[slowbutsure]

Just wondering...I use to have a 1993 RX7 rotary Twin Turbo and because of the heat the engine produced, it was always recommended to put a turbo timer on, have a vented hood, bigger radiator, or sometimes just open your hood after a spirited drive.

If HEAT is one of the reasons why gaskets, and other parts of the N54 engine fail, are there any other ways to cool the engine better than what we already have such as the oil cooler. Has there been anything effective in trying to cool the engine better? How about a vented hood? Bigger oil cooler? A fan? Thanks in advance.

[Dave W.]

My advice is to simply avoid stomping on the gas pedal just before you shut down the engine. Just drive like a normal person in the last few miles of your drive so the engine cools down before you shut it off. Also, the DME monitors coolant temp while the engine is off so if the block is heat soaked during shutdown the DME will run the water pump and fans for a few seconds after shutdown, sort of like a built-in turbo timer.

[135Pats]

Forget turbo timers, they haven’t been relevant on well engineered cars in a decade. The DME handles shutdown cooling just fine. Everything else available you more or less just mentioned: additional oil cooler, larger rad, larger rad fan, remove the engine cover and cowl if you really mean it, vented hood…And it’ll still run on the hot side

What he ^^^ said.

Heat isn't an issue for me since all I have is a tune and don't beat on the car at all, but I dropped my oil temps by 10 degrees just by switching brands...worth a shot.

[slowbutsure]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

What he ^^^ said.

Heat isn't an issue for me since all I have is a tune and don't beat on the car at all, but I dropped my oil temps by 10 degrees just by switching brands...worth a shot.

What did you mean by "switching brands?"
thanks

[WNF_335i]

love the "max cooling" feature on the jb4 I believe its menu 6 option 1 to enable it. basically makes the rad fan spin on its full potential only downside is its loud!
Great way to cool oil temps after some pulls

Originally Posted by slowbutsure

[What did you mean by "switching brands?"
thanks

Went from BMW 5w-30 to RLI Biosyn 5w-40.

[marc@x-ph.com]

The water pump, which is electric, will stay on after hours to cool down your turbos if they need to be cooled down.

Also, driving easier the last couple of minutes before turning the engine off, will help since the pump will work less to cool the system down...

All in all, what everyone said, no need to worry.

[BoostAddict]

You can upgraded your oil cooler. On my car I've dropped my oil temps by about 15-20* by changing the oil I use to Rotella T6 5w-40, using just water and water wetter in my cooling system, and by using the BMS oil cooler thermostat. Beside the lower normal temperature, the biggest improvement I saw was in how much faster my car cooled back down after getting hot. I live in Florida where it is constantly high humidity and in the upper 80's/low 90's, so I was happy to see this improvement.

[3000GT MR]

I run a 180* oil t-stat, seems to help a bit water temps. I think our cooling system is pretty efficient. I run 1.5 bottles of redline WW, 1/4gal of antifreeze, and the rest distilled water. Living where its 90's-100 for months on end, plus i go to soflo a lot in the summer I've never had a single issue with heat, and i don't pussy-foot around.

[enrita]

These engines run hot. As long as you dont track it you wont see any issues

[Simple5]

hardware: buy 1m or 335is heavy duty fan assembly and run JB4 MAXCOOL feature. Seen some members do this already

coolant: water wetter

[Tzu]

Sometimes when my car gets too hot, I make it a cool glass of lemonade.

[tropical335i]

Does MaxCool makes both water pump and Radiator fan run faster? One month after I installed a JB4 and enabled MaxCool my water pump died,(crack on the housing) Now call it coincidence,as most N54 have water pump issues,or a crack due to the pump overheating as its running faster for a longer time...i cant figure!

[Miller335]

I personally would only use maxcool if at the drag strip on a hot day while waiting to run.

Otherwise I'd just follow good turbo practices and let the DME do what it thinks it needs to do.

[boris]

Originally Posted by tropical335i

Does MaxCool makes both water pump and Radiator fan run faster? One month after I installed a JB4 and enabled MaxCool my water pump died,(crack on the housing) Now call it coincidence,as most N54 have water pump issues,or a crack due to the pump overheating as its running faster for a longer time...i cant figure!

I imagine that running the already fragile water pump any harder than it does will affect the longevity of the part. Any one look into this?

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by 3000GT MR

I run a 180* oil t-stat, seems to help a bit water temps. I think our cooling system is pretty efficient. I run 1.5 bottles of redline WW, 1/4gal of antifreeze, and the rest distilled water. Living where its 90's-100 for months on end, plus i go to soflo a lot in the summer I've never had a single issue with heat, and i don't pussy-foot around.

Where did you get the 180º oil thermostat? I thought about the BMS oil thermostat delete, but I don't' want to slow down my warm-up times.

I'm running about 38% coolant, 58% distilled water and 5% Motul Mocool. I've seen European coolant manufacturers recommend running at least 30% coolant. Dropping coolant % to 40% boosts cooling capacity about 5%. Going to 30% coolant boosts about 8%.

At a recent autocross, in 75º ambient temps, and about a 50 second run, I'd be just to the right of 250º oil temp (so about 255º) right after crossing the finish line.

BTW, forget about coolant %/boiling point, not an issue in pressurized systems, and buy a coolant refractometer to know your exact concentration if you are going to be coming close to the freezing point of your mixture.

[enrita]

Stett has it

[3000GT MR]

Originally Posted by NoTempoLimitN54

Where did you get the 180 oil thermostat? I thought about the BMS oil thermostat delete, but I don't' want to slow down my warm-up times.

I'm running about 38% coolant, 58% distilled water and 5% Motul Mocool. I've seen European coolant manufacturers recommend running at least 30% coolant. Dropping coolant % to 40% boosts cooling capacity about 5%. Going to 30% coolant boosts about 8%.

At a recent autocross, in 75 ambient temps, and about a 50 second run, I'd be just to the right of 250 oil temp (so about 255) right after crossing the finish line.

BTW, forget about coolant %/boiling point, not an issue in pressurized systems, and buy a coolant refractometer to know your exact concentration if you are going to be coming close to the freezing point of your mixture.

I use a thermostat delete plate and run a improved racing 180* ts to my own oil cooler set up. Warm up time is identical or negligible to when i didn't have any oil cooler at all.

[enrita]

Again there is NO need to upgrade (if u have stock oil cooler) if u dont track.

[HP Autosport]

What Enrita said. The motors tend to run hot just running around. If you do indeed go to the track, all you need is a well engineered FMIC and dual oil coolers from ER. I have NEVER overheated on the track, including a day at Fontana (high speed) last year where it was 125 degrees on track. Did 3 20 minute sessions.

-Mike

P.S. Actually I did go into limp mode the LAST session after 25 minutes straight. Can't remember if it was heat related though.

[NoTempoLimitN54]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

...all you need is a well engineered FMIC and dual oil coolers from ER. I have NEVER overheated on the track, including a day at Fontana (high speed) last year where it was 125 degrees on track. Did 3 20 minute sessions.

-Mike

Mike, is that on the 1M? If so it already has the additional coolant radiator.

Improved Racing thermostat is not meant to work with a stock oil cooler, is it? I can't see how that would work. Guess the BMS delete is the only way to go.