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Official High dynamic range (HDR) Photo's
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10-03-2007, 01:52 PM | #1 |
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Official High dynamic range (HDR) Photo's
Lets see what members can do to create some of their own HDR Images. I'm pretty new at this but i'll start off with 2 versions of the same image i took.
If you dont know what HDR Images are, here is a good place to start reading about it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_dynamic_range_imaging |
10-04-2007, 09:04 AM | #3 |
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thats an awsome pic law, i love hdr photos when there taken right..
________ Lamborghini espada specifications ________ Cheap silver airsoft spring pistol m757s ________ BUKASHKIK ________ real estate Pattaya Last edited by boostedbavarian; 08-19-2011 at 05:58 AM.. |
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10-04-2007, 12:39 PM | #4 |
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i'm still working on mine.
Photoshop CS2 is being a pain for me - i keep getting errors when trying to made the HDR. I'm using 1 RAW image to make 3 JPG's Last edited by mds82; 10-04-2007 at 11:10 PM.. |
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10-04-2007, 11:11 PM | #5 |
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ANother one i took yesterday
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10-05-2007, 07:49 PM | #6 |
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10-13-2007, 08:40 PM | #8 |
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Here are a couple of my attempts. Each image consists of three photos with exposure compensation values of -2, 0, +2 EV:
![]() ![]() Last edited by wintermint; 10-14-2007 at 09:17 PM.. Reason: the first image I uploaded had accidentally leaked black into the bottom portion of the image |
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10-13-2007, 08:48 PM | #10 |
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The first one is overlooking Machu Picchu in Peru. The second is from the south rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona.
1600x1200 versions: ![]() ![]() Last edited by wintermint; 10-14-2007 at 09:14 PM.. Reason: the first image I uploaded had accidentally leaked black into the bottom portion of the image |
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10-13-2007, 09:01 PM | #11 |
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OK who want to teach me how to use my D40x???? I want to take pictures like this haha. How do I start?
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10-14-2007, 12:42 AM | #13 |
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me 2 me 2 i just got a rebel xti 3 days ago... still messing w/ it... i would eventually love to take pics like those!!!!!
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10-14-2007, 07:55 PM | #15 |
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Camera needs to be flexible enough to allow exposure control. You need to take identical pictures at different exposures and then combine them.
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10-14-2007, 09:47 PM | #16 |
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Thanks. I've just edited my earlier posts of Machu Picchu since
the previous versions had regions of solid black in the middle of the photos (must have accidentally pressed the flood fill tool or something in Photoshop...) To create each image I shot three identical photos but at different exposures (-2, 0, +2). I next used Photomatix to generate a tonemapped HDR image from the three shots. I then used Photoshop to crop and selectively adjust the curves for different parts of the image. I've found this site useful as a guide to using Photoshop to edit photos: http://www.photowalkthrough.com/videotutorials.html |
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10-14-2007, 11:21 PM | #17 |
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OK, I'm sold. I've got to check this out. Almost everything I shoot I bracket, so I have tons of photos to try this with. Now, to find the time to learn...
![]() EDIT: Looks like the challenge is finding photos where I didn't move between bracket shots! OK, that wasn't too hard. First attempt:
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10-14-2007, 11:57 PM | #18 |
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OK, one more. Kinda sucks, looks like I need to start bringing the tripod along.
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10-15-2007, 09:25 PM | #20 |
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When you are doing HDR work, do you have trouble keeping the detail sharp? In the low-res pictures here you can't see it, but when I look at these uncompressed (42MB) blown up full-size (100% on Dell UltraSharp 19" LCD, nVidia GeForce 4 something, old calibration), I see lots of blur or un-natural imagery. Looks like the negative was double-exposed on a film camera. Is this the nature of HDR, or am I doing something wrong? Trying to find a scene where NOTHING moves between 3-5 shots is proving VERY difficult. help?
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10-15-2007, 09:36 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
I litterally started doing this HDR thing last night, so take this with a grain of salt... No, the camera does not give you the HDR pic. HDR software combines multiple pictures of the same scene at different exposures, using the best parts of each scene. However, a better camera can make it easier, it seems. I found that my Nikon RAW files (I'm sure Canon is the same) greatly simplified the process - I didn't have to enter any image data. The Photomatix read the exposure data from the images, and did it all automatically. From what I've read, you want to have 2 or more images of the exact same scene that have different exposures. On the two I posted, I was bracketing my shots, shooting (Nikon D200) at metered exposure, -1/3 stop and -2/3 stop. The D200 tends toward overexposure, that's why I didn't do +/- 1/3 stop. So, that could mean that if the metered exposure was 1/200 sec @ f/4, I took the picture, then the camera would have automatically set the camera for 1/250 @ f/4, and then 1/320 @ f/4. I usually shoot in aperature or manual mode. I don't recall if I set my camera to always change shutter speed when I bracket or if it just came that way. ![]() It helps that the camera shoots pretty quick in Continuous(High) mode - about 5 frames / sec. If I hold down the shutter release, it'll take 3 pics in less than 1 second and then stop until I release my finger from the shutter release.
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10-15-2007, 10:11 PM | #22 |
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I've found that getting the pictures sharp at 100% resolution is clearly
harder than taking a single photo but not super difficult if there are no moving objects in the foreground (trees or grass blowing in the wind, cars, ...). Photomatix has an option to align the images which helps correct minor global shifts, but it's not great if the global shifts are larger. A tripod really helps, and hand held shots are a much more hit-and-miss affair. The two photos that I posted were actually hand held, but shot with a wide angle lens (around 24mm on a full sensor) and in continuous drive mode so the consecutive images were only shifted by at most a few pixels -- something that Photomatix corrected just fine. |
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