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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > New Engine



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      11-01-2012, 10:37 PM   #1
Ushan86
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Okay gents, the doomsday has come. I posted a thread earlier about some knocking in the engine. Apparently, something is broken in it. I took the car to a shop, they drained the oil and it has some metal dust in the oil. I guess, there is some serious friction going on in the engine. Oil filter was clean. Oil looked fine (3000 mi) and it was at its optimal level. Now the shop estimated it to be around 2500$ (38 hours of work) or around 4000$ to install a new engine (around 3200 for the engine and 600-700$ for installation).
I was just wondering if anybody has done any sort of engine work before. Any recommendations and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

My car is 2008 328i with 55k on it
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      11-02-2012, 12:38 PM   #2
michbmw
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4K for a new engine installed isn't half bad. first question do you trust this shop and are you sure there is metal dust in the oil and that they didn't put it there?
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      11-02-2012, 12:44 PM   #3
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1.Go get a second opinion and don't mention what the other shop stated.
2.If you end up needing a motor $4k is cheap for motor and installation. I'd do it.
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      11-02-2012, 01:40 PM   #4
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Did they even say what is wrong?!? Does the car still work? I call BS on this.... "OHH you got the dreaded metal dust in your oil..... you need a new engine, that is all"
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      11-02-2012, 02:08 PM   #5
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you're the first person i've heard of diagnosed with "you need a new engine" and not have a reason why... most things are fixable to an extent without replacing the whole engine block. it could be a number of things though... obviously something was grinding on moving parts but that could be anything fromt the crankshaft, piston rings/sleeves, to who knows what... O_o most of this was still require to take the engine out and research the problem, but a WHOLE NEW engine? that makes no sense... is this shop a certified BMW shop or a 3rd stream garage? and as a member said above... make sure another shop comes to the same conclusion before you proceed.
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      11-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #6
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I run my car super hard 90 % of the time and never had the diagnosis of needing a new motor. I call BS as well, I have 70k on my 09 and it has never ever given me a thought of needing a new motor. If you have a rod knock, you should only have to replace the rods and MAYBE the piston. Unless you have a hole on your block, a new motor isn't needed at all. This seems fishy. Any CEL going on? Plus if there's that much friction, you would've had an oil light on everytime you turn the car on and off, the pings would sound different and the mini led screen would've shown the oil sign which would tell you to add 1 qt. The only way you wouldn't know is if you drive your car harder than I do for a very very long time, I highly doubt that part because I go to the canyons every week on very high rpms 90% of the run. I've heard very fient knocks before but they're nothing serious. Id follow that guy's advice to get a second quote
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      11-02-2012, 04:03 PM   #7
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The OP's shop did not say he needed a new motor. I read his first thread. He's got a spun rod bearing which he said was $2500 to fix in this thread. The new engine is just another option and is not that much more considering the price to fix it. Like Johnny D said, get a second opinion. Also make sure you're getting a new quality engine. Nothing is worse than having someone incorrectly rebuild an engine and screw it up leaving you with a headache. Make sure it as some sort of warrenty.
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      11-02-2012, 04:59 PM   #8
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I honestly wouldn't want to rebuild an Alusil block unless I had no other option. Infact, there isnt anyone in my state who specializes in rebuilding them so I would have to get a new motor lol!
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      11-02-2012, 05:40 PM   #9
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You can't really buy an "new" engine. It's a remaned engine. If you buy from BMW it's about $6k. The engine the OP might get is most likely rebuild by someone else.
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      11-02-2012, 06:38 PM   #10
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Thanks for all responses, gents. I would like to give more clarity on my issue:
Car: I bought the vehicle in June and that is my first BMW ever. I put around 9000 mi on it since I bought it. The engine is n51 SULEV.
Knocking: I got an oil change 3k mi ago. I check oil level every now and then. It is always on 3/4 no issues there. No check engine light on. When I run System Check it is always OK.
Mechanic: I took the car to a decent shop that specializes on European cars. The mechanic drained the oil right in front of me ( I was present during the entire process). We looked at the filter and it is clean. The oil is in a good shape except that metal dust that he showed me. Again, no oil leakage or burning.
So the owner of the shop gave 2 options: buying a used engine and installing it; or opening up the engine and see whats wrong. He said most likely we will have to grind (if thats appropriate word. Sorry, we spoke russian) the crankshaft (which costs 500$) and fix the engine that way. Sorry, im not a mechanic and my knowledge of engines is limited to very basics. He looked it up in his system and it says the whole process of fixing the engine takes 38 hours.

