[CFalls]

Just got out of my Z and finally bought me a 335i within this last month, love the car, but a week into having it I'm getting all sorts of issues causing me to reevaluate my decision to leave my trust Nissan.

First thing I noticed was shuddering while driving(idle was fine), if it started shuddering and I gassed it, it would be fine until I dropped back to a consistent speed, then the shuddering would begin again. After about 200 miles of this the SES illuminated.

This progressed to where if the car began shuddering, and I went to gas it a little it, there was no response, the car would just begin to shake/ vibrate and would sometimes cause the SES light to flash a few times, at this point idling began to be rough. Also I would get a burning smell at times in the cabin.

Took my vehicle to an indy shop and these are the codes I got

2AAF Fuel pump, plausibility

2A2B Mixture Control

29E0 Mixture Control

29CD Combustion misfires, cylinder 1

29CF Combustion misfires, cylinder 2

29CE Combuistion misfires, cylinder 3

29CC Combustion misfires, several cylinders

2C27 Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter, system check

2C3b Oxygen sensor before catalytic converter, not connected

2EF4 Map thermostat, mechanism

2AAF Fuel pump, plausibility

I was told 3 of my injectors were bad, (cylinder 1,2, and 3 obviously), and my low pressure fuel sensor, spark plugs, and thermostat needed to be replaced. As well as my valve cover gasket, oil filter stand gasket, and a transmission leak needing repair for a GRAND TOTAL of 4,500$. Tough pill to swallow after driving my new car under 500 miles, but I'm not giving up on it.. Trying to get the used car lot that I bought the car from out of Florida to help with repairs but no luck there ofcourse..

Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these issues and if what the shop quoted me sounds right? or any other input that would help with the situation. Everything is appreciated, thanks!

Car is an e92 2007 335i with 85xxx by the way.

[Jklad]

Start reading up in the n54 section. Lots of info to familiarize yourself with. Ask this question there and you will get much better responses from folks who know.

I don't want to speculate yet, but there's an order to follow when diagnosing misfires. Read up on the official n54 misfire thread.

[Jklad]

Just my 2 cents:

I would Ignore the tstat for now - you did not pull any codes for it, and if you decide to replace tstat you have to do the water pump also

It could be as simple as needing a new hpfp, which is under warranty for 8 years 120k miles

Also injectors are under warranty for certain years. Look up the bulletins for both to determine your eligibility.

Oil leaks can wait for a bit. Unless it's your valve cover leaking into bank one causing the misfires.

Also LP sensor is cheap an easy to replace, easy repair to knock out. They typically do this when they replace the hpfp.

[CFalls]

Thanks for the reply JKlad, I really appreciate it. I was told by the shop that they switched around coilpacks so it's definitely not the coilpacks and I was also told the HPFP was "above 50 bar" so that shouldn't be the issue.

I'm ready to buy these injectors(called BMWNA, they said mine were scanned in 2011 and not eligible), LPFS and sparkplugs and give this a run myself, really just wanted to make sure everything the shop was saying sounded right so I don't spend unneeded money.

[Bbacho2002]

Get it fixed man! I bought my car out a dealership in Florida too and after driving less than 50 miles I need a new engine due to a faulty injector dumping too much oil into engine and throwing a rod! And like u said. Dealer in Florida wants nothing to do with it! $7k repair ..

Long story short! If u think u can do it give it a shot! Injectors aren't plug and play , they have to be coded to the car!

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Bbacho2002

Get it fixed man! I bought my car out a dealership in Florida too and after driving less than 50 miles I need a new engine due to a faulty injector dumping too much oil into engine and throwing a rod! And like u said. Dealer in Florida wants nothing to do with it! $7k repair ..

Long story short! If u think u can do it give it a shot! Injectors aren't plug and play , they have to be coded to the car!

Faulty injector dumping too much oil into the engine? I'm not sure that's physically possible....

[Bbacho2002]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Faulty injector dumping too much oil into the engine? I'm not sure that's physically possible....

It happened to me

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Bbacho2002

It happened to me

Man that sucks, I've just never heard of fuel injectors dumping oil...unless you meant fuel....which is still odd. Hope it gets sorted out.

