[Koreyy]

I currently have 08 e92 with 56k miles

Looking to spend $2000 ~ $3000 first
Doesnt matter used or new part long as its safe for the car
What to start??

[Koreyy]

What can be done?

[kgroschi]

Originally Posted by Koreyy

I currently have 08 e92 with 56k miles

Looking to spend $2000 ~ $3000 first
Doesnt matter used or new part long as its safe for the car
What to start??

Get COBB Access Port. I just bought my car like 10 days ago and got Cobb for it and I tell you it's such a beast now. I had an M5 before which was very quick but I think this one might be even just as fast. I hit 0-60 mph in 4.5 with a full 91 Octane tank. So it has huge potential with little modification. Check it out! On ebay you can get it for like $800 instead of the usual $900. Strongly recommend it.

[E90Company]

Rundown:

Start with a tune.
-COBB
-JB4
-Procede
I personally run the JB4 tune and love it. You can purchase the tunes used with no problems, however make sure if you buy a procede used it isn't VIN locked.

Next, do Downpipes or FMIC. I reccomend FMIC first in a hot climate. Catless downpipes remove the exhaust restriction (primary cats), and help your turbo's breath better as well as reduce backpressure/heat. Claims of up to 20whp are possible if tuned. I would buy DP's used, as it's just piping.
-AR design (Fit great, high quality welds, most expensive. My reccomendation)
-VRSF ("Knockoff" AR's. Alot of people have had success with them, but all of my local installers told me they have had fitment issues)
-AA, Macht Schnell (Both high quality options that fit great)

FMIC:
You have a number of choices and can't go wrong with whatever you choose. I personally reccomend the ETS and AA FMIC's. Go with an FMIC that replaces all of the factory plumbing, because you don't want to retain the rubber and plastic restrictive piping.

Intake:
The stock intake with a drop-in filter is a great choice if you plan on keeping the boost at around 13psi (Stage 1/Map 1 on the tunes). Otherwise, I would go with a dual cone intake (Vishnu/BMS/AFE/CPE), all the same basically)

At this point you are FBO (Full bolt on). You can get an upgraded charge pipe, diverter or blow off valves, as well as exhaust after FBO, but it isn't really required and won't net you any performance gain. Let me know if you need any more help.

[PR3CI5N]

What E90company said

[sgtfury40]

I just did quite a few mods recently. The car was a stock 2007 335i. First, i installed a vrsf intercooler and evolution raceworks oil cooler. I had to do the refrofit since my car did not come with oil cooler. After these were installed ran them for a week to make sure i had no problems. I then installed a burger motorsports cai and oil catch can to keep oil out of my new intercooler. Ran for another week, again to make sure no problems. Then came the jb4. Installed and ran map 1 for a few days. Set it to clear codes mode, then installed the down pipes and billy boat exhaust. I have been running this set up a couple weeks and everything works great together. I am staying on map one and running 20 degrees cooler, on avg. The reason i did it in steps is so if i had any problems, i could narrow it down quickly. The only hiccup i have had is that on map 0 i seem to get a ses light every once in a while. So for now i am staying on map 1 and with no problems.

[ken1137]

+1 for E90company recommendations and additional comments below:

Cobb A/P: you can get a Pro-tune if you want to incorporate meth
FMIC: I'll add Forge motorsport to the list. Absolutely no trimming and very good quality.
Intake: I'll add Injen DCI to the list, the sounds great.

Note...you may want to change the DV's and charge pipe since you will be at a higher boost level. I'd recommend Forge DV's, great quality and the ER charge pipe.

GL

[Antonio1988]

Originally Posted by E90Company

Rundown:

Start with a tune.
-COBB
-JB4
-Procede
I personally run the JB4 tune and love it. You can purchase the tunes used with no problems, however make sure if you buy a procede used it isn't VIN locked.

Next, do Downpipes or FMIC. I reccomend FMIC first in a hot climate. Catless downpipes remove the exhaust restriction (primary cats), and help your turbo's breath better as well as reduce backpressure/heat. Claims of up to 20whp are possible if tuned. I would buy DP's used, as it's just piping.
-AR design (Fit great, high quality welds, most expensive. My reccomendation)
-VRSF ("Knockoff" AR's. Alot of people have had success with them, but all of my local installers told me they have had fitment issues)
-AA, Macht Schnell (Both high quality options that fit great)

FMIC:
You have a number of choices and can't go wrong with whatever you choose. I personally reccomend the ETS and AA FMIC's. Go with an FMIC that replaces all of the factory plumbing, because you don't want to retain the rubber and plastic restrictive piping.

