[Sethro]

I searched this forum and could not find a answer

When i check oil with dash, after 10+ mins of driving, it says inactive where it should say "ok". but has the bar showing full oil. it was working fine a couple weeks ago when i last checked.

Anyone had this happen before?
Thanks
Sethro

[Efthreeoh]

If it is inactive a scan with a BMW scan tool will find a trouble code in the ecu.

[Sethro]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If it is inactive a scan with a BMW scan tool will find a trouble code in the ecu.

the code is P2EA1 , what does it mean?

Thanks
Seth

[SMOKE EM IF U GOT EM!!]

Happened to me a year or two ago. Turns out after I got it up on a lift maybe a squirrel or something chewed right through all three wires. Of course this was after I changed the sensor for no reason. So take the belly pan off for shits and giggles to be sure before you get a new sensor. And no the new one doesn't need coding. Good luck

[Sethro]

Originally Posted by SMOKE EM IF U GOT EM!!

Happened to me a year or two ago. Turns out after I got it up on a lift maybe a squirrel or something chewed right through all three wires. Of course this was after I changed the sensor for no reason. So take the belly pan off for shits and giggles to be sure before you get a new sensor. And no the new one doesn't need coding. Good luck

Thanks for the info, I will look under there first before I order a sensor. Is the sensor in the oil pan?
Thanks
Seth

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Sethro

Thanks for the info, I will look under there first before I order a sensor. Is the sensor in the oil pan?
Thanks
Seth

In August I replaced the oil sensor as a DIY. I usually write a DIY when I do new procedures and post it right away. Your thread inspired me to finish the DIY. I've also posted it in the DIY section.

Good luck with the installation. I'd check the connections first, however because the sensor is about $160, so you should make sure the connection is not damaged in some fashion, like by a rodent as suggested above.

[Sethro]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

In August I replaced the oil sensor as a DIY. I usually write a DIY when I do new procedures and post it right away. Your thread inspired me to finish the DIY. I've also posted it in the DIY section.

Good luck with the installation. I'd check the connections first, however because the sensor is about $160, so you should make sure the connection is not damaged in some fashion, like by a rodent as suggested above.

thank you very much, the job looks very easy, nothing compared to a water pump I did not to long ago . The hardest part is getting it all jacked up, man I wish I had a lift

Very nice write up, very helpful
Sethro

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Sethro

thank you very much, the job looks very easy, nothing compared to a water pump I did not to long ago . The hardest part is getting it all jacked up, man I wish I had a lift

Very nice write up, very helpful
Sethro

If you continue to work on your car in the future, I suggest you get the proper long-reach floor jack, and high quality jackstands to set the car on. The investment in those tools is well worth the safety they provide and will allow you to work on any car you own in the future. It's best to have the car safely lifted an supported so you can then concentrate on affecting the repair rather than worry in the back of your mind that the car may fall on you. I'll repeat this until my fingers fall off from typing it, ALWAYS lift the car and place it on four (4) jackstands at the lifting points on the side sills. A car that has all four wheels off the ground and properly supported on jack stands can not roll off and fall on you.

Be safe my friend.

[Sethro]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you continue to work on your car in the future, I suggest you get the proper long-reach floor jack, and high quality jackstands to set the car on. The investment in those tools is well worth the safety they provide and will allow you to work on any car you own in the future. It's best to have the car safely lifted an supported so you can then concentrate on affecting the repair rather than worry in the back of your mind that the car may fall on you. I'll repeat this until my fingers fall off from typing it, ALWAYS lift the car and place it on four (4) jackstands at the lifting points on the side sills. A car that has all four wheels off the ground and properly supported on jack stands can not roll off and fall on you.

Be safe my friend.

I have all those tools and more, I always do just as you mentioned. I have been doing this waaaay to long to take shortcuts, can't even imagine the car falling on me ,

Sethro

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Sethro

I have all those tools and more, I always do just as you mentioned. I have been doing this waaaay to long to take shortcuts, can't even imagine the car falling on me ,

Sethro

Glad to hear so! Some of the maintenance/repair pics I've seen on this Forum scare me sometimes.

I've had a car roll on my arm, when I was a kid helping my older brother check his jeep for a broke drive shaft, not fun. It's why I was determined to get a lift one day; it took me about 20 years waiting for the non-discretionary funds and location to build the garage I now have.

Peace.

[Three_thirty_I]

Awesome write up!! I see your car has the same sump pan that mine does - well, thought that they had the type with the sump plug on the side and not pointing down, so thought that the one on mine was odd...

[hardr85]

I had the same issue on my 06 330I e90. I changed sensor, no change. It took me a while, but I realized whoever had the car before me put an alternator from auto zone, or Oreilys. Those alternators do have the proper voltage regulator, which is responsible for the oil level sensor communication.

If you have a code for ibs, oil level sensor, and water pump, it might be your voltage regulator.