[eforty6_m3]

So starting like 2 weeks ago, my SES light popped up. Oddly enough, I had just busted out my wife's old Android phone (which houses my Torque Pro app) and my OBDII bluetooth adapter the day before, to read codes that a friends car was throwing. The very next morning, I start my car up to begin my drive to work and bam, my SES light is illuminated.

Seeing how the car drove entirely normally to work, I wasn't too worried about the SES light, as these can be triggered by the stupidest things (loose gas cap, for example). After checking the codes, I found only one:
P2400 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit/Open

Since I really had no idea what that meant, I needed to google it and find more info. I also checked e90post and n54tech, my two go-to's! But there really isn't that much information out there for that specific code.

Regardless, I decided to clear the code and see if it would come back up. Sure enough, roughly two days later, it popped back up. Again, I cleared it...but this time, the code popped back up the next day. That next day, I cleared it once more and it popped back up later the same day.

So there's definitely something going on, just not entirely sure what it is. My car is driving normally, so nothing obvious is going on.

Going back to my point about googling the code, these are the threads I found which mentioned it:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ap-replacement

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=260065&page=1

The second link mentions the DMTL, or Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage. From what I've gathered, I believe this is another name for the LDP (leak detection pump), item number 2: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=16&fg=10

So it sounds like the pump that is used to detect leaks (I believe, in the fuel tank) is on its way out, but wanted to see if anyone else has run into this exact same issue and how they resolved it. What confuses me is that the majority of people who have had to replace the pump never actually mention the P2400 code. Some have mentioned the P2402 code, but not the P2400.



Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[vapore0n]

Do you happen to have some other service coming up soon? Like oil change?

My SES light came up at 3000 miles to next oil change, which was expected. I read the code and use the same Torque app and got the same code. I cleared it and it came back up.

Im wondering if the OBD2 or the app doesnt read the code correctly or correlate it to the correct one. Ill find out when I take my car to get the oil change.

In the past, I had the same error code and the dealer just replaced the gas cap. So who knows if its that again.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by vapore0n

Do you happen to have some other service coming up soon? Like oil change?

My SES light came up at 3000 miles to next oil change, which was expected. I read the code and use the same Torque app and got the same code. I cleared it and it came back up.

Im wondering if the OBD2 or the app doesnt read the code correctly or correlate it to the correct one. Ill find out when I take my car to get the oil change.

In the past, I had the same error code and the dealer just replaced the gas cap. So who knows if its that again.

Um I don't...and I do all my own "basic" maintenance (oil, brakes, fluids, etc.). But I am bringing my car to Chandler Auto Body on Saturday for walnut shell blasting. I can maybe talk to them and see if there's anything they can check for me.

Replaced the gas cap, huh?! Interesting. Keep me posted when you eventually get your oil change, if you wouldn't mind. Thanks!

[Bronze]

I had that code come up about two months ago when we had a small warm spell. It went away on its own, and then last Thursday, another warm up to 40F, and the code (with Service Engine Soon lamp) came back.

It's probably either the evap pump, or sometimes the solenoid to open the evap system. I thought it might be covered as an emissions item, but I recently learned here at work that modules that STORE the codes are required to be covered as emissions components, but not necessarily the faulty component itself.

I may just drive with it for a little while (it shouldn't affect mpg), and fix it when the weather gets warmer or I get tired of looking at the service lamp. The evap system typically has a pressure bleed down algorithm, and so a small leak can set this code. Different OEMs can do it differently, and I'm more familiar with Fords than BMWs for emissions.

[bavaddict]

Few pointers and YMMV:

1) Check the rear wheel passenger well liner and look for the plastic piece that covers the DMTL pump. If you hit something this plastic shield that covers the DMTL pump, its connector, as well as the vaccum hoses may break and you may have damaged the connector that plugs into the DMTL pump. You should be able to check this fairly quickly (jack up the car high enough so you can get under the rear bumper, remove rear passenger wheel, remove the plastic shield and check).

2) If step 1 turns out ok, your indy may be able to run dianostic on the DMTL pump and testing it may reset the pump which may resolve the issue.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted!

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Bronze

I had that code come up about two months ago when we had a small warm spell. It went away on its own, and then last Thursday, another warm up to 40F, and the code (with Service Engine Soon lamp) came back.

It's probably either the evap pump, or sometimes the solenoid to open the evap system. I thought it might be covered as an emissions item, but I recently learned here at work that modules that STORE the codes are required to be covered as emissions components, but not necessarily the faulty component itself.

I may just drive with it for a little while (it shouldn't affect mpg), and fix it when the weather gets warmer or I get tired of looking at the service lamp. The evap system typically has a pressure bleed down algorithm, and so a small leak can set this code. Different OEMs can do it differently, and I'm more familiar with Fords than BMWs for emissions.

Excellent description and input, much appreciated! Like you, I'm probably going to wait until the spring to replace the pump (assuming it ends up being the culprit). Thank you!

