[Davyhay]

I have seen where people are using shims to prevent kickdown when launching a 6at, but I am looking for a more practical solution. It seems that the kickdown button is merely an electrical circuit, meaning it should not be all that hard to interrupt the circuit with a switch, allowing you to engage or disengage the transmission kickdown.

Has anyone ever looked into this or am I volunteering myself as a guinea pig?

[SoFlo_BD]

Definitely would like to know if this is possible

[_shim]

@sA x sKy


Lololol.

[zeel]

The gripper pad kickdown blocker takes 2 minutes to do.

[Rotary Rasp]

Why not just replace the gas pedal with the one from the MT?

[ashmostro]

It's not a separate switch... it's part of the throttle pedal travel and can only be defeated mechanically right now

[2Times]

Sounds like something that could be either coded out or maybe an option in JB4? I'd like to do this in a non-mechanical function as well.

[ashmostro]

Could probably be address in a flash, but I doubt it could be coded out.

The throttle pedal has a range of 0-107% (or something like that). When you exceed 100% the kickdown is triggered.

The trick I used was a plastic washer of appropriate thickness on the plastic rod that is behind the pedal. That way there is no chance of the blocker coming loose at an inopportune time. Taped-on wedges make me nervous too.

Originally Posted by ashmostro

The trick I used was a plastic washer of appropriate thickness on the plastic rod that is behind the pedal. That way there is no chance of the blocker coming loose at an inopportune time. Taped-on wedges make me nervous too.

Pics please :-D

[ashmostro]

I'll see what i can do this weekend about a pic, but the following link explains the pedal removal process, and then further down that page there's a pic of the pedal from the side. The circular rod you see has a ball end that goes into the back of the pedal which can be popped off by hand once you remove the entire assembly. Then you pop on a washer or spacer of the appropriate height and diameter to prevent the pedal from reading above 100% (I used the JB4 interface to confirm this and choose the right thickness of spacers before reassembling). Then pop the rod back into the pedal and reinstall. Easy and doesn't require any maintenance at all.

[Morning Would]

something .36" thick is what you need for a 335 to keep the pedal at 100% and not enable the kickdown.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by Morning Would

something .36" thick is what you need for a 335 to keep the pedal at 100% and not enable the kickdown.

That depends on where that .36" is located - trigonometry and all. I would still test the readout to confirm.

[OmidHariri]

Why block kick down can someone explain?

[raceyBMW]

Because it sucks when you are trying to do a 2nd gear launch or at the race/road track.

[Davyhay]

Okay, this is certainly some good info. I thought that the click you hear at WOT was actually a switch. I guess I should have known it would not be that easy. I have just been looking for a solution that would allow me to turn the kickdown on and off.

[ashmostro]

Yeah that purely tactile detent is just there to let you know when 100% is exceeded.

[WedgePerformance]

I've had this for over 2 years. You guys need to stop over thinking this problem and find a solution that works for you.

The peddle can be disconnected from the plunger by pulling on it. Its just a ball on socket type connection... Once disconnected, use rubber washers found in your plumbing section at your local hardware store. Tank washers work the best as they are large and thick and come in black and sometimes red. Slide enough over the pin to prevent kick down. Wrap tape on your channel locks to hold the pin and snap the ball back into the socket on the back of the peddle.

You don't have to attach a block or worry about it falling off when you are racing or tracking your car.

For those who don't understand why it's so important to disable this, if you are in a corner and you accidentally kick down in the middle of the corner, there is a good chance that you back end might become your front end and that would not be a good thing. Also, if you are racing someone and you start your pull and it kicks down and over revs the engine, you just lost the race and you might be looking for new valves in the future.

You'll have people also tell you that you just need to learn how to use the peddle and not hit the kick down. Those are people who don't drive an AT or they are just to stupid to know when they need to put a fail safe in place to prevent an accident.

[ashmostro]

Sounds like you have thought through it pretty well yourself there buddy

[WedgePerformance]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Sounds like you have thought through it pretty well yourself there buddy

Yeah, it was a real PITA as you know. But after putting the washers over the plunger, I haven't had one issue or accidental kick down.

[Humann]

This is some good information! I really didn't even know about this. Glad I saw this thread. Thanks guys!!

[ashmostro]

Exactly what I did... perfect solution imo

[LMB335IS]

I have the "burger style" kickdown blocker but don't you need to be able to hit the kickdown switch to enable launch control mode on the DCT? Sad to say but I've had my 335is for 7 months now and never tried launch control.