[INR96]

Just installed my VRSF 5 inch FMIC yesterday and took the opportunity to do the CDV modification. Hopefully these pics will help the next person and maybe I can get some tips on fitment.

I decided to take the bumper off to improve visibility.



Stock FMIC with Torx screws.



Since there's been talk about an install gap on the VRSF I took a picture of the OEM gap


Took this opportunity to do the CDV modification while waiting for someone to drop by to help with the FMIC. Here a couple pics of the location.





Clamped the line just barely. Tightened it just enough to stop flow after disconnecting.


Pulled out the retaining brackets



Popped out the CDV valve as described elsewhere. I decided I wanted the OEM look with the CDV in place rather than deleting it just in case...



After I put the CDV back on, clamp was loosened to allow the clutch fluid to start flowing for a wet hookup to minimize air bubbles. Unfortunately I wasn't able to actually bleed the clutch. The bleed valve on mine was in a really tight spot. I couldn't get a wrench in between the reservoir and the drain pan to loosen the nut. Anyone else with this problem? clutch felt ok so I just moved on to the FMIC.


Followed the HPF youtube guide on getting the OEM FMIC out.



Driver side OEM connector:




Passenger side OEM connector:




Home Depot run and bought these:



Seemed that most mentioned the passenger side was the hardest to remove. Both weren't especially easy but it wasn't too bad with the bumper off.
Tight space to stick dremel disk in passenger side marked with arrow:


Passenger side connector. Cut into hose slightly despite my best efforts:


Driver side connector:



I put the passenger size coupler in first on to the car.


Then I put the driver size coupler on the FMIC first as mentioned in another post. In retrospect I kind of wish I put it on the car side first:



I noticed there was irregularity like a drop of solder in the casting at the inlet port of the FMIC:


I decided to put the dremel to use again to make sure it wouldn't cause a leak or difficulty with the coupler:



No one was available to help lift, so FMIC was pre-positioned with a hydraulic jack:



Actually had the most problems with the driver side coupler. It seems when lifting up the FMIC it just pushed the plastic lower charge pipe away and off a rubber grommet it was sitting on.



I had to push down on the plastic lower charge pipe and rotate the coupler to get a tight fit and good overlap. Unfortunately the lower charge pipe alignment was changed enough that it's leaving a small kink in the rubber portion of the upper charge pipe assembly:


The passenger side popped right in with some WD40


I had to finish the rest of the job after dinner and putting kids to bed. Here's the pic of the FMIC in position under flashlight lighting. It's cranked up as tightly as I could with the hydraulic jack and using a hammer driver to tighten the screws. I was actually a little afraid I would strip the hole for the screws. I had one Philips bit shatter on me as I was driving in the driver side screw.



You can see the point at which the screw goes in and the plastic it goes into is pretty tight:


I think the bracket the screw goes through is either slightly too thick or slightly too high in position for a completely snug fit for my 2008 e90 335i sedan. I didn't think it was worthwhile to cut the plastic mount point to make the FMIC sit 1cm higher.



My driver side coupler:



My passenger side coupler:



Bumper re-attached. With my OEM bumper there's no way to tell the FMIC is just slightly low. I doubt it will make any measurable difference in performance in my daily driver.




Sorry for the long post. Hopefully it helps someone else out who needs to install the 5 inch VRSF FMIC. Anyone see any mistakes?

[pcmacdr]

That is one hell of a great write up

[blacknbean]

thx for the pics. have an ets intercooler ready to install one of these days and the pics help alot.

[135Pats]

OP it will make a substantial difference in the summer, the OE intercooler is insufficient for a bone stock car. Nice writeup too

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Time for an ER charge pipe to get rid of that flimsy accordion charge pipe

[cap1]

Great write up and pics!

[Tiago@VRSF]

Great writeup and fantastic pics!

[Ch3ss]

did the cdv delete make a big difference for you? i did the same thing but i didnt really notice a difference im on the fence on deleting the cdv all together.

[busky2k]

How much oil was in your stock FMIC? I'm tempted to remove mine and give it a good clean...

[C9A1L1L]

So with the fitment of this 5" looking so tight, where does the space come from to run the 7?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by C9A1L1L

So with the fitment of this 5" looking so tight, where does the space come from to run the 7?

Meh, more plastic slicing. It really isn't that much trimming though, I don't get why so many people shy away from 7" cores for that reason. Not saying you're doing that, just generally.

[C9A1L1L]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Meh, more plastic slicing. It really isn't that much trimming though, I don't get why so many people shy away from 7" cores for that reason. Not saying you're doing that, just generally.

I'm actually getting the 7" I've just been waiting on VRSFs dead lines for the last 3-4 months to finally have the DP and FMIC avail.

I don't mind the extra work, these 335is are hardly tuner cars, just a few simple bolt ons and self tuning performance software lol, It makes it for a great daily beater car. Love it.

[Ch3ss]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Meh, more plastic slicing. It really isn't that much trimming though, I don't get why so many people shy away from 7" cores for that reason. Not saying you're doing that, just generally.

installed my 7" from vrsf a couple weeks ago without taking the bumper off but i cut the bottom portion of the shroud off instead of trimming it.

[INR96]

Originally Posted by aflyrice

did the cdv delete make a big difference for you? i did the same thing but i didnt really notice a difference im on the fence on deleting the cdv all together.

Drove the car to Austin today and the CDV modification (should have labeled the subject Mod instead of delete...) may have made quick shifts in the 1st to 3rd gear range better.

Honestly I think the car over the last 5 years has trained me to make slower shifts and to apply power more slowly. I remember when I first got my 335i coming from an NSX, the clutch would chatter when first applying power since the CDV was delaying clutch engagement and obviously wasn't fully engaged yet when I wanted to apply power.

I still like the clutch feel on my previous car much better and maybe BMW designed it this way on purpose. I felt like there was more direct feedback in the clutch on the NSX but it was also very easy to stall the car if not shifting correctly. The clutch is mush on my 335i but it feels impossible to stall.

UPDATE: Yes the friction point feels much more reproducible with just the modification and no complete delete. I just need to unlearn 5 years of shifting with the CDV.

[INR96]

Originally Posted by busky2k

How much oil was in your stock FMIC? I'm tempted to remove mine and give it a good clean...

Not too much actually. There was a thin coating around the pipes. Maybe this is because the car has been at stock boost for most of its life. 6 months at stage 1 boost with PROcede. 1 month at stage 2 boost levels.

[DLam]

great write up and looks good

[roadkillrob]

at least hpf has some use left in the world - their IC install video!

[Zero_09]

very detailing writeup and those are some good pictures you taken for the guide.