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Few pointers and YMMV:

1) Check the rear wheel passenger well liner and look for the plastic piece that covers the DMTL pump. If you hit something this plastic shield that covers the DMTL pump, its connector, as well as the vaccum hoses may break and you may have damaged the connector that plugs into the DMTL pump. You should be able to check this fairly quickly (jack up the car high enough so you can get under the rear bumper, remove rear passenger wheel, remove the plastic shield and check).

2) If step 1 turns out ok, your indy may be able to run dianostic on the DMTL pump and testing it may reset the pump which may resolve the issue.

Hope this helps. Keep us posted!

Re: 1), I think I'll do that sooner rather than later...I guess I originally assumed a visual inspection would be pointless, but after seeing what you suggested, might be worth my time to see if there are any obvious issues with any of that stuff.

Re: 2), also a good suggestion. Might see if the shop can do that Saturday when she's in for her walnut blasting!

I'll definitely keep you guys posted. This is very helpful stuff!

[vapore0n]

Finally took my car for service. They read the ses code and said it was a faulty emissions lead detection pump. They also found that the battery cable sensor was going bad or bad. Don't know. That didn't show up on the codes read.

Anyway, total cost for both would have been $900. I just saw that the pump is less than $200 and installation is easy. I'll just get that done one it warms up.
Right now the code was reset, so at let I don't have the ses light on.

[vapore0n]

More details:

Here is what the diagnostic papers say:

Check engine light:
Battery IBS(neg cable)
DMTL(evap pump)
Estimate: $453.57

Now I know I heard over the phone a $900 ish quote. That would put these repairs at 3.5 hrs.
I had read the codes myself and saw nothing about the IBS. They might have seen the a battery drain? Or maybe the battery itself is getting old and they think its that sensor?
This is just one of those things that puts me off for buying another BMW. Cant have the car sit around for more than 2 weeks else it drains itself.

Reading around the interwebs, I see this IBS could show up as a code if the car ever gets low on battery power, which happens all the time when I'm detailing the car. So I guess I shouldn't worry about it for now. New battery will have to come in next year, at the 5 year mark. This is one of those preventive things I do.

[bavaddict]

Originally Posted by vapore0n

Finally took my car for service. They read the ses code and said it was a faulty emissions lead detection pump. They also found that the battery cable sensor was going bad or bad. Don't know. That didn't show up on the codes read.

Anyway, total cost for both would have been $900. I just saw that the pump is less than $200 and installation is easy. I'll just get that done one it warms up.
Right now the code was reset, so at let I don't have the ses light on.

DMTL pump is super easy to replace. I have replaced one and used BOSCH OEM DMTL pump which was only $70 (if i remember correctly) online. Check autopartsway.com or fcpeuro.com. I would say you would be done in an hour at most.

Good luck.

[vapore0n]

The dealer had cleared the code and it finally came back. It was expected.
The Torque app would not clear the code, so now I got the SES light on.

Just ordered it ($74). Procedure looks easy enough. I just need to wait for a warm day.

[vapore0n]

Still havent replaced it. Weather hasnt been cooperating.
I did learn that the pump is on the rear driver side for the 335i.

I also learned how to clear the SES code with the Torque app. Press Start button to put the car in ready to start mode and then clear the code. Code will not clear if the car is running, and the device will not connect to the ECU if the car is not in ready to start mode. Hopefully this weekend weather will cooperate.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by vapore0n

Still havent replaced it. Weather hasnt been cooperating.
I did learn that the pump is on the rear driver side for the 335i.

I also learned how to clear the SES code with the Torque app. Press Start button to put the car in ready to start mode and then clear the code. Code will not clear if the car is running, and the device will not connect to the ECU if the car is not in ready to start mode. Hopefully this weekend weather will cooperate.

I appreciate all of the updates, man! Same here...I'm waiting for the warmer, DRIER weather before I buy the pump and attempt to replace it. For now, I've just got used to driving with the SES light. Like you, I've cleared it with the Torque app, at which point it will usually remain off for a day or so. But without fail, it always pops back up.

Where did you end up ordering the pump from? Do you happen to have the part # handy? I realize I could look it up, but perhaps you could spare me the 5 minutes it would take!

[vapore0n]

bought it from oembimmerparts.
my part number was 16137193479E9X, BMW E90/E92/E93 3-Series Fuel Vapor Detection Pump OEM (Bosch brand)

[michaelserom]

Hey guys,

I've had this same exact code(P2400) pop up on my dash as well, I purchased the car 2 weeks ago with 71,xxx KMs and I've had the code come up 4 times; I cleared the code after each time.

I've had the DMTL pump replaced with a used one the indy had sitting around, as well as some cable repair to the pump itself.

Came back again today... 4 days after the Indy replaced it.

Any updates on your end OP?

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by michaelserom

Hey guys,

I've had this same exact code(P2400) pop up on my dash as well, I purchased the car 2 weeks ago with 71,xxx KMs and I've had the code come up 4 times; I cleared the code after each time.

I've had the DMTL pump replaced with a used one the indy had sitting around, as well as some cable repair to the pump itself.

Came back again today... 4 days after the Indy replaced it.