Intake:
The stock intake with a drop-in filter is a great choice if you plan on keeping the boost at around 13psi (Stage 1/Map 1 on the tunes). Otherwise, I would go with a dual cone intake (Vishnu/BMS/AFE/CPE), all the same basically)

At this point you are FBO (Full bolt on). You can get an upgraded charge pipe, diverter or blow off valves, as well as exhaust after FBO, but it isn't really required and won't net you any performance gain. Let me know if you need any more help.

Perfect!

Originally Posted by ken1137

+1 for E90company recommendations and additional comments below:

Cobb A/P: you can get a Pro-tune if you want to incorporate meth
FMIC: I'll add Forge motorsport to the list. Absolutely no trimming and very good quality.
Intake: I'll add Injen DCI to the list, the sounds great.

Note...you may want to change the DV's and charge pipe since you will be at a higher boost level. I'd recommend Forge DV's, great quality and the ER charge pipe.

GL

+1

[andrew_b]

Everyone so far has talked about nothing but power. If you want to go fast in a straight line, then that's ok. But I'd suggest a slightly different approach.

Limited slip differential (LSD) first. Get the power you already have put down to the ground more effectively, keep the car from using your brakes and cutting power to pretend it has an LSD (note this happens even with DTC/DSC completely turned off). Then do the power and other suspension mods.

1. LSD (quaife or wavetrack, will cost you about $2500 for an already-built pumpkin with either in it from VAC, install about $500 or do yourself).
2. Cobb (watch the private sellers here, and pick up a used one for $650, maybe even less)
3. Other suspension/brakes. With a real LSD, you can run M3 bits, including the M sway bar, busings, arms, etc, in back (sway is only suggested if you have the LSD, others you can do without). Coilovers, and then corner weight the car.
4. Bigger brakes to bleed off the the increased power you have (and will add).
5. Bolt-ons (FMIC, DPs, etc).

[Koreyy]

thank you guys for info with lots of selection
well i did some research also
im thinkin to get these

cobb $600~800 used or new
helix fmic $?? used or new + installation
ar dps $?? around $500 used? DIY
intake undecided reommend?

what you guys think?

[n54gte]

Tune: Whichever you like...they are all good $500-900
FMIC: VRSF or ETS 5in or Helix $450-800?
Downpipes: VRSF for sure...best bang for the buck but AR's are the best in quality and fitment no doubt $300 new or $800 new
Intake: BMS Dual Cones $100 new
Meth: You'll have to find out yourself on the tune you choose $450-600

That should be close to $2500 or around 2000 if you skip meth.

[Koreyy]

Originally Posted by jordan313

Tune: Whichever you like...they are all good $500-900
FMIC: VRSF or ETS 5in or Helix $450-800?
Downpipes: VRSF for sure...best bang for the buck but AR's are the best in quality and fitment no doubt $300 new or $800 new
Intake: BMS Dual Cones $100 new
Meth: You'll have to find out yourself on the tune you choose $450-600

That should be close to $2500 or around 2000 if you skip meth.

yeah something like that. not trying to buy them at once tho
will see how it goes one by one you know

i think with downpipes i could do it by watching alot of DIY
not to sure with Fmic... never messed with it before.

[andrew_b]

You're lucky enough to live near VAC Motorsports - I almost drove 12 hours there so they could install my LSD. Decided it made more sense to have them ship it here and do install locally.

Power is fun, but it stinks that BMW doesn't put an LSD in anything but M class cars anymore...open differential, using your brakes and limiting throttle to pretend there is an LSD there to limit wheel slip. More power = more wheel slip = more power lost.

[chaz_master]

Originally Posted by andrew_b

Everyone so far has talked about nothing but power. If you want to go fast in a straight line, then that's ok. But I'd suggest a slightly different approach.

Limited slip differential (LSD) first. Get the power you already have put down to the ground more effectively, keep the car from using your brakes and cutting power to pretend it has an LSD (note this happens even with DTC/DSC completely turned off). Then do the power and other suspension mods.

