[puhahacj]

So I literally just passed 50k miles, exhausting the factory warranty in the process, and all of a sudden my '08 328i starts acting up! It idles pretty rough both in park or in drive, and it doesn't matter if it’s at start-up or after the engine’s been running for a while. I don't remember what RPM the car was idling at before, but it appears to be hovering between 500-600 now. I would describe the vibration from the engine bay as mellow to mildly violent, but it's constant whenever the RPM dips below a certain level (I want to say below 700?)

Anyway, I replaced the air filter (although it didn't look particularly dirty) and added some Lucas Fuel Treatment, hoping that these relatively inexpensive and simple fixes would do the trick. Not to my surprise, they didn't do a darn thing. So before I resort to my last option and take it to a mechanic, I figure I'd give Plan B a shot and reach out to my fellow bimmer enthusiasts for some advice. Does anyone think they might know what's going on? Any comments are greatly appreciated!

[TheBingoBalls]

Spark plugs and/or coils if the vibrations are harsh and not subtle.

[SavvyByNature]

I agree with previous poster. Most likely one of your coils went out.

[puhahacj]

Thanks for the replies guys. Did I mention that the check engine light is not on? Will misfiring spark plug(s) and/or damaged ignition coil(s) trigger the check engine light to come on? If not, I'm a little surprised that I may need to replace them already.

[33beto]

perhaps a software update?

[Volasko]

What about the MAF sensor, it may be worth giving it a quick spray with a proper cleaner (can get at any auto store).

[i3ible]

Hello
I experienced the same problem with the engine shaking a few weeks ago. My car is a 328xi it has 55600 miles and started to shake the morning before going to work. I took it to get a diagnostic at the dealer which was $125. It turns out that there was a misfire somewhere in the engine (u can get a reading with a OBD2tool). One or two of the ignition coils or spark plugs was not working which made it run like a 4 or 5 cylinder engine instead of all 6 firing.

So instead of going to the dealer to get it fixed, I just bought the parts myself and worked on replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs myself. I bought 6 bosch Ignition coils (www.fcpeuro.com) oem seller and 6 iridium NGK spark plugs (amazon).

After replacing the coils and plugs I started up the engine with the OBD2 scanner connected and tested out the difference. I noticed the same shaking. So I went back and tightened every ignition coil and checked my OBD2 for a reading. The OBD scanned no misfires after tightening the coils. After a few tests it went back to the smooth engine startup.

If you DIY make sure you have the proper tools. The cable housing underneath the cabin air filter might be a pain to deal with.
I hope this helps, let me know if the problem is something else. I would like to learn how to troubleshoot if its not the ignition coils or plugs.

[ska///235i]

are you sure the coils are the correct part? everything on that site is for older e46 models

Originally Posted by i3ible

Hello
I experienced the same problem with the engine shaking a few weeks ago. My car is a 328xi it has 55600 miles and started to shake the morning before going to work. I took it to get a diagnostic at the dealer which was $125. It turns out that there was a misfire somewhere in the engine (u can get a reading with a OBD2tool). One or two of the ignition coils or spark plugs was not working which made it run like a 4 or 5 cylinder engine instead of all 6 firing.

So instead of going to the dealer to get it fixed, I just bought the parts myself and worked on replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs myself. I bought 6 bosch Ignition coils (www.fcpeuro.com) oem seller and 6 iridium NGK spark plugs (amazon).

After replacing the coils and plugs I started up the engine with the OBD2 scanner connected and tested out the difference. I noticed the same shaking. So I went back and tightened every ignition coil and checked my OBD2 for a reading. The OBD scanned no misfires after tightening the coils. After a few tests it went back to the smooth engine startup.

If you DIY make sure you have the proper tools. The cable housing underneath the cabin air filter might be a pain to deal with.
I hope this helps, let me know if the problem is something else. I would like to learn how to troubleshoot if its not the ignition coils or plugs.

