[hunginator]

Hello,

Car: 2006 BMW 325i Sedan JET BLACK

I recently tried to detail my car with new products that I purchased. My steps were: Wash, Dry, Clay with Nanoskin AutoScrub, Polish with Poorboy's SSR1, and apply Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection sealant.

I noticed a couple days after the detail that my hood has some significant imperfections on it. It looks really hazy and not normal. I believe the correct term is 'marring'.

Can you please provide some suggestions to fix this? Is this because I didn't use the Nanoskin Autoscrub correctly or is it because of the polish?

Thanks!

[DetailAddict]

sounds like from polishing... what machine and pads were you using?

Leo

[P1]

How did you polish? Not many people are using SSR1 these days, but did you do this with a machine or by hand?

[Amini77]

Originally Posted by P1et

How did you polish? Not many people are using SSR1 these days, but did you do this with a machine or by hand?

What's wrong with SSR1 and hand polish?

[P1]

Originally Posted by Amini77

What's wrong with SSR1 and hand polish?

I'd love to see someone polish an entire vehicle by hand, first of all. But secondly, when people polish by hand (and with a microfiber for example) pressure won't be even. You will start off with quite a bit of energy, which will slowly decrease. You will rub and push and scrub and it'll be impossible to get even coverage like you would with a machine.

Also, and most importantly, most polishes won't have time to even BREAK DOWN when you're doing it by hand. Some polishes have DIMINISHING ABRASIVES which means they start off as being quite rough and smooth out as the polish breaks down. If you stop polishing before this happens, your paint will look like POOP.

[Amini77]

Originally Posted by P1et

I'd love to see someone polish an entire vehicle by hand, first of all. But secondly, when people polish by hand (and with a microfiber for example) pressure won't be even. You will start off with quite a bit of energy, which will slowly decrease. You will rub and push and scrub and it'll be impossible to get even coverage like you would with a machine.

Also, and most importantly, most polishes won't have time to even BREAK DOWN when you're doing it by hand. Some polishes have DIMINISHING ABRASIVES which means they start off as being quite rough and smooth out as the polish breaks down. If you stop polishing before this happens, your paint will look like POOP.

A friend and I actually polished his entire car by hand. It was a very light polish though, we were getting rid of water spots that were baked onto the car. Thanks for the tip though, I'll probably get it professionally done..don't want to ruin the paint.

[hunginator]

Originally Posted by DetailAddict

sounds like from polishing... what machine and pads were you using?

Leo

I used the Porter Cable 7424XP with a white pad.

Originally Posted by P1et

How did you polish? Not many people are using SSR1 these days, but did you do this with a machine or by hand?

By machine. Why aren't people using SSR1 these days? Is it not a good product?

[psnt1ol]

Which grade of the autoscrub do you have? How did you break the pad in???? How did you use it..by hand or by machine??? What was your technique?

[hunginator]

Originally Posted by psnt1ol

Which grade of the autoscrub do you have? How did you break the pad in???? How did you use it..by hand or by machine??? What was your technique?

The medium grade. I used it on my windshield first for a couple of minutes but I'm not sure if it was broken it properly - can't tell. I used it with my PC 7424XP on speed setting '2'.

I went through the car with slow passes with the Nanoskin. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to move fast or slow.

[psnt1ol]

Originally Posted by hunginator

The medium grade. I used it on my windshield first for a couple of minutes but I'm not sure if it was broken it properly - can't tell. I used it with my PC 7424XP on speed setting '2'.

I went through the car with slow passes with the Nanoskin. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to move fast or slow.

I do believe the cause is the combination of Autosrub and the softness of the paint. Jet black is a super soft. It doesn't take much to mar it. I feel the paint will scratch if you sneeze on it hard enough.

I have both Nanoskin pads and the wash mitts in both Fine and Medium grades. Medium pad might be too aggressive for your paint system IMO. I used a fine grade Nanoskin wash mitt by hand on a Jet black and noticed maring afterward but then my plan was to polish the car anyway so it wasn't a deal for me.

The 6" pad takes longer to break in than the 4" version. It helps to break it in on your shower doors, mirrors, and any other household glass surfaces prior. Soaking it in warm water before use helps to soften it up as well. When using it with the PC, moderate arm speed with no pressure is ideal. Lube is very important so make sure the surface is well lubricated. Question...What did you use for lube?????? Please don't tell me plain water.

The maring should comes off easily with a medium polish like Menzerna SIP (one of my favorites) but I would recommend you start with a finer polish first. Do a 1' by 1' test spot to see what works prior in doing the entire vehicle. Be sure to use a good light source to inspect your work. Once the process has been determined and proven by the test spot then you will duplicate it through out the car. The key to all of is your technique with your PC. Product plays a part but it is not as big as you think. Good techniques could overcome inferior products but no products in the world could overcome bad techniques.

Good luck...

[hunginator]

Ah, I didn't know that our paints were that soft!

For lube, I used some quick detailer spray by Meguiars that I have on my shelf. I always used to use it for lube when I used a clay bar. Maybe I should just stick to clay barring and forget about the NAnoskin?

[psnt1ol]

Nanoskin autoscrub pad is a good product. It saves me quite a bit of time versus a traditional ClayBar. Like all things....you have to match the right tool for the job.

Since you have the medium grade pad, you have to be realistic. The odds of you not polishing your jet black afterwards will be slim but then I could say the same in regards to a medium grade ClayBar as well.

In general, polishing after claying (ClayBar or ClayBar Alternatives) is a routine procedure for me.

good luck.

[hunginator]

Well, when I get another free day I will try to clay the car again with Nanoskin but with your recommended procedures. Then I will follow up with Poorboy's SSR1 which I believe is considered to be a finishing polish. Hopefully, this will remove the marring and I can get on with my life and apply sealant to the paint.

[DetailAddict]

the white pad that came with Porter Cable? if not, what are you using for pad?

Leo

Originally Posted by hunginator

I used the Porter Cable 7424XP with a white pad.

[liang]

If you used the polishing pad that came with the Porter Cable, then that WILL ABSOLUTELY scratch your paint.

[hunginator]

Nope, lol. The Porter Cable came with a Lake Country CCS pad but I didn't use those ones. I ordered the Lake Country flat pad. Did I do anything wrong?

[jslym777]

There are too many things to consider to tell you where you exactly went wrong here. My advice would be to park the car in the garage and let it cool down. Tape off a test area. When polishing, do left to right motions, then up and down, overlapping 50% of your line. Also make sure you have enough product that you arent dry polishing the paint. Go slow, and use enough pressure that you can see the rotation of the pad slow a little. If the pad isnt rotating you are pushing too hard. Have plush microfibers ready when you wipe the area for residual polish (left to right or up and down motions, never circular) or you will scratch the paint. After youve done your test area take it out into the sunlight to see the difference and report back.