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Trying to figure out if I got post shift timing drops
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08-18-2012, 09:55 AM | #1 |
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Trying to figure out if I got post shift timing drops
I know u will tell me to log but I have had nightmares with connecting procede to laptop. I know there is a gauge mode that shows ignition correction. Is it mode 4 and what should I look for at a wot shift. It feels like a timing drop bc when I hit the kick down and the car does the second shift the power drops for a sec and then comes back on. And if I am having a drop what should I adjust in the parameters. I am on stage 0 on the latest 5-23maps. Thanks
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08-18-2012, 10:15 AM | #3 |
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yeah log it lol
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08-18-2012, 10:20 AM | #4 |
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Grr. The only way I have connectivity is procede directly to laptop serial port. My serial to USB cable does not work. How much psi should I be seeing though. I spike to 15 psi and the taper down to about 12 psi from about 5600 rpm to redline.
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08-18-2012, 10:25 AM | #5 |
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sounds right but you are asking about timing post-shift, not boost. post logs. make sure CAN Actual Ign Adv is logged.
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08-18-2012, 10:32 AM | #6 |
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Yup just making sure I am hitting boost targets. Still need to figure out this dam cable. Greer. Sure I can use the guage hijack to assist?
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08-18-2012, 10:40 AM | #7 |
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no, if you want someone to help here, you need logs. The gauge is CAN DME Ign Adv, which isn't "real" timing after the CPS offset calculation provided by CAN Actual Ign Adv. Otherwise it's all guessing.
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08-18-2012, 10:52 AM | #8 |
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Been using a Radio Shack USB converter, no drops. Set to 19200 bitrate, and deselect the option under the advanced settings for "use FIFO buffers (requires 16550 UART)" or something like that. All of that is under the Device Manager, LPT/COM port settings. Oddly enough I can't get the Vishnu recommended USB converter to work at all. This is on an old Vista / AMD laptop.
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08-18-2012, 11:24 AM | #9 | |
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08-18-2012, 11:25 AM | #10 |
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gotcha. Gotta figure out via logging. Understood.
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08-18-2012, 11:35 AM | #11 |
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My 2 cents is that a post shift timing drop will not feel like bog or lag......the acceleration continues smoothly, but feels kind of dull and does not pull as hard. From your description it sounds like transmission sorting something out or you are getting massive throttle closure on the kickdown.....neither of which is timing related.
But yeah....a datalog is going to point you in the right direction. |
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08-18-2012, 12:52 PM | #12 | |
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08-19-2012, 03:32 PM | #14 | |
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08-19-2012, 03:50 PM | #15 | |
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08-20-2012, 08:29 PM | #16 |
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Yeah but how am I gonna get the Cable out of the ecu cover with it closed?
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08-20-2012, 08:35 PM | #17 | |
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If you don't know what I'm talking about, you didn't install the tune yourself, did you?
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08-20-2012, 08:37 PM | #18 |
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08-20-2012, 08:55 PM | #19 | |
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1. On either side of the white ECU box, there are wires coming in and out through rubber grommets. Pull the grommet on the right up, and use a pair of sharp scissors to cut a single slit through the grommet. Feed the wire through the slit and then push grommet down into its original position. 2. Don't latch the sliding locks at the top and bottom of the white ECU box. That way, you'll easily be able to pop the side latches on the right side, and reach inside to pull out your cable.
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08-21-2012, 06:47 AM | #20 |
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Yes I did. Man your answers are always cynical on this forum.
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08-21-2012, 06:49 AM | #21 | |
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08-21-2012, 07:54 AM | #22 |
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No worries brotha. Do you play cricket, cause you just bowled 'em
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