might have a chance. But as it is, it's a meaningless question.

When I ran 1kW of Zapco (50x6/100x2/500x1) in my 2007 328xi, I got a couple of low-voltage warnings. I didn't like the rears anyway, so I deleted them, and the warning went away. I have no reason to believe that your car's electrical system can support 1kWatt of Class AB.

I guess my question is, why would anyone add 1kW of bass on a HiFi system?

03-16-2012, 04:39 PM	#1
AZynski New Member 4 Rep 13 Posts Drives: E92 M3 ZCP - Alpine White Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Florida iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW 328xi coupe [0.00]	Is 1000 watts enough power? I'm getting two pheonix gold 10's installed in a couple weeks and I'm wondering if that will be enough power. The e92 is pretty small, but still I like my bass. Anyone have any experience with this subject?
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

03-16-2012, 06:57 PM	#2
taibanl Brigadier General 281 Rep 4,121 Posts Drives: BMW Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: NA iTrader: (4)	I don't try and shake my eyeballs out, but 300w on my corner enclosure is plenty loud for me!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-16-2012, 07:13 PM	#3
TMR Brigadier General 398 Rep 3,159 Posts Drives: M3 Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Torrance iTrader: (12)	Yes, if its a good clean 1000 watts its more than plenty. I run 600ish to ea of my 15's. __________________ 2015 M3 BPM Tuned, Eibach, Magnaflow and more www.tmrmzine.com/m3/f80 SOLD E92 Slēk Carbon Fiber Widebody M3 www.tmrmzine.com/m3/slek/ SOLD E92 335i Stage 3+ with all the toys www.tmrmzine.com/335/ SOLD E39 M5 Modded, What a great car! www.tmrmzine.com/m5/
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-16-2012, 08:22 PM	#4
Moz_e90 Second Lieutenant 7 Rep 254 Posts Drives: 325 e90 Sparkling Graphite Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: San Francisco iTrader: (2)	Look for quality over quantity. There's no real standard for rating amps. Cheapo amps can claim 5k watts and deliver 30w on a good day. Those big numbers are peak power, often in one channel and one frequency. 200-300w should be enough. Look @ Nominal watt rating too. 1. Match the drivers to the right size box, cubic feet of air. Look at manufacturer recommendations on ported box vs. bandpass (sealed). 2. Get an amp stable down to 2ohms if you can. I like Orion, but there's many others. 3. Get a 1 farad cap, otherwise you lights may "blink" when the bass hits and you'll limit top power since you're relying on the battery only. 4. I would go w/4 gauge cable.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-18-2012, 06:42 AM	#7
Lolitskasey Private First Class 11 Rep 115 Posts Drives: 2006 Black 325xi Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Alaska iTrader: (0)	Caps are useless, just a anchor weighing down your car. If you plan on putting a TRUE 1000 watt amp, I would suggest adding a non spill-able batt. XS power makes amazing batts.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-18-2012, 08:28 PM	#8
VP Electricity Brigadier General 294 Rep 3,201 Posts Drives: F34 xDrive Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: portland oregon iTrader: (3)	If you're worried about loud, why limit your cone area? It's a meaningless question, really. If the question were phrased, "I have this driver which has this amount of excursion and has these detailed specs, I'm using this type of enclosure, and I want to hit this dB level, how many watts do I need to reach that?" then you might have a chance. But as it is, it's a meaningless question. When I ran 1kW of Zapco (50x6/100x2/500x1) in my 2007 328xi, I got a couple of low-voltage warnings. I didn't like the rears anyway, so I deleted them, and the warning went away. I have no reason to believe that your car's electrical system can support 1kWatt of Class AB. I guess my question is, why would anyone add 1kW of bass on a HiFi system?
	Appreciate 0 Quote