Any updates on your end OP?

Wonder if the used pump that your indy shop had was near the end of its life, anyway. Any idea how many miles were on it?

As for me, nothing new yet. Plan on picking up a new pump by the end of the month and installing it sometime at the beginning of May. I'll keep you all posted.

[Thorium]

Hi guys
I have the exact same issue for month. It embarrass to sit in a fairly new BMW, that wont start. While coworker drove off So finally i have SES=P2400 code came up. Cleared it with torque app and haven't come back. Checked fuse and tried IBS connector solution but no help. Battery reading is good. That left out starter or the alternator? Are there anything else i haven't try , befor bring it to the stealer?

[vapore0n]

The p2400 code wont make the car not start. I've had it since February.

[vapore0n]

Update:

Finally got some time to fix the car. Procedure is fairly easy. Remove the wheel, wheel well cover, the plastic cover under the carbon canister, and the canister itself. The pump is bolted to the canister. Be sure to unplug the plastic pipes from the canister first. They seem brittle.
Required tools: Set of Torx T bits. You will need 2 different ones. Like T30.

After pulling out the carbon canister, I noticed that it had some white residue blocking one of the outlets. Anyone know what it is? I cleaned it up so the canister could breathe.

I also noticed that my problem might have not been the pump, but the cable connecting to it.
The pump cable was rubbing the plastic that covers the canister area to the point where it rubbed the copper off. There was no connection at all. I fixed that and put something to prevent the plastic cover from rubbing anything else.

And now for some pics

Arrow points to the plastic that rubbed the cable


Pump is the white plastic. Everything else is the carbon canister


White residue


The missing connection

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Thorium

Hi guys
I have the exact same issue for month. It embarrass to sit in a fairly new BMW, that wont start. While coworker drove off So finally i have SES=P2400 code came up. Cleared it with torque app and haven't come back. Checked fuse and tried IBS connector solution but no help. Battery reading is good. That left out starter or the alternator? Are there anything else i haven't try , befor bring it to the stealer?

It's been a while, so how did you end up making out? What was the culprit?

Originally Posted by vapore0n

Update:

Finally got some time to fix the car. Procedure is fairly easy. Remove the wheel, wheel well cover, the plastic cover under the carbon canister, and the canister itself. The pump is bolted to the canister. Be sure to unplug the plastic pipes from the canister first. They seem brittle.
Required tools: Set of Torx T bits. You will need 2 different ones. Like T30.

After pulling out the carbon canister, I noticed that it had some white residue blocking one of the outlets. Anyone know what it is? I cleaned it up so the canister could breathe.

I also noticed that my problem might have not been the pump, but the cable connecting to it.
The pump cable was rubbing the plastic that covers the canister area to the point where it rubbed the copper off. There was no connection at all. I fixed that and put something to prevent the plastic cover from rubbing anything else.

Sorry for the delay, but excellent write-up, man! It was super helpful for me when I finally got around to replacing my pump.

But stupid me, forgot that once I cleared my codes, I'd need to drive long enough for the ECU to reset and instead, drove straight to my neighbors shop for an inspection sticker (I was due for a new one in April). And so their software caught the recently cleared code and I got a rejection sticker. Better than nothing, especially if I get pulled over again. Non-issue, though, as once I get enough miles on the car, I'm going back for a re-test.

[eforty6_m3]

Anddddddddddddd.......it's back. After taking the drive to Newport,RI on Saturday (50 mile round trip), I figured I was in the clear since the SES light never popped up.

Yesterday morning, however, I go to start my car to head to Bristol,RI for an e30 meet and bam, SES light is back on. I check codes and again, the P2400 code is back.

So I'm beyond annoyed that it looks like I spent $75ish on a new pump when that perhaps wasn't the issue, after all. Need to try and diagnose why I keep getting mine, so I can get rid of my lovely, new Rejection sticker.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Would love to avoid the dealer at all costs.

[Bronze]

Make sure your clamps and hoses are OK, especially since your car is 7 years old, the hoses will start getting brittle now.

Also, is the pump on the driver side rear wheel or passenger? It's written above it's passenger side, but in the diagram in a link, it looks like it's the opposite side of the fuel filler, so that means driver side rear wheel area.

I'm tired of looking at my SES light, so I'm about to start addressing my code. I actually had 2400 and 2401 set the last time I pulled codes.

[eforty6_m3]

Originally Posted by Bronze

Make sure your clamps and hoses are OK, especially since your car is 7 years old, the hoses will start getting brittle now.

Also, is the pump on the driver side rear wheel or passenger? It's written above it's passenger side, but in the diagram in a link, it looks like it's the opposite side of the fuel filler, so that means driver side rear wheel area.

I'm tired of looking at my SES light, so I'm about to start addressing my code. I actually had 2400 and 2401 set the last time I pulled codes.

My pump was on my driver-side rear wheel well. I hear you...I feel like I'm driving a piece right now with the SES light on, ugh.

I'll check hoses and clamps. You mean the ones specific to the pump, or any fuel-related hose/clamps?