[i3ible]

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...sch-0221504470
this shows the fitment guide for the ignition coil. the only website the doesnt agree with the fitting is amazon.com, Ive been running on these ignition coils for a week now and there are no problems, it actually runs better. The coils were made in germany.

[MDeez]

It could be a cam timing issue. If you manage to move the timing gear on the crank it will throw out the cam timing and make the car run rough. It usually happens if you drive the car hard. other than that if you have the car running and pull the ignition plugs out one at a time you should notice a difference. If you pull one out and there is no difference then that cyl has an injector or coil problem.

[33beto]

have you done a sea foam intake injestion cleaning? try that and if that doesnt help, get a software update. also, check intake hose for cracks and make sure the maff sensor is sealed and seated properly. report back.

Lou.

[alexwhittemore]

I'm surprised nobody's suggested this, but you should have someone check your engine mounts. It wouldn't explain the oil dripping issue you mention, although it could be related (lots of rattling will certainly break things faster). But I suggest it because it's pretty common. If an engine mount has gone, you'll get lots of rattling without much reduction in performance otherwise. And for that matter, you'll notice it much much less at high RPM.

[Patmos330]

I'm having the same issue. With a little trial and error I'm guessing its the camshaft position sensor or the fuel injectors. I'm going to get new sensors first next week and see if that fixes it. I'll report back on how it goes

[TheBingoBalls]

Originally Posted by alexwhittemore

I'm surprised nobody's suggested this, but you should have someone check your engine mounts. It wouldn't explain the oil dripping issue you mention, although it could be related (lots of rattling will certainly break things faster). But I suggest it because it's pretty common. If an engine mount has gone, you'll get lots of rattling without much reduction in performance otherwise. And for that matter, you'll notice it much much less at high RPM.

Quick question. If it was the mount, wouldn't the vibration occur at idle and at throttle? I'd assume if the mount was weak, you'd just feel vibration all the time, no?

[alexwhittemore]

You'd get it most at idle and less and less with high RPM.

Short answer: rumble from an engine mount problem is inversely proportional to RPM.

Long answer: the rumble is your engine shaking back and forth as the balance of the cam shaft goes back and forth. The faster the cam is moving, the less time the engine has to move up and down or back and forth on a mount, the less vibration you feel.

[bbstoke]

Does it go away when you rev?
If it's just on idle could be an engine mount

[manutdas11]

OP.
Seems like you and I have the same problem. I just had my oil gasket replaced, along with plugs and got my car back Thurs. On Friday I was at a stop light and I noticed the RPM go down from it's usual spot on idle. The car started shaking uncontrollably, especially from the front part of the car. The engine felt like giving out and the car turned off. Once I started it again, it had a rough start and Service Engine Soon light came on. Took it back to Indy to get it scanned and checked. Turns out my cam sensor is out. Supposedly there is oil build-up in the VANOS. I'm getting service done Monday, so I'll report back. That might be the problem for you, not sure though.

[Hey Ant]

I had the same problem recently at 57,xxx miles, rough idle and shuts off if idles too low. Personal mechanic diagnosed it and found the problem to be a malfunctioning camshaft sensor. He replaced the camshaft sensor and valve cover gasket, adjusted the valves and runs just like a brand new car again.

[GoRomeo]

man sorry to hear you are having such bad experience with your car with only 50k miles... keep us posted.

[mjm22]

Having same problem 07 328 with 70,000 miles. It is currently at BMW. Tech worked on it today and, from what I can tell, couldn't make sense of it. This is the second time they are looking at it, the first time I was told it was a "glitch" that had been worked out. It is still under the extended warranty/maintenance plan, so at least I have that going for me. On the basis of this thread, I suggested they look at the camshaft sensor (I'm sure the tech's love being told what to do). Thanks for input. Will keep everyone posted.

[Amini77]

It's probably just a spark plug

[33beto]

I still believe is a software issue that hasnt been addressed by BMW and most likely will never be since this "glich" seems to only affect 06-08 E90 models.