[pits200]

These cars are expensive to maintain at high miles. So get ready to do some diy jobs or open up your pocketbook. You should def start with plugs, then walnut blasting the valves. At your mileage also, perhaps the tstat and wp aren't causing the current issue but be prepared because those go around 80k miles. If your car has had the injectors swapped in the recall already I'd be surprised if that was the issue again. Leaky injectors cause an idling issue usually. So start with plugs which are cheap the go from there.

Also, do you have any mods? Sounds like your issue could be o2 related.

[Bbacho2002]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Man that sucks, I've just never heard of fuel injectors dumping oil...unless you meant fuel....which is still odd. Hope it gets sorted out.

I meant to say dumping too much FUEL!!! In my engine mixing with oil !!

[CFalls]

Originally Posted by pits200

These cars are expensive to maintain at high miles. So get ready to do some diy jobs or open up your pocketbook. You should def start with plugs, then walnut blasting the valves. At your mileage also, perhaps the tstat and wp aren't causing the current issue but be prepared because those go around 80k miles. If your car has had the injectors swapped in the recall already I'd be surprised if that was the issue again. Leaky injectors cause an idling issue usually. So start with plugs which are cheap the go from there.

Also, do you have any mods? Sounds like your issue could be o2 related.

I will say I bought this car understanding that that's how it would be, just wasn't ready for it to come so fast lol.

And the car is bone stock, other than a few cosmetic mods that I just added. I will try to spark plugs asap. The shop was putting a pretty large emphasis on the low pressure fuel pump sensor so I think I'm going to give that a go as well and report back, thanks for your reply!

[pits200]

No problem, goodluck. If you're going to change the lp fuel sensor you might as well learn how to do the walnut blast since you end up taking off a lot of the same parts to do a lp fuel sensor replacement.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by CFalls

I will say I bought this car understanding that that's how it would be, just wasn't ready for it to come so fast lol.

And the car is bone stock, other than a few cosmetic mods that I just added. I will try to spark plugs asap. The shop was putting a pretty large emphasis on the low pressure fuel pump sensor so I think I'm going to give that a go as well and report back, thanks for your reply!

LP sensor change is easy and quick, was causing me grief for almost a year and I just changed it. Purchase the correct sensor for your year vehicle. On my 07, there's an updated sensor that comes with an updates fuel line, which is redesigned to eliminate the problem causin the failure. I opted to by the old sensor and not replace the fuel line to keep it simple, which is what most people do.

disconnect charge pipe at the tb, undue cp torx screw. disconnect dv's at the cp, push cp down and out of the way. Then Remove 4 tb bolts, push tb out of the way. Slide out the control box (read up on various methods to remove, common sticking point). Disconnect sensor at the control box (unless you can get it off at the sensor). Use24mm wrench to remove sensor. Honestly takes about hour start to finish.

[CFalls]

Originally Posted by Jklad

LP sensor change is easy and quick, was causing me grief for almost a year and I just changed it. Purchase the correct sensor for your year vehicle. On my 07, there's an updated sensor that comes with an updates fuel line, which is redesigned to eliminate the problem causin the failure. I opted to by the old sensor and not replace the fuel line to keep it simple, which is what most people do.

disconnect charge pipe at the tb, undue cp torx screw. disconnect dv's at the cp, push cp down and out of the way. Then Remove 4 tb bolts, push tb out of the way. Slide out the control box (read up on various methods to remove, common sticking point). Disconnect sensor at the control box (unless you can get it off at the sensor). Use24mm wrench to remove sensor. Honestly takes about hour start to finish.

Jklad, you da man, thank you sir

J/W what issues what the LP sensor giving you?

[Jklad]

The symptoms were mostly anecdotal observations - I could not get the car to throw any codes for months which was driving me nuts.

Just as FYI, I also replaced all my vacuum lines together with the lpfsensor since I found a small vacuum leak, which likely compounded the negative effects I was seeing. Very hard to spot - I had to physically move my old vacuum lines (behind the ofhg) in various directions in order to see where they were cracking.

Main symptom was: Rough idle at cold start( not always, and to different degrees each time, sometimes started fine, other times sounded like my motor was broken)

P29f4 and p29f5 - cat codes or rear o2 sensor, but these codes only came on more recently and for the longest time I had no codes at all.

Mushy, less responsive throttle, sometimes were worse than other times, regardless of speed. More noticeable at mid to low rpm.

Car felt slightly down on power
6mt, rev's at idle were not nice and snappy.

Edit: my rough idle still exists, came back this morning...ugh