[dwells]

I posted this over in the brakes/suspension/chassis forum but figured I'd post it here since you guys are generally a pretty helpful and knowledgeable bunch.

My car had new rotors and StopTech pads put in as of three months ago or so, and then new wheels and tires (Kumho Ecsta LE sport) mounted and balanced as of a couple weeks ago. Upon having the new wheels and tires put on, the shop mentioned that my lower control arm busing on the driver side would be due for replacing soon. Don't know if that's related, but figured I'd mention it. The car has about 63,000 miles currently.

Onto the problems - first off, the steering wheel seems to shake occasionally. I've only noticed it at somewhat lower speeds, maybe between 35 to 60, and it seems to go away after a little while of driving (though that might just be perception). If I let my hands off the wheel, the wheel will turn to the left a centimeter or two, then to the right, then back and forth. Doesn't seem to interfere with the vehicle traveling in a straight line, however, not pulling one way or the other.

Next up is the squeaking. This is happening when I come to a stop or sometimes when letting off the brakes and rolling forward from a stop. Given how recently the brakes were done, I doubt they're at fault. Additionally, I don't recall it happening before the new tires went on. The noise almost sounds like the noise you hear if you're to crank the wheel while the car is not moving. Is it possible the noise is just from the tires being new, or is something else going on?

Also, I've got a loud noise coming from the A-pillar area on the driver's side interior. I do have a slightly leaky window seal, but I'm thinking this sounds more like a rattle and figured I'd mention it in case it's related. There's a number of other annoying interior squeaks and rattles as well - any advice for diagnosing and fixing them would be great.

Thanks everyone!

[E36graduate]

Did you break in those new brake pads and rotors correctly? How about an alignment with the new tires?

Not sure about your rattle in the A pilar? Could be your front control arm is causing all your rattles and problems? Jack up the drivers side front and take a look, move the wheel around, put a bar under the wheel and move the suspension around....

On my old E36 and E46's the control arm bushings will cause some rattles under your feet.

[dave96dcm]

Shake is ALWAYS balance. The squeak is either metallic or ceramic pads. You need to bed them in.

[dwells]

Thanks for the feedback - sounds like I need to take my car back to the shop and have them check the balance of the wheels. As for the brakes, what's odd is that they weren't doing it until recently. I never found a road to bed them on, but after a month in they seemed to be up to full braking performance, so I never bothered. Still think bedding could be the issue?

[Down_Shift]

Oem rotors or after market?

I noticed with the aftermarkets they warp very easily. Which can cause the weird vibrations.

[cwbiii]

I'd get that lower control arm fixed first since it could be the source of much of what you describe. Those bushings control that front left wheels stability and tracking. They can squeak or clunk on starting and stopping if they are too worn. The A-pillar is probably the seat belt deceleration locking mechanism in action. Its close to your ear and sometimes you can hear it.

[dave96dcm]

Bed them in. You can re bed (which is just getting them hot enough to cook off glazing from moderate breaking) every time they start to squeak. Ask them how many grams they are balancing to and tell them the specific speeds. There's no such thing as a "perfect" balance. Just cause they're "balanced" could mean within 15 grams or whatever. Or ounces.

[dwells]

Originally Posted by Down_Shift

Oem rotors or after market?

I noticed with the aftermarkets they warp very easily. Which can cause the weird vibrations.

I went with R1Concepts rotors which are supposed to be pretty good in quality. I haven't done nearly enough heavy braking to get the rotors to warp in the three months I've had them.

Originally Posted by cwbiii

I'd get that lower control arm fixed first since it could be the source of much of what you describe. Those bushings control that front left wheels stability and tracking. They can squeak or clunk on starting and stopping if they are too worn. The A-pillar is probably the seat belt deceleration locking mechanism in action. Its close to your ear and sometimes you can hear it.

The control arm I'm a bit skeptical on, to be honest. The shop that did my wheels said it would need to be done "sometime soon," but it hasn't been mentioned by the dealer when I brought my car for recall service and they do their full inspection (they look for anything they can try to convince you to get service for). I've noticed zero issues with stability, handling is as good as ever, no pulling to one side, etc.

Originally Posted by dave96dcm

Bed them in. You can re bed (which is just getting them hot enough to cook off glazing from moderate breaking) every time they start to squeak. Ask them how many grams they are balancing to and tell them the specific speeds. There's no such thing as a "perfect" balance. Just cause they're "balanced" could mean within 15 grams or whatever. Or ounces.

I'll have the shop rebalance the wheels and search harder to find somewhere I can bed the brakes. Thanks!

[Down_Shift]

Originally Posted by dwells

I went with R1Concepts rotors which are supposed to be pretty good in quality. I haven't done nearly enough heavy braking to get the rotors to warp in the three months I've had them.

The control arm I'm a bit skeptical on, to be honest. The shop that did my wheels said it would need to be done "sometime soon," but it hasn't been mentioned by the dealer when I brought my car for recall service and they do their full inspection (they look for anything they can try to convince you to get service for). I've noticed zero issues with stability, handling is as good as ever, no pulling to one side, etc.

I'll have the shop rebalance the wheels and search harder to find somewhere I can bed the brakes. Thanks!

R1s are known to warp. I actually have a set and have a little bit of vibration under harder braking on the highway.

Search up r1s on here. They are really hit or miss in terms of quality.

But best to just drop by and get a diag. Dave is a great guy to drop in with.

[dave96dcm]

I highly doubt your arm needs replacing unless a tow truck hooked to it. Just go on the highway when your rear view is empty to from 80-40 ish by stopping as hard as you can (use two feet on the brake pedal if you want) you want to almost engauge abs, get as much heat as possible. Do it 3 times in a row then cruise on the highway at a steady speed for at least ten minutes to cool them. Don't come to a complete stop with hot rotors, that's how they warp.

[dwells]

Originally Posted by Down_Shift

R1s are known to warp. I actually have a set and have a little bit of vibration under harder braking on the highway.

Search up r1s on here. They are really hit or miss in terms of quality.

But best to just drop by and get a diag. Dave is a great guy to drop in with.

Great... reviews looked good when I bought them, guess I missed that. Even so, warping in three months without any heavy braking?

Too bad Dave isn't a couple hours away, otherwise I would just drop in.

Originally Posted by dave96dcm

I highly doubt your arm needs replacing unless a tow truck hooked to it. Just go on the highway when your rear view is empty to from 80-40 ish by stopping as hard as you can (use two feet on the brake pedal if you want) you want to almost engauge abs, get as much heat as possible. Do it 3 times in a row then cruise on the highway at a steady speed for at least ten minutes to cool them. Don't come to a complete stop with hot rotors, that's how they warp.

The shop said it was just the lower front arm's bushing that was bad, not the whole arm.

I'll see if I can find an empty stretch of highway some morning or some other road that would be suitable. Thanks.