1. LSD (quaife or wavetrack, will cost you about $2500 for an already-built pumpkin with either in it from VAC, install about $500 or do yourself).
2. Cobb (watch the private sellers here, and pick up a used one for $650, maybe even less)
3. Other suspension/brakes. With a real LSD, you can run M3 bits, including the M sway bar, busings, arms, etc, in back (sway is only suggested if you have the LSD, others you can do without). Coilovers, and then corner weight the car.
4. Bigger brakes to bleed off the the increased power you have (and will add).
5. Bolt-ons (FMIC, DPs, etc).

Everything kind of depends on what the OP wants to do with the car. I think adding a LSD and new brake system would be a waste of time unless the car is going to be tracked. If it is then I would probably agree that would be the way to go.

[Koreyy]

Originally Posted by E90Company

Rundown:

Start with a tune.
-COBB
-JB4
-Procede
I personally run the JB4 tune and love it. You can purchase the tunes used with no problems, however make sure if you buy a procede used it isn't VIN locked.

Next, do Downpipes or FMIC. I reccomend FMIC first in a hot climate. Catless downpipes remove the exhaust restriction (primary cats), and help your turbo's breath better as well as reduce backpressure/heat. Claims of up to 20whp are possible if tuned. I would buy DP's used, as it's just piping.
-AR design (Fit great, high quality welds, most expensive. My reccomendation)
-VRSF ("Knockoff" AR's. Alot of people have had success with them, but all of my local installers told me they have had fitment issues)
-AA, Macht Schnell (Both high quality options that fit great)

FMIC:
You have a number of choices and can't go wrong with whatever you choose. I personally reccomend the ETS and AA FMIC's. Go with an FMIC that replaces all of the factory plumbing, because you don't want to retain the rubber and plastic restrictive piping.

Intake:
The stock intake with a drop-in filter is a great choice if you plan on keeping the boost at around 13psi (Stage 1/Map 1 on the tunes). Otherwise, I would go with a dual cone intake (Vishnu/BMS/AFE/CPE), all the same basically)

At this point you are FBO (Full bolt on). You can get an upgraded charge pipe, diverter or blow off valves, as well as exhaust after FBO, but it isn't really required and won't net you any performance gain. Let me know if you need any more help.

thanks for info up here. do you know how much people usually charge to install downpipes and intercooler? i might try it with my friend who has tools but not sure yet.

[AndyR83]

I paid $400 for installation of fmic and dp's at the same time.

I have had the VRSF 7" fmic for about a month and i love it. I have their catless dp's too. I run a JB4 tune on either map 2 or map 5 with 93 octane. Map 2 seems to have a little bit more power/better performance.

There are a bunch of intakes and some of them are pretty expensive. The BMS dci costs $100 and performs equally well. After researching them extensively, I concluded that the only reason to buy the more expensive ones is if you think they look cooler under the hood.

[MattMD]

Performance tires before you do anything.

[GTstunna612]

JB4, DCI, FMIC, DPs, Charge Pipe, Meth do all of these and you will have an extremely fast car.

[Koreyy]

Okay about to get used cobb $600 and ets5 $500 fmic prob in two weeks. After installed fmic. What to next?

[Koreyy]

Originally Posted by AndyR83

I paid $400 for installation of fmic and dp's at the same time.

I have had the VRSF 7" fmic for about a month and i love it. I have their catless dp's too. I run a JB4 tune on either map 2 or map 5 with 93 octane. Map 2 seems to have a little bit more power/better performance.

There are a bunch of intakes and some of them are pretty expensive. The BMS dci costs $100 and performs equally well. After researching them extensively, I concluded that the only reason to buy the more expensive ones is if you think they look cooler under the hood.

So installation was $200 each?

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Koreyy

thank you guys for info with lots of selection
well i did some research also
im thinkin to get these

cobb $600~800 used or new
helix fmic $?? used or new + installation
ar dps $?? around $500 used? DIY
intake undecided reommend?

what you guys think?

You're on the right track.

Don't spend too much on an intake. DCIs are just fine.

Once you're FBO, spend a 180$ for a FBO + E85 pro tune by PTF.

[Koreyy]

i just received cobb and ETS 5 Fmic

for map i choosed is stage1 aggressive with stock.

18.2 when around 6000 rpm

18.8 when around 6500 rpm



is this normal?