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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY -- Repair damaged thread with a HELICOIL
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05-13-2012, 02:49 AM | #1 |
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Vehicle: '09 E93 335i
Disaster! I cross threaded the mounting bolt for a M3 Guide Rod at my 3's Bearing Carrier! After a lengthly bout of execration, steely calm engulfed my wah. I knew what must be done: Travel, to Napa Auto Parts, there to select a M12 x 1.5 [12 mm fine thread, blue pkg] Helicoil installation set. Returning to my ride $80 lighter - Amazon much less but preferred not to wait - angst caused beads of sweat to form.....it was a warm day.....and I had never done this before.... First things first. Verifying that my mount bolt was spinning freely, this job did not require drilling out the threads. Some jobs do -- but my bearing carrier threads were completely stripped out. I removed the bolt - had damaged threads near the tip which crunched & munched all bearing carrier threads going through. Only when the bolt was fully 'threaded' in did I find it could not be torqued! Nothing left to torque against. Ran a cylindrical magnet through the hole - came out with a large ammt of shredded thread, leaving the hole more or less clean. I inserted my tap into an Irwin adjustable tap socket, Home Depot, to cut threads into which the Helicoil will thread: The tap supplied is of the self-guiding type. Just start it in the hole.... ....and ratchet until the tap has cut all the way through: Then, the Helicoil, shown here with plastic install tool and threaded metal shank to thread the Helicoil into the hole: Drop a Helicoil tab first into the plastic installer.... Insert the threaded shank.... Turn shank until a thread or two is exposed. Tab should be at the tip: Blow compressed air through the hole w/newly cut threads to remove debris. Insert Helicoil tip into hole to be repaired and, holding the plastic installer with a wrench, turn the shank, thus threading the Helicoil into the threads you've cut for the purpose: When the Helicoil's fully installed, thread the shank out, leaving the coil in: The tab can be punched off, or left in for the bolt to snap it off as I did: When the mounting bolt's ratcheted in, it threads into the Helicoil which is designed to press against the threads cut with the tap. Result: Successful repair - a new bolt torqued normally to 100 N/M +90° I used Permatex 81343, Ace Hardware, on the threads. Job done! . TIP: Love my GearWrench electronic torque wrench plus angle.... . . Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 03-22-2014 at 07:05 AM.. |
05-15-2012, 02:46 PM | #2 |
No one on the corner has stagger like us
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Solid write-up! I stripped a water pump bolt on my old SR20 build. After I changed my underwear I used one of these kits, problem solved.
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05-15-2012, 02:49 PM | #3 |
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Drives: 2010 335i Xdrive
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Great Falls, VA
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Great write up!
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2010 E90 335i Xdrive| Titanium Silver Metallic | Black Leather | Premium, Sport, Nav, Cold | Steptronic | matte black grilles | Cyba scoops | pinstripes | Rear Fog Mod | Clear Reflectors | WeissLicht AE |More to come...|
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05-17-2012, 05:27 PM | #4 |
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Great write up. Hopefully I will never have to use it. I think having to re-tap/thread a bolt hole (especially a hard to reach one) has to be one of the most disappointing, aggravating and frustrating things ever!
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04-17-2013, 07:56 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for this! I did the same stupid thing this weekend. I had to drill out my hole though. The hardest part was sourcing a drill that would fit in there! I did the other guide rod which is harder to access. Luckily 5 trip to home Depot later, I found the perfect drill. Also, 31/64" is the correct drill bit to use. Don't expect to find that at Home Depot or Lowe's either.
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