Now, Ill definitely shop around and see what other shops say. Im not dumping $4k right away.
Hopefully, I can fix it for less, because I really love the car.

Any other suggestions or ideas?

Again, I appreciate everybody's effort and time.
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      11-02-2012, 07:05 PM   #11
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are you sure it was metal? not carbon or engine gunk of some kind? I know you have a knock but i'm wondering if it is being blown out of proportion a bit. personally i would keep driving it while keeping an eye on everything. these engines tend to knock sometimes but it doesn't necessarily mean you need a new engine. what kind of oil do you use?
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      11-02-2012, 07:06 PM   #12
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also what octane are you running? lower octane can cause a knock as well
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      11-02-2012, 07:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michbmw
also what octane are you running? lower octane can cause a knock as well
I put 93 or lowest 91, depending on availability. I changed oil at Firestone. A lot of people will say that Firestone oil is f up. Maybe. But the receipt says bmw oil.
Also, there is no sound if I dont floor the pedal.
Again, I bought the car 5 months ago, so who knows what the f previous owners did?
Ill try to post a video tomorrow.
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      11-02-2012, 07:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michbmw
are you sure it was metal? not carbon or engine gunk of some kind? I know you have a knock but i'm wondering if it is being blown out of proportion a bit. personally i would keep driving it while keeping an eye on everything. these engines tend to knock sometimes but it doesn't necessarily mean you need a new engine. what kind of oil do you use?
To your point about keeping driving. I thought about that as well. I think the engine will run another 4-5 miles, maybe more if I dont give it a hard time. In that case, ill definitely have to install a new engine and spend those 4k, once it blows up
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      11-02-2012, 07:46 PM   #15
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Honestly, I would keep driving it. If you are concerned I would take a sample of the oil and send it to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ to get it tested. These guys are great and will give you a good indication if there is anything weird in your oil. Test are only like 40 bucks and you can order the test kit online for free. I posted a few examples of of what you get back from them. If there is anything in your oil that shouldn't be these guys will find it!
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Oil Sample 1.pdf (17.4 KB, 107 views)
File Type: pdf Oil Sample 2.pdf (18.2 KB, 88 views)
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      11-03-2012, 01:16 AM   #16
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Fuel Injector Cleaner

After reading some posts I remembered that I used Chevron Injector Cleaner right after I got my oil change done. I used the product because Firestone offered cleaning my injector but after reading some posts I realized that they use Chevron Cleaner and dumped it into the tank myself.
Is that theoretically possible that the dust is a result of using the cleaner?
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      11-03-2012, 01:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ushan86 View Post
After reading some posts I remembered that I used Chevron Injector Cleaner right after I got my oil change done. I used the product because Firestone offered cleaning my injector but after reading some posts I realized that they use Chevron Cleaner and dumped it into the tank myself.
Is that theoretically possible that the dust is a result of using the cleaner?
No.... the cleaner only cleans any possible carbon build up on your injectors. Our engines are not direct injection so it also helps clean a bit of your intake valves. At this point you should take it to another place for inspection or get your oil tested.....
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      11-03-2012, 02:49 PM   #18
Ushan86
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Guys,

Any idea on how much it costs to grind a crankshaft. Also, changing the bearings. How much do the bearings cost? The mechanic gave me an estimate of 38 hours to complete the job. Is this fair?

Just doing some math here.
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      11-04-2012, 09:20 PM   #19
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Alright. To those saying keep driving it... BAD IDEA. His knock isn't pinging or detonating. It's rod knock. If you listen to the video is sounds BAD. Driving your car could mean throwing the rod eventually which WILL require a new bottom end.

The other important thing is to try and figure out why you spun a rod. You don't want it to happen again with your new parts.
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      11-04-2012, 11:47 PM   #20
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Please follow the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpTkwpcBBL8&feature=youtu.be
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      11-05-2012, 06:34 AM   #21
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yep i agree, definitely not a regular knock. you definitely want that fixed sooner then later. i don't know how much bearings costs or grinding a crank shaft. 38 hours of labor sounds fair
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      11-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #22
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for piece of mind (if you can afford it) i would go the replacement engine route, this way you don't have to worry about the same thing happening again or mechanical gremlins lingering around after they tear it apart
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