[too much]

This is a stock car, no mods, or tuning.

When I try to launch the car on the Hwy, usually in a higher gear (6th) I get a limp mode light. I'm not sure how limpy should that feel - it lacks some oomph, but it's still drive-able.

On low speed, high gear it pulls like always, very rarely I get a limp mode.

I managed (after figuring out how to setup the SW and I kind of guessed how to read the error codes) to get this:

Error: 1 (1) No. 12543 -) x30FF boost control, boost pressure too low
Error type: 8 - (4763) Pressure too low
Readiness flag: (16) fulfills test conditions
Error status: (32) error is not currently available, not debounced OBD
MIL - Status: (48) error does not cause illumination of the warning lamp (MIL)
P-code: P0299 Turbocharger / compressor (Bank 1) - Boost Pressure too low
Pressure before throttle: 124kPa - 142kPa

Any suggestions / advice are appreciated.

[vanondemand]

Check all your VACUUM LINES and make sure they are still connected and that they are not broken or leaking!

[jaykayelemenohpee]

Sorry to thread jack but I've got a similar issue. Can any body tell me the part number for the vacuum canister closest to the driver side? I'm on my phone and unfortunately real oem won't work on my phone.

[AWD Addict]

I'm getting a limp mode just like the OP. Usually when really on the throttle, and more often when under load (lower rpm or going up a hill) while doing so.

Limp mode disappears after one on/off cycle. No code.

I pulled the code and it was

P30FF - Pre-Control boost control, pressure leak to line error on loader 2.

[AWD Addict]

I've solved this. Looks like it was either a combination of two issues, or one or the other.

1) My car was missing a clip that holds the charge pipe steady under boost. On the air duct diagram in the manual, it's called "Bracket, air charge ducting". It's a simple piece of flat metal that fastens to the firewall and to the pipe.
2) The rubber doughnut seal between the charge pipe and turbo inlet was malformed (from heat possibly) and not holding tight. It wasn't melted, but it was out of round a bit, and looking fatigued.

During smoke testing, the car showed no signs of leaks unless the charge pipe was moved around a bit (nothign too major). When pushed (one finger gently), smoke billowed from where the charge pipe connects to the blower. It seems like under high boost/load conditions, the pipe was flexing and shifting, and separating from the turbo, causing a leak.

The seal was replaced, and the bracket was added where the manual showed it. A couple of heavy duty zip ties were also used to help keep the charge pipe from shifting. The car passed the smoke test, and after a day featuring several hard pulls at full boost, the car is building boost much more smoothly, and not throwing any codes/power cut notices.

I'm not sure if the seal's issue was a function of too much flexing due to the missing clip, or heat at the inlet. My mechanic mentioned he only looked for the clip, because when he used to work at a dealership, he found it missing a couple of times, and suspected that could be the culprit.

Either way, problem solved here.

[enrita]

Most common problem and widely documented... Next time just search for the code