[Jules59]

Lowering increases the camber. Having installed Eibach Pro springs I had the car aligned by a local suspension specialist to ZSP settings.
Everything went well except the LH rear wheel camber remains excessive even with full adjustment and we were unable to get the camber below 2o 25' ( 1o 50' +/- 25' being the target).
The RH wheel could be adjusted down to 1o 50'.

The car appears to be true and square and so I cant explain why the RH wheel has too much camber.

Anyone else had this problem ? If so what did you do about it ? Eccentric KMAC bushes perhaps?

[danb21t]

I've just fitted the b12 kit and have it booked in for a full geo setup at WIM on Thursday.

What alignment specs are there? I'll let you know what mine is afterwards

[Dan-danGT]

Would it not be easier to replace the suspension arms on that hub as they could be a slightly bent arm causing it not to adjust fully?

[Ajs_435d]

Toe arms too short.

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by Dan-danGT

Would it not be easier to replace the suspension arms on that hub as they could be a slightly bent arm causing it not to adjust fully?

The eccentric washer is rotated so that the strut is as far inboard as can be.
A bent arm would in effect be shorter wouldnt it?

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by ajs_335d

Toe arms too short.

But why one side and not the other ?

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by danb21t

I've just fitted the b12 kit and have it booked in for a full geo setup at WIM on Thursday.

What alignment specs are there? I'll let you know what mine is afterwards

I was advised to go for the ZSP setup. The suspension guys just downloaded it
via their equipment.

[doughboy]

Originally Posted by Jules59

The eccentric washer is rotated so that the strut is as far inboard as can be.
A bent arm would in effect be shorter wouldnt it?

E9x has a 5-link multilink rear suspension remember.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...30&hg=33&fg=30

Could be a bent (or worn) top arm, pulling the top side inwards a little, or if its worn, just giving under load to allow the top of the hub to lean in too far.

Top arms are much weaker than the meaty main bottom arm. (Thus cheaper too)

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by doughboy

E9x has a 5-link multilink rear suspension remember.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...30&hg=33&fg=30

Could be a bent (or worn) top arm, pulling the top side inwards a little, or if its worn, just giving under load to allow the top of the hub to lean in too far.

Top arms are much weaker than the meaty main bottom arm. (Thus cheaper too)

Thanks - the lower strut is a fairly substantial pressing and looked OK to me - I'll now have a look a the top arm - didnt really inspect them in detail.

[danb21t]

Did they indicate if any of the arms/bushes were worn? They should have checked it out if the values were that different between the sides..

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by danb21t

Did they indicate if any of the arms/bushes were worn? They should have checked it out if the values were that different between the sides..

Thanks
Car has only done 40K miles. A check for worn bushes was made and nothing showed up but Im going to double check.

[danb21t]

Mine is in tomorrow will pop the results up

[Dan-danGT]

I was just guessing with a bent arm, you never know roads are crap! Just a possibility I was throwing out there althought you was probably happy not hearing it I would think

[Jules59]

Originally Posted by Dan-danGT

I was just guessing with a bent arm, you never know roads are crap! Just a possibility I was throwing out there althought you was probably happy not hearing it I would think

No worries , Im happy to entertain any ideas as Im still puzzled.

[Icekube]

unlikley to be a bent arm, that would affect other settings apart from just camber.


a possibility, from my previous cars (Audi B5 Quattro platform) is that the subframe has "adjustment" in it, as in where its bolted up, there is mm of movement side to side (this isn't intentional, just tolerances), normally this isn't an issue with stock settings, as there is enough adjustment to get both sides the same, but when trying to get the extremes of adjustment, it rears its head. a couple of mm to one side on the subframe is enough to restrict the camber adjustment on one side of the car

[doughboy]

The rear subframe on a E9x is 4-point rubber bush mounted with no adjustment.

Even if it did move (it does under load anyway) it would have no effect on hub geometry as ALL 5 suspension links are mounted to the subframe, so the camber/toe etc will never alter as the frame moves.

On an E9x A bent rear top link would increase neg camber and also increase toe in. They will dial out the toe with the toe-link adjustment, but the bent top link would restrict +camber adjustment via the bottom link.

[Icekube]

Originally Posted by doughboy

The rear subframe on a E9x is 4-point rubber bush mounted with no adjustment.

Even if it did move (it does under load anyway) it would have no effect on hub geometry as ALL 5 suspension links are mounted to the subframe, so the camber/toe etc will never alter as the frame moves.

the B5 platform subframe is also 4 point rubber mounted, it doesnt have "adjustment" per-se.

but yes, i had forgot that the E9x suspension all terminates on the subframe, so it wouldnt have an affect.

[ade146]

I had similar problems once but standard height. One camber adjustment at full stretch to get it in spec. It had me looking all over and scratching my head. Full hunter machine with print outs etc. As it happens I was back in there with an unlucky puncture and the boss offered to take a look. Back on the machine and got it all aligned well within adjustment. More pretty pictures from the printer and nowhere near the max adjustment. I suspect like any device that it is only as good as the man using it.

[doughboy]

Agree, it takes a light touch and a constant re-checking to get it all lined up nicely.

Important things like:

Handbrake off (of course)
Steering wheel fixed dead straight
Sliding wheel plates (that the car sits on) must be free and well oiled not filthy and full of grit.

For best results after each adjustment they should roll the car, gently by hand, back and forward a few inches on its slide plates to allow the wheels and bushings to settle again, then re-check.

Lots of operators couldn't give a toss and just take measurements without de-stressing the bushings, so as soon as you drive away the settings will be out.

Road cars have soft bushes, so if they are under abnormal side load when set, then they will move afterwards. On my 335i just pulling on a wheel would make the measurements go way way out due to the flex in the bushes (i had M3 subframe bushes and front arms too) so it's vital that the measurements are taken with the wheel side